Chamfer bit for MFT holes

AndrewG

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Joined
Nov 1, 2012
Messages
160
Hey all,

I’m looking to get a chamfer 45 degree router bit to chamfer my 20mm holes.

Would the one linked below work? My only concern is that it wont fit. I understand I can get a smaller one but I’d get more use for other stuff with this one.
https://routercutter.co.uk/whiteside-2306

Many thanks
 
At the risk of completely dodging your question, this is what I use to chamfer the 20mm holes in my worktable.  It's not a router bit, but it is easy to use.

UJK Chamfer Tool

I also use this to ream out any of the 20mm holes that might be a bit tight after applying the hard wax oil to the worktable top.

UJK Parf System Reamer for 20mm Holes
 
Andrew as long as the bearing fits inside the hole it will work. You only need 1-2mm of cutter sitting proud of your router base.

RMW
 
I would use something smaller personally. not saying it wont work but thats one big ass bit if you need it for another project or something then fine but its way overkill for chamfering a mft top and sorry but I have to disagree with mikege I had that tool and a chamfer bit in a trim router worked waaaaaaaaaaaaay better. Not only was it faster to use the router but less work and I got a much cleaner chamfer.  I actually dont have one good thing to say about that ujk tool.
 
I have the Whiteside 1/16” round over bit ($30.00 from Amazon.com. and Holbren).

I find it immensely useful for uniformly breaking the edges of cut lumber.  I used to just use sandpaper, but this is quicker and more uniform. 

I would not have the energy to round over all the holes on my MFT style table tops, but if I felt a need for it, this is the bit I would use.

Note:  This bit does not have a ball bearing pilot so you need to keep the router moving or it will mar the finish. (Easily sanded out when it occurs.)

Whiteside Router Bits 1978 Round Over Bit with Small Pilot 1/16-Inch Radius 3/8-Inch Large Diameter and 7/16-Inch Cutting Length

1978-N_grande.jpg

 
I took a Weldon 82 degree countersink and press fit a 20 mm pilot to the end.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

I placed it in a Woodpeckers drill stand, set the depth stop limit and I like using it a lot.

[attachimg=3]

It produces very nice, clean concentric countersinks.

[attachimg=4]
 

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TSO sells the chamfer tool I use. Perfect. Hand powered. Stick it in the hole and give it a quick twist or two and you are done.
 
Get a 1/4" shank bit.  Steering the damn bearing into that hole (by tipping) is annoying and I've missed several times.  I can't imagine a 12mm bearing being remotely fun.
 
afish said:
Not only was it faster to use the router but less work and I got a much cleaner chamfer.  I actually dont have one good thing to say about that ujk tool.

I thought it was just me.  Maybe it was crappy MDF on my DIY top but that chamfer tool was tearing out horrendously.
 
Birdhunter said:
TSO sells the chamfer tool I use. Perfect. Hand powered. Stick it in the hole and give it a quick twist or two and you are done.

Unfortunately doesn't work well for plywood. Ended up with a Ryobi cordless router that's now dedicated to a chamfer bit. Surprising how often I reach for it now that it's always ready to go, most everything in the shop is chamfered now...

RMW
 
afish said:
... and sorry but I have to disagree with mikege I had that tool and a chamfer bit in a trim router worked waaaaaaaaaaaaay better. Not only was it faster to use the router but less work and I got a much cleaner chamfer.  I actually dont have one good thing to say about that ujk tool.

Different strokes for different folks.  [smile]  I used the UJK chamfer tool successfully on my 200-hole Valchromat top and three 100-hole MDF tops for friends.  I can confirm that it does NOT work on plywood tops.
 
I might try that.  Of course the solid bearing is much smaller an will get in tighter corners.

I got th bit to break the edges on shaker cabinet doors and it works well for that.  I have learned not to allow the bit stay in a fixed location as it will leave a burn mark.  A problem if you are staining, but a non-issue if you are painting.

But the bearing bit is just a few dollars more than the Whiteside bit, so a good deal.

Note:  In recent years I have limited my bit purchases to Whiteside and Freud. Bot seem to make superior bits.  Freud has much more upscale packaging. By comparison, Whiteside “cheapskate-out”.
 
Richard/RMW said:
now that it's always ready to go, most everything in the shop is chamfered now...

"When you have a chamfer bit sitting in a router 24/7, every corner you encounter looks too sharp..."
 
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