Chainsaw recommendations, please ?

[NuggyBuggy]

We have a cottage with about 3-1/2 acres of land.  Some of it is wooded, some of it is clear, with some big maples.  I get a lot of branches and debris that drops on the ground, saplings I'd like to cut back, etc.  I started thinking I could use a chainsaw to clear some of the brush and to break up some of the smaller limbs that we find.  I'm not planning on bringing any big trees down.  I have zero experience with chainsaws, but do have a knowledgeable neighbour who has offered to teach me the basics.

Can anybody recommend a few models I ought to consider ? I find the product lines confusing and am not really sure what features would be important.

p.s. When I first started looking at chainsaws, I was planning on milling some big maples with a chainsaw mill, but was told that I needed a really big saw and a lot of time to make it worthwhile.  So I scrapped that idea.

 

[ajones]

Hi nuggy

At the old folks home close to my house in brittany a chef asked a freind to loan him a chainsaw.which his freind did,showing him how to operate it.
He it still alive but no longer able to work as he sustained some fairly serious facial damage when the chainsaw kicked back.
So if you plan a chainsaw better plan ahead and get some proper training.  [2cents]

 

[tjbier]

I would get:
used: Stihl 026/260, 036/361, Husqvarna 346, 365, Dolmar/Makita 5100

new; Stihl; 211 (not pro grade but a fantastic saw), 261,362, Husqvarna: 346xp maybe 560. Dolmar 5105

These are saws that will last forever if used right and taken care of, remember to always run mix, never straight gas them.

These are all pro grade models, not a clamshell engine design. Clamshells are like the Farmboss 290,310,390,291,311,391.

If you were to get into milling  a Stihl 660 is not a minimum, but recommended.

 

[tjbier]

Hi nuggy

At the old folks home close to my house in brittany a chef asked a freind to loan him a chainsaw.which his freind did,showing him how to operate it.
He it still alive but no longer able to work as he sustained some fairly serious facial damage when the chainsaw kicked back.
So if you plan a chainsaw better plan ahead and get some proper training.  [2cents]

That will happen, but like any tool.. Know how to use it and don't put body parts into moving parts.

 

[NuggyBuggy]

Thanks for the warnings and advice.  If I used a chainsaw I'd probably be wearing a faceshield, chaps, etc.  Truth is, they scare the hell out of me, but I guess a healthy dose of respect is not a bad thing.

 

[semenza]

Hi,

I would second the Stihl MS 026/260. I would be inclined to lean towards new rather than used, you never know what the previous owner may have been doing with it to screw it up. Last thing you need is a chainsaw that is finicky or has problems.  I have the MS260 Pro model with a 16" bar. It should be perfect for your use , very reliable, cuts very well, and starts with no problem.

Also if you are cutting down saplings you may want to look into a trimmer that can be set up with a brush/sapling cutting blade. Stihl makes one it has a special "guard/stop" designed to control the unit when cutting saplings. It can cut flush to the ground. I have it and it works great. Much better than running a chainsaw in the dirt on its side.

If you go to a Stihl dealer (only way they sell) you can ask lots of questions and check out the full line.

Seth

 

[Mauri Motti]

I have a Stihl MS 391 and think it's a great saw. It is very powerful, has a 40 cm blade and consumes 20% less fuel then most other two-stroke engines. It also doesn't vibrate much which is a great pro. I'd recommend you check the specs from the Stihl website.

My 2 €cents

 

[RDMuller]

I love Stihl, but NEVER BUY A CHAINSAW by Price, buy it by availability of GREAT SERVICE.  These things need servicing every once in a while.  This is totally out of the scope of big box stores

 

[Kevin D.]

I have a 15 year old Husqvarna.  Works like a charm.  My dealer friend who sold it to me mentioned a while back that Husq makes a line that is built in Brazil, and is not as good as the models made in Europe.  I had a fellow offering $300 for it, and was tinkering with selling it, as I seldom need one anymore.  The one I have, it's comparable model today is around $750-$800 now (was $550 when I bought it), and the similar Brazil made ones are in the $350-$400 range.  He's been selling them for 25 years+ to the guys who work with them everyday in the bush, so I take his advice as gospel when it comes to chainsaws and generators.  He also feels they are reliably better than Stihl brand.

 

[greg mann]

I would get:
used: Stihl 026/260, 036/361, Husqvarna 346, 365, Dolmar/Makita 5100

new; Stihl; 211 (not pro grade but a fantastic saw), 261,362, Husqvarna: 346xp maybe 560. Dolmar 5105

These are saws that will last forever if used right and taken care of, remember to always run mix, never straight gas them.

These are all pro grade models, not a clamshell engine design. Clamshells are like the Farmboss 290,310,390,291,311,391.

If you were to get into milling  a Stihl 660 is not a minimum, but recommended.

I have one of the original FarmBoss saws, circa 1977 or so. While I agree they are not pro grade saws,mine still runs great. it hasn't seen a lot of use for the last ten years I am now starting to use it a great deal more like I had fornthe first fifteen years that I had it. I keep thinking I should upgrade to a newer and safer design, then I go out to use it and it starts on the first pull almost every time. Not bad for a thirty-four year old tool.

 

[JimRay]

I have not had a problem with any of my Stihl chainsaws in over 20 years... until recently. The new ethanol laced gasoline is problematic for many of the older models. Since switching to high test gas (as recommended by my local dealer) the problems have gone away. I did have my Dad's Stihl upgraded to new fuel lines, etc, that are compatible with the new gasoline formulations. Since then, no problems. This may be both a recommendation to buy a new saw rather than used (no matter the brand, as I understand the fuel problem affects most small engines built more than a few years ago), and a tip to use the high test (93 octane) fuel, again, regardless of the brand you buy.

Good luck,

Jim Ray

 

[TurnagainD]

I'm on board with Stihl saws too.  I have the 260, which is the smallest pro grade saw, and like it a lot.  We cut mostly spruce here in south central Alaska so the local dealer outfits the 260 with a 20" bar and I have bogged down the saw when I've buried the bar.  The 20" bar is great for limbing though.  I believe the 260 is sold with a 16" bar back east to handle the hardwoods.  The 260 is a bit more expensive than the FarmBoss but noticeably lighter. 

Stihl is sort of the Festool of chainsaws.  Husky's are sold in Lowe's now and Stihl's can only be purchased through a dealer that starts every saw before they sell it and can service the saw.  Big pluses for me.

Sounds like you have lots of respect for chain saws, and for good reason.  Lots of people use them safely everyday.

 

[spikfot]

The Husqvarna 346XP is a great saw, used by many pros and homeowners alike. The key to a long lasting chainsaw, or 2-stroke motor, is to buy a larger motor than your typical job will need and run it at 75% throttle, max. Don't hold the throttle wide open at all.  Doing this will double the life of any quality motor.
Any suprise a Sweed would reco' a Husky? Naw...

 

[vicc]

From an Aussie who sometimes uses a chainsaw to cut hardwood redgum and jarrah;  you can't go past a Husky Chainsaw.

 

[Wonderwino]

I've got an old Husqvarna 36 that is a light saw with a 16" bar and great for limbing and cutting smaller logs.  When I'm falling trees or milling with my "Alaskan Mill," I get out the Husky 3120XP  [scared]  with a 24" or 36" bar.  It will go through a 36" cottonwood log in about 20 seconds with a sharp blade.  I like the startup decompression button that makes it easier to pull.

I've got some other Husky yard equipment that has been very reliable. 

 

[NuggyBuggy]

Well, I ended up buying the Stihl 250.  I went in there really planning on buying the 261, based on all the great reviews here and elsewhere.  But the dealer really tried to sell me out of it.  He argued that the 261 was a pro saw, more powerful but heavier, and designed to cut 6-8 hours all day, every day.  Realistically, I highly doubt I will be cutting 6 hours in an entire year.  He also touted the EZ start system (not a big deal for me), and the quick chain adjust on the 250 (seemed like it might be useful for a lazy guy like me). 

The 250 was $429, the 261 $579 (Canadian).  I used the extra $150 towards chaps, helmet, sharpening equipment, and some steel toed boots. 

Does my logic make sense, or should I go back and exchange for the 261 ? I haven't used the saw so I'm pretty sure they'd do an exchange. On one hand, $150 isn't that much money, on the other hand, it represents a 33% more expensive saw.

Anyways - thanks for all the helpful replies guys !

p.s.  the dealer showed me how to use the saw behind the shop.  That is one scary machine.

 

[Tinker]

If you are cutting brush, a bad habit I see of many users is to bring the saw in close when limbing.  not a great plan.  i have know of workers limbing their own limbs that way. always keep the saw away from your body and be careful not to cut against the way the limb wants to bend.  A pinched saw can make a quick job last for a loonnnngggggg time.  Pay attention to what others here have warned you about.

In my experience (observations type/not in my own practice), the two most dangerous tools sold/rented to the inexperienced are chainsaws #1 and extension ladders #2.  Anybody could give me a good arguement that i have them listed in the wrong order.  i have seen bad results with either tool.  Yes, if the two are used together, that can make one dead very suddenly.

You probably have seen experienced woodsmen hold a saw at their hip and yank the chord. Another not a good plan for the inexperienced.  The book says to put it on the ground and hold down with one hand while you pull the chord with the other.  Good plan.  i have been using chainsaws since they first came out to the public.  i started with a 24" Titan that weighed a ton back in the late 40's or early 50's.  nobody taught me how to use it and i made a few very lucky mistooks with that old monster.  I say "lucky mistooks" because the nature of the stupidity could have put me in the hospital or worse.  I did not get a scratch.  That is why i say lucky.  I took those mistooks as mesages from above and did not make same one twice.  I have know others not so lucky.

Just don't hurry and if something seems like it should not be done >>>>>>> DON'T
Tinker

 

[TurnagainD]

I think you made a great purchase.  You have a good idea what you are going to use the saw for and you put the $150 to good use.  I'm sure ou will get years of good service.