Chair repairs and building drawers

[Tim Brennan]

I have wanted to buy a Domino 700 XL for a long time. The 700 has the advantage over the 500 of doing more using the seneca adaptors and the sort of work I want to do with it encompasses external doors, garden furniture, as well as drawers for indoor use. Although the first 2 projects I have lined up are really smaller scale work better suited to the 500, I can't justify buying both machines so the 700 with adapter seems the best option.

Project 1 - Repairing Dining Chairs

As you can see in the photos, the side seat rails have come away from the stile. I previously replaces the dowels with some Unibond  but now they have failed (the dowels might have been pine or something not up to the task).

Some questions...
1. As shown in the photo, the rail and stile aren't perfectly flush. there is a step of about 2-3mm. Is this going to make lining up the domino slots problematic? How is it best to tackle this?
2. The rail is 27mm wide so I am assuming that 8mm dominos are the best size to get. I see that 8mm dominos are sold as 50mm long or as 750mm long rods. The stile being 32mm wide could perhaps take a 30mm deep slot. Would a 50mm long domino be strong enough? Is one large domino better than two or more smaller ones? What is the strongest configuration?
3. Which is the best glue to use?

Project 2 - Plywood Drawers for under stairs

I am going to make some cabinets with drawers on ball bearing runners and made from 18mm plywood. I have done this previously and found it pretty time consuming to fill in all the cavities between the layers prior to painting. Would mdf be better choice?

I am looking to also buy a MFT/3 for this task (I already have a TS 55).

There are many ways to buy dominos. I am thinking of buying an assortment in Systainer (Festool 498899 1060 Piece DOMINO Beechwood Assortment) that comes with a selection of smaller cutters. It seems most economical in the long run that way, right?

Here is my shopping list so far - have I missed anything useful?

Festool 498899 1060 Piece DOMINO Beechwood Assortment
Festool DF700 EQ-Plus 240v Domino XL
Festool 493487 Trim stop
Festool MFT/3
MFT FX set
Seneca Adapter
Bessey BAN700 Band Clamp

 

[sancho57]

Clamping elements would be useful.

 

[John Stevens]

My step-dad was a great furniture repairman, and after working with him on a few jobs I got the idea that repairing furniture can be a lot harder than building it from scratch.  Are you completely opposed to using screws in pocket holes to fix the chairs?  I think it would be very difficult to register a DF700 or DF500 accurately.  (If building from scratch, you’d bore while the pieces were still straight and square, then shape them after boring.). Sorry if this isn’t the answer you were hoping for, but maybe it’ll be useful anyway.

—John

 

[Tim Brennan]

My step-dad was a great furniture repairman, and after working with him on a few jobs I got the idea that repairing furniture can be a lot harder than building it from scratch.  Are you completely opposed to using screws in pocket holes to fix the chairs?  I think it would be very difficult to register a DF700 or DF500 accurately.  (If building from scratch, you’d bore while the pieces were still straight and square, then shape them after boring.). Sorry if this isn’t the answer you were hoping for, but maybe it’ll be useful anyway.

—John

John, thanks for the advice. While I always like an excuse to buy a new Festool, I need to pick the right tool for the job.

I just ordered a kreg k5 pocket hole jig.

Now I am going to make good use of my 3D printer and make a vac port to fit my ct.

Domino will have to wait for another day...

 

[Sparktrician]

I just ordered a kreg k5 pocket hole jig.

Now I am going to make good use of my 3D printer and make a vac port to fit my ct.

If you're talking about making an adapter to fit your CT hose to the Kreg Jig, you might look at this page at Leigh Jigs.  Look under the accessory kit for the Super FMT.  There's a step adapter shown that I have used with my older Kreg Jig.  It joins the 27mm hose to the Kreg Jig without muss or fuss.  Leigh sells them separately, too. 

 

[ear3]

Another cheapo option is to get a 1 1/4 PVC pipe or elbow fitting and hollow out the interior with a dremel or similar tool to make the fit, like in this example:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/membe...y-4-year-old-granddaughter/msg60009/#msg60009

I just ordered a kreg k5 pocket hole jig.

Now I am going to make good use of my 3D printer and make a vac port to fit my ct.

If you're talking about making an adapter to fit your CT hose to the Kreg Jig, you might look at this page at Leigh Jigs.  Look under the accessory kit for the Super FMT.  There's a step adapter shown that I have used with my older Kreg Jig.  It joins the 27mm hose to the Kreg Jig without muss or fuss.  Leigh sells them separately, too.

 

[Tim Brennan]

My step-dad was a great furniture repairman, and after working with him on a few jobs I got the idea that repairing furniture can be a lot harder than building it from scratch.  Are you completely opposed to using screws in pocket holes to fix the chairs?  I think it would be very difficult to register a DF700 or DF500 accurately.  (If building from scratch, you’d bore while the pieces were still straight and square, then shape them after boring.). Sorry if this isn’t the answer you were hoping for, but maybe it’ll be useful anyway.

—John

Would you recommend that I use some carpenters glue as well as the pocket screws?

 

[John Stevens]

Yes, after leveling the broken dowels and scraping away any old glue and finish from the joint area.  Sizing the end grain.  But I’m not a good furniture repairman.  There are probably more than a few readers shaking their heads from side to side at my suggestion of using pocket screws.  (I’ve found that a butt joint that’s pocket-screwed and glued is very strong.  But strong enough for a chair?)

My step dad would have filed or sanded down the broken ends of the dowels and used a razor blade to scrape away any glue and finish where the pieces join. Then he’d disassemble all the joints and re-do them.  He didn’t own a pocket-hole jig.  He’d make new dowel holes.  It was labor intensive and he charged $20 or more per hour back when $20 was worth something, so his clients either had a sentimental attachment to the piece or it was a very expensive piece.  Otherwise it’d be more economical to buy a new piece.

—John

 

[epicxt]

I'd also vote for a more secure option than just glueing and pocket screwing. Re-drill for new dowels at a minimum.

 

[Gregor]

Registering the domino on the stile using pencil marks looks possible.
Making a small shim/wedge from a scrap to clamp on the stile to give you an edge that is parallel to the rail (both the side and the end grain face) would also be a matter of minutes.

 

[John Stevens]

Registering the domino on the stile using pencil marks looks possible.
Making a small shim/wedge from a scrap to clamp on the stile to give you an edge that is parallel to the rail

In which case you might want to consider the DF700 after all.http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/chair-repair-with-domino-connectors/
—John