Clear coat for aluminum

[koenbro]

I am downsizing my shop from 2 car slots to one, and in the process, had to get rid of my dedicated router table. So I took a 5/8" 6061 aluminum plate and cut out on the CNC a shape to accommodate my Jessem router lift that will fit into a Bosch contractor Table Saw. I had to use Aluminum for the table because that's the most I can cut on my CNC, but it came out great, it's solid, level with the lift,  and will likely stay flat. I welded up a dust box from 1/16" alum and used an old hose connector to make an adapter for my 4" dust extractor; I used a Rockler dust box in the past and with a 4" suction it was virtually dust free. When the router is not used, it will sit on shelf in a storage room.

My questions is: how can I finish the aluminum so that black discoloration from it does not transfer to the wood? Is there some water based epoxy or any other clear finish I can spray?

 

[koenbro]

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[deepcreek]

Very nice job!

I have sprayed aluminum with Deft rattle can lacquer to keep it from oxidizing but that is a build finish and might wear off with use.

Perhaps Boeshield T-9 would do the trick.

 

[Cheese]

The problem with aluminum is getting the paint to adhere to it because after cleaning/abrading the surface, it immediately builds an oxide layer. In the past a chromate primer was mandatory, however there are now self-etching primers available.

I stumbled upon this paint a couple of years ago made specifically for aluminum boats, I haven't tried it though. If you decide to use it, check back and let us know how well it works. [smile]
https://www.jamestowndistributors.c...MI-LOtzLKx6gIVDdbACh3a9w7jEAQYAiABEgLOHvD_BwE

Nice job by the way on both the table and the dust collector box.  [big grin]

 

[AstroKeith]

I'd find a local anodising shop. Last time I had a piece that size it cost me £5 to get anodised and died black.

 

[DeformedTree]

Rustoleum makes a Primer for Aluminum

I've used it and stuff is holding up just fine.

You can also go down the real proper path and alodine it,  you can get jugs of the stuff and apply it. I've never done this, and not sure how hard it is to do at home/not professional.    Looks like Henkel has stuff you can buy.

 

[rvieceli]

there appear to be a few anodizers in Phoenix. I'd try one those operations and see if they will do it. Obviously you'll be a small fish in a big pond, but many times if you are nice, don't have a rush deadline etc etc. they will accommodate you.

Ron

 

[koenbro]

Wow, thanks for all the answers! I didn’t even think to anodize it but it sounds great and I am going to call a few shops come Monday. Will show the result

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jerry Ostashevskyi]

Since its a surface that you will rub material against a lot, do a hard anodizing, Type III. Color does not matter obviously. Usually Hard clear is the cheapest because no dye involved. Just take into consideration that it adds about 2 mil, or 0.002" to surface thickness( or 0.004" on a diameter). If you have some very tight fittings, you might need to ask them to mask it ( shops will do it if asked). Normally, if it is a through hole - no biggie with clearance, but with threads you might encounter an issue of them becoming too tight.

Good luck!
Jerry

 

[koenbro]

Very helpful, thanks. I tapped some holes to attach the dust box, will ask that they be masked.

 

[ben_r_]

I'd find a local anodising shop. Last time I had a piece that size it cost me £5 to get anodised and died black.

This! Get that thing anodized! You did a good job there man! Anodizing would be the proper finishing touch!

 

[Packard]

The most fool-proof finish is anodizing.  Anodizing does not coat the aluminum, it penetrates the aluminum.  It not only imparts a tough finish, it hardens the surface and makes it resist scratching.  The longer the part is held in the anodizing tank the deeper is the penetration and the greater is the hardening effect.

This part is small and light enough to ship by UPS anywhere, so send out sketches to a few anodizing companies to see what they would charge.  There is probably a minimum lot charge of $50.00 to $150.00 depending upon the vendor.  A single piece would fall in that minimum lot charge.  If you can find a local vendor and you can walk in you might get a better all-cash deal.