Chamber bit for MFT holes

Hollatime

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Mar 9, 2020
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I know TSO/UJK has the chamfer hand tool, but would imagine using a cordless trim router would take a lot of the labor out of chamfering like 100 holes.

Looked at some mini chamfer bits and of course there’s all sorts of diameters and degrees, and I’m a bit clueless on which would be ideal. I’m sure someone here has chamfered dog holes with a bit, so a recommendation would be appreciated.

Link to Amana’s selection
https://www.amanatool.com/products/...r-bits-204/miniature-chamfer-router-bits.html
 
I used a 1" diameter counter sink chucked into a C18 drill. It is a single flute, did not think it would work in a router due to balance.

Tom
 
Thanks. I am thinking I’d probably end up butchering my mft holes using a drill, but it certainly seems to be a faster option.

I suppose even with amateur drilling it’s just expanding the top portion so more of the collar would be recessed, but as long as the remaining hole is still on point, the dog will reference accurately right?
 
This is the sort of countersink that will do a good job but if you don't have one and need to get one it may be a bit expensive.
 
Bohdan said:
This is the sort of countersink that will do a good job but if you don't have one and need to get one it may be a bit expensive.

Initially was thinking $50-60 when you said a bit expensive...google showing more like $150 haha. That’s quite an expensive bit to chamfer some holes!

Will see if the industrial supply place has a more economical version since fairly light duty use age. It looks very similar to the Festool countersink/bore bits with the cross hole.

Thanks
 
I just finished two tops with 250 holes! I used this router bit to add the Chamfer. I even did both sides to also clean up the underside. It only took 15 mins.

I tested the depth on a scrap of MDF and made sure UJKs flush Parf dog was flush with the surface.

476e7f5179469c13f3d125e5ca5f38cb.jpg


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Dusty nailed it, that’s how I do mine.
Check the depth on some scrap, so that the chamfered collar seats flush, lock the depth, and away you go.

It really is very easy, do it with a router, not a drill
 
I have the Brit. manual MFT chamfer tool. Two quick turns produces a perfect chamfer with zero risk to the MFT top. I make chamfers as I need them.

Shipping the tool from the U.K. was no more than within the U.S.
 
I managed to score a 1.5" Weldan counter sink like the one Bohdan mebtioned for $65.00 off EBay.  I needed the larger one as I made my MFT extension from 1 1/8" solid core doors I had.
 
Hi everyone, I must have missed a post, what's the value of creating a chamfer on your MFT table holes?

thanks,
Rich
 
Rich Kline said:
Hi everyone, I must have missed a post, what's the value of creating a chamfer on your MFT table holes?

thanks,
Rich

Two come to mind as of now. One it allows for certain bench dogs (parf super dog, probably other aftermarket dogs with similar interchangeable/adjustable collars). Second is keeps the hole closer to spec long term by reducing wear on the rim from dogs/clamps/material handling.

I’m wanting to try out some super dogs for the flush fit, I usually have kerf lines all over my top long before any concerns of dog hole preservation. Going to try to keep things more localized on this one, for now at least.

I also think the chamfer gives the tops an aesthetic boost. Some subconscious encouragement for me not to just slice this one up as well

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hollatime said:
Rich Kline said:
Hi everyone, I must have missed a post, what's the value of creating a chamfer on your MFT table holes?

thanks,
Rich

Two come to mind as of now. One it allows for certain bench dogs (parf super dog, probably other aftermarket dogs with similar interchangeable/adjustable collars). Second is keeps the hole closer to spec long term by reducing wear on the rim from dogs/clamps/material handling.

I’m wanting to try out some super dogs for the flush fit, I usually have kerf lines all over my top long before any concerns of dog hole preservation. Going to try to keep things more localized on this one, for now at least.

I also think the chamfer gives the tops an aesthetic boost. Some subconscious encouragement for me not to just slice this one up as well

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks!  Does anyone have any pictures of these completed boards?
 
Dusty.Tools said:
I just finished two tops with 250 holes! I used this router bit to add the Chamfer. I even did both sides to also clean up the underside. It only took 15 mins.

I tested the depth on a scrap of MDF and made sure UJKs flush Parf dog was flush with the surface.

476e7f5179469c13f3d125e5ca5f38cb.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's a 34mm wide bit, any idea if there is a smaller one that would require you to go around the hole instead of hitting it once?  Seems like this one from the OP would be more appropriate?  Thoughts?
https://www.amanatool.com/mr0108-ca...nk-with-mini-3-16-dia-lower-ball-bearing.html

 
I would say, somewhere in between. The big one is a bit overkill, but that tiny one is suspect as far as the bearings go. The balls in those things are like pepper dust. In a case where the pilot needs to be that small, ok and sparingly.
Just an ordinary 1/4" shank 5/8"-3/4" 45 degree bit will do fine. The one I have came from Rockler, but all of the main brands make them. Nothing special
 
presidentsdad said:
That's a 34mm wide bit, any idea if there is a smaller one that would require you to go around the hole instead of hitting it once?  Seems like this one from the OP would be more appropriate?  Thoughts?

You adjust the bit so only a small part of the cutting edge is touching the work and you go around the hole.  That's what the bearing if for.
 
Some tops that are thicker than 3/4” will chamfer the holes to allow the clamps to drop in. I’m thinking the depth of the chamfer on the backside is deeper than normal to allow for clearance.
 
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