Compelling reasons to buy MFK700 Edge Router in addition to OF1010 Router?

[keithwwalker]

I'm already on the road to purchase a 1010 router for LR32 system hole drilling.

I do want a machine to slot mill (groove) pieces however.  This will be a major use for the router I purchase:

The narrow edge of planks (think 1x4 and 1x6's) to take a groove for 1/8 inch plywood
Face of plywood near the edge to take a groove for 1/8 plywood (think back panel for a shelving unit)

Is there a compelling reason to have an MFK700 to do this work?  Can the 1010 router do just as well for less cost?  I see they take the same arbors.

Most concerned that the parallel edge attachment of the OF1010 is stable enough for running down a long length of plank and not shift.

Any help is appreciated.

What are the advantages of the MFK700?  I doubt I will be doing edge banding.

Thanks
kw

 

[woodferret]

up/down microadjust that doesn't require replunging.

 

[Packard]

My DeWalt compact router works with the Festool track to make dadoes, grooves and rabbets.

TSO says that they are coming up with an adapter to allow the DeWalt plunge base to work with the 32mm spacing holes.

I would note that for many years I made rabbets and dadoes and grooves without a track system and relying on the router edge adapter or with just a straight edge clamped to the workpiece.

The track is easier to use, though I have not used it often enough to say it is better.

 

[jonnyrocket]

If you’re asking for us to provide compelling reasons, most of them will be for edge banding.  Aside from edge banding, think of it as a compact non-plunging router.

For the slot milling work you are describing, the 1010 would be my first choice. The MFK700 is a great machine for what it was designed to do. But as a general use compact router, it does have some limitations that aren’t super obvious until you use it. For example, if you are using the horizontal base, you are limited to very specific router bit lengths. Festool has several available, but you can’t just use any “off the shelf” bit, if you want to use it horizontally. Also, depending on the kit you buy, the horizontal base holds the router at an angle. This is genius when using it for trimming edge banding. But in other scenarios it isn’t ideal. You can get a 0 degree horizontal base for the router, if you need it. So be sure to pay attention to that when purchasing so you know what you are getting.

But all that said, you can do what you are talking about doing with an MFK700. You would need to buy the edge guide with it.  But I probably would use the 1010 if you want it to ride a track.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

I’d agree with the above. Most of the hardcore 700 fans on here use it principally for edgebanding - and for that type of work it’s pretty much unsurpassed. It’s always struck me as being the kind of machine which was designed to do one job exceptionally well.

For your applications - face cuts close to the edge of a board are easily done using a 1010 and its parallel fence. Grooves in plank edges are best done by standing several planks upright on their edges, and clamping them together so that you have a wider surface to run the router base along without it wobbling around. The groove position is once again set using the parallel fence.

EDIT = tip of the day !! When you groove your plank edges to insert your 1/8” panels, offset the groove so it isn’t exactly central. It doesn’t have to be as offset as the picture below - but the reason is so that when you come to assemble your panel into the grooved frame, you can quickly orient the frame components so that the grooves will line up perfectly with each other in all of your corners. If you try and centralise the groove, the tiniest error will result in slightly mismatched corner joints, along with difficulty in slotting your panel into the groove to create a tight, seamless result. You’re welcome  [smile]

Kevin

[attachimg=1]

 

[luvmytoolz]

I think trying to choose between a 700 or 1010, is a sure sign the 1010 will be the far better and general purpose choice that will serve most of your needs.

If you had a pressing need to do a lot of edging, the 700 would be the go to router, but will not serve for general needs instead of a 1010.

 

[sancho57]

1010 is a general use router where the 700 is as trim/edge router.

I have 3 FT routers 700,1010,2200,

they all have specific purposes all are useful to me in my shop

 

[keithwwalker]

Thanks for the tips!

I have seen with the 2200 that the parallel fence can be doubled up so that there is a fence on both sides.  That gives some more stability, but the fences aren't that deep.  I think the 1010 can do the same trick.

Sure, the Festool routing aid is better designed for edge slot operations, but is it $400 better?!?  Stacking planks for more edge bearing area is a nice tip.

Offset grooves is a neat strategy, but one of my projects is doing an old flip up garage door and the 1x6's have a full bullnose profile (to prevent rain water from pooling), so I don't think I could do an offset at my skill level.

Grooves in plank edges are best done by standing several planks upright on their edges, and clamping them together so that you have a wider surface to run the router base along without it wobbling around. The groove position is once again set using the parallel fence.

EDIT = tip of the day !! When you groove your plank edges to insert your 1/8” panels, offset the groove so it isn’t exactly central. It doesn’t have to be as offset as the picture below - but the reason is so that when you come to assemble your panel into the grooved frame, you can quickly orient the frame components so that the grooves will line up perfectly with each other in all of your corners. If you try and centralise the groove, the tiniest error will result in slightly mismatched corner joints, along with difficulty in slotting your panel into the groove to create a tight, seamless result. You’re welcome  [smile]

Kevin

[attachimg=1]

 

[woodferret]

Offset as [member=75780]woodbutcherbower[/member] says.  You can be centerline-ish, but a hair's offset and as long as your fence always references the front face you should be fine.

Sedge has a long-ass shaker panel teaching session that shows the MFK700 doing this, although you can do it with the OF1100 as well
http://www.youtube.com/watch?t=722&v=9Ovz8oYjbgs

Plus side of the MFK700 in this operation though is the offset base gives you quite a lot more stability than the OF1010.  There used to be a table widener you could buy for the 1010, but I haven't seen it in a while.

Should you decide to do it on a bullnose profile, the technique still works.  The only downside to using the MFK700 is that it isn't a plunge and the standard fence is a bit short.  Somewhere on his channel he replaces the fence black pads with a longer single rail for end-to-end operations like this.

 

[Cheese]

There used to be a table widener you could buy for the 1010, but I haven't seen it in a while.

I’ve been trying to locate one for the last 5 years…seems to be as rare as unicorn tears.

 

[mwolczko]

I do want a machine to slot mill (groove) pieces however.  This will be a major use for the router I purchase:

The narrow edge of planks (think 1x4 and 1x6's) to take a groove for 1/8 inch plywood
Face of plywood near the edge to take a groove for 1/8 plywood (think back panel for a shelving unit)

I might be the odd one out on this, but I’d never use a router for this. I’d use a table saw.  Way faster.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

[member=79734]keithwwalker[/member] If you’re not confident about edge-grooving a moulded profile - lay the plank down, place your router on the flat face, and machine your grooves using a bearing-guided grooving cutter. There are a vast number of sizes available, many of which come with interchangeable bearings to change the depth of cut. The offset I recommended is then achieved by adjusting the plunge depth.

[attachimg=1]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I'm a big fan of the MFK700, owning and using 2 of them. My first one is used with the zero-degree base, exclusively for wood edgebanding. Seeing that, and thinking I was missing out on it's versatility, I bought a second one. This keeps me from having to breakdown the set-up. I use the other one for a variety of things, horizontal and vertical, however it's not a do-all thing. There are limitations like opening size of the base and a lack of plunge feature.
My case may seem a bit excessive, but it is in a professional setting, where speed and convenience matter.
The OF1010 is more of an all-around router. It can be used in a horizontal configuration (with additional accessories) but it is not nearly as simple as the MFK700. For occasional or minimal use, it would do the job though.
Bottom line, if I already had an OF1010, I would definitely follow that up with an MFK700.

As far as frame and panel doors, I have always done the centered approach, on the router table. Making the cuts from both sides of each part forces the grooves and matching tongues to be centered. It does take 2 passes for each part, but it's not a big deal. The few extra seconds spent there are saved on the other end by the parts being universal. I cut the grooves in all of the parts first, then the matching tongues, again from both sides. This allows you to "sneak up" on the fit.
On MDF doors, I glue the panels in place, strengthening the whole door. On doors where I let the panel float, that strength is not there, so I put a Domino in the tongue and groove joint.

 

[Sparktrician]

I use my MFK 700 mostly for trimming laminates and edge banding.  The zero degree base is great for getting a precise edge in the vertical laminates so that the horizontal laminates join very snugly, with no gap.  Finishing of the vertical-to-horizontal joint is done with the Amana 47150 No-File bit.  If I'm doing wood edging, as in bookcase shelves, I prefer the 1.5 degree base followed by the Amana 47150 with the vertical base.  YMMV... 

 

[Coen]

There used to be a table widener you could buy for the 1010, but I haven't seen it in a while.

I’ve been trying to locate one for the last 5 years…seems to be as rare as unicorn tears.

Yes, past perfect tense. Festool TV-OF1000, #488756

I always wanted one, but found it to be too expensive. As it turns out, an MFK 700 EQ-Plus is even more expensive. But now that I have it, I won't chase the table widener anymore.

Thanks for the tips!

I have seen with the 2200 that the parallel fence can be doubled up so that there is a fence on both sides.  That gives some more stability, but the fences aren't that deep.  I think the 1010 can do the same trick.

Sure, the Festool routing aid is better designed for edge slot operations, but is it $400 better?!?  Stacking planks for more edge bearing area is a nice tip.

Offset grooves is a neat strategy, but one of my projects is doing an old flip up garage door and the 1x6's have a full bullnose profile (to prevent rain water from pooling), so I don't think I could do an offset at my skill level.

Grooves in plank edges are best done by standing several planks upright on their edges, and clamping them together so that you have a wider surface to run the router base along without it wobbling around. The groove position is once again set using the parallel fence.

EDIT = tip of the day !! When you groove your plank edges to insert your 1/8” panels, offset the groove so it isn’t exactly central. It doesn’t have to be as offset as the picture below - but the reason is so that when you come to assemble your panel into the grooved frame, you can quickly orient the frame components so that the grooves will line up perfectly with each other in all of your corners. If you try and centralise the groove, the tiniest error will result in slightly mismatched corner joints, along with difficulty in slotting your panel into the groove to create a tight, seamless result. You’re welcome  [smile]

Kevin

[attachimg=1]

Apparently someone found out you can use the OF-2200 parallel guide on the OF-1010 as well;https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/festool-of1010-edge-guide/

That routing aid used to be sold in Systainer btw.

 

[keithwwalker]

OF-2200 parallel guide, thanks I will research that a bit more.

Another stupid question, the Festool Edging plate, it seems like its adjustment range is only just for edge trimming and can not do an edge centering rout, am I correct?  It also seems like not enough bearing area to keep the router from being stable.

 

[Coen]

OF-2200 parallel guide, thanks I will research that a bit more.

If you already have it, it's nice to use it that way. But I wouldn't just buy one for this use case. Better to get the real OF-FH, a DIY version or a 3rd party equivalent.

Another stupid question, the Festool Edging plate, it seems like its adjustment range is only just for edge trimming and can not do an edge centering rout, am I correct?  It also seems like not enough bearing area to keep the router from being stable.

Yeah, the adjustment range isn't large enough to get the shaft to align to the middle of e.g. a door

As for stability; there are a lot of members that love. It seems awkward to me too, that (and the lack of a use-case for me) is what has kept me off from buying it. I've never tried it though. I think if you flip the door on it's side it's not that bad.

I must say that my hands aren't the most stable either, so I tend to avoid things that require 100% stable hands to begin with. Hence my love of Torx-headed screws.

 

[smorgasbord]

I know this is an older thread, but Sedge just came out with a video on the MFK700 that's worth a watch if you're interested in it:

While I've been accused of not appreciating Festool's system when it comes to MFT and rail clamps, I do agree that the MFK700 is a prime example of Festool's system greatness.

 

[usernumber1]

I use a lipping planer instead; a lot more straight forward. only does edges and edge banding of course

mfk seems very fiddly especially if you don't use it often?

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I use a lipping planer instead; a lot more straight forward. only does edges and edge banding of course

mfk seems very fiddly especially if you don't use it often?

It's really not, because of the repeatability.  Say you have the horizontal base set up perfectly, but need to change to the vertical base, for some other purpose. All that is required is to swap the bits and bases, then use it as needed. As long as you don't change anything on the horizontal base, and return to the original bit, the horizontal base will go right back on perfectly. It will cut exactly as it did before.