Considering an OF 1400 - opinions please

[clev1066]

I have only had the chance to look at a unit at the local dealer. It seems to be a nice router, but one just never knows until he tries it for himself. Unfortunately, that is not really an option. I've been using a Bosch 1617evs two base kit as well as an older Porter Cable 690 for several years now. I did pick up a used OF 1000 last summer, but since I only have one 1/4" bit; it has only been used for 1/4" roundovers. That is to say, I've never got the chance to use the OF 1000 for any type of plunge work.

The only thing I don't like about the Bosch kit is that I have to take my hand off of the grip to operate the switch. There are a lot of times I'd like to stop the bit before releasing the router. I'd also like to try cutting grooves and dados on the Festool track. I use to use a radial arm saw for those tasks, but I sold it last year.

So what are the things I would both like and dislike about the OF 1400? How well does it work for grooves with the Festool rail. Would it be feasible to set it up for fluting with the rail, or do I need to stick with my old jig? If I did get the 1400, is there any reason to keep the OF 1000 around? Are there any other applications for the 1400 that I might not have considered?

Thanks for the input guys!

 

[tbellemare]

The OF 1400 is probably the most versatile of all of the Festool routers.

It comes stock with 3 collets - 1/4", 8mm, and 1/2" and can handily swing most bits that fit in those collets. It is ultra smooth and powerful.

The trigger is on the elongated handle and the plunge lock on the other. It has great dust collection and can be used with all of the Festool configurations that I can think of.

• Guide rail - your imagination is the limit
• Trim router attachments - it can be used horizontally, which means you can trim with it and as Brice pointed out, cut sliding dovetails
• Copy set, which has bearings that can be used to ride against an edge and make any bit have a bearing
• MFS for on-the-fly templates
• VS 600 for joinery
• LR 32 for Euro cabinetry

It's the router I use most and I have them all.

Tom

 

[mwhafner]

I think there are a lot of owners of both the 1000 (or 1010) that would recommend that you keep both.  I don't own, nor have I used, the 1000 or 1010.  Saying that, I can't really offer an opinion regarding the smaller offerings.

I do have the 1400, and highly recommend it.  It is the best and most capable router I have ever used.  The only task that it doesn't excel at is edge trimming, and even then it is better than most others.  

I have several other routers that I use on a regular basis, but they tend to be dedicated to a specific task or jig.

If I had to pick just one handheld router, it would be the 1400.  

 

[tbellemare]

The MFK 700 is the Edge Trimming King.

Tom

 

[Pete Pedisich]

Why not give a look at the Bosch 2.25hp plunge router - it's got the trigger on the handle.

I have the OF1400, and would heartily recommend it for all plunging tasks, it is a pleasure to use. But I happen to like the handle config very much, some don't...

 

[clev1066]

I guess another silly question I have is to buy it now or wait to see if Festool has any fall offerings in the US? I've grown accustomed to Festool pricing, but if they will be offering an accessory or such in the near future; it would be worth the wait.

 

[sw1211]

I guess another silly question I have is to buy it now or wait to see if Festool has any fall offerings in the US? I've grown accustomed to Festool pricing, but if they will be offering an accessory or such in the near future; it would be worth the wait.

Their fall promos are out and there aren't any associated with the 1400, who knows b/w now and the annual price increase if there will be any.  Maybe that will be their promo for 2010, no price increases. 

 

[Dan Clermont]

The OF 1400 is king on the guide rails!

One hand on the plunge handle, the other on the Guide stop and you will find it very comfortable when doing Dado's / Sliding Dovetails.

I highly recommend the Hard Fiber Base Runner (Item #492574) cause it is the same thickness as the guide rail and far superior to the footie which comes with the guide stop IMO

Dan Clermont

 

[mwhafner]

I highly recommend the Hard Fiber Base Runner (Item #492574) cause it is the same thickness as the guide rail and far superior to the footie which comes with the guide stop IMO

I have to second Dan's recommendation here.  The add-on base is far superior to using the foot.  It may be the best and one of the most used Festool accessories I have purchased.

 

[Peter Hamilton-Scott]

The last thing you do is come to this forum for an impartial review of the 1400. So I'll give mine: the 1400 is a fantastic router.

I like its low weight and find it much easier to use than my Dewalt 625. Once you put it on the guide rail you've kicked the 1400 into an even higher league. I did some test cuts to see if I could do fluting. I could and the results were very impressive. Straight as straight can be and the distance between the cuts was bang on the money as well. I'm only a hobbyist so I can't punt the 1400 in a major league site review but I'm quite convinced the 1400 is among the best routers you can get. Keep the other one. You can never have too many Festools in your armoury.

 

[Bob Marino]

I think you have gotten great advice here (as usual). I second Tom's statement about the 1400 being Festool's most versatile router - it allows the usage of the 1/2 bits.
Before the 1400 was released years ago, the fact that the 1010 (model 1000 then) didn't accept 1/2" bits was very often a deal killer. There was an overwhelming demand (and initial sales of the 1400 verified it) for Festool to offer such a router. The OF 2000 (Festool's largest router at hat time) just wasn't the most practical tool for everyday routing.
  Having said all that, I'd still keep the 1010 and perhaps get some 1/4" or even 8 mm bits for edge work. IMHO, the 1000/1010 is perfect/most ergonomic /most comfortable/best suited for those applications over any other router, including the 1400.

Bob

 

[Jim Becker]

I had the opportunity to play with an OF1400 just prior to them being released in the US, thanks to Mr. Marino and Christian. It was love at first chips. The OF1400 is my "go to" router much of the time with my OF1010 getting lighter duty tasks. I still really like my Dewalt DW618, but tend to use it for dedicated tasks at this point for convenience, or where a very low center of gravity, such as dovetailing, is of benefit.

No real complaints on the OF1400 to-date.

 

[butzla]

I have both. My only complaint on the 1010 is the limited collet.  Be nice to use 1/2" bits.  Not having them in front of me right now, makes me wonder.  (directed to all Festool reps) would it be impossible to make a 1/2" collet for the 1010?

 

[Jesse Cloud]

I have the 1400 and the 1010 as well as the Bosch 1617 you mentioned.

I use the 1400 90% of the time, the 1010 when I need a smaller router and the 1617 for one jig that was built for it and I'm too lazy to convert to Festool.

Good advice about the accessory sole - or you can make your own.

I use the 1400 mainly for mortising - does a great job, almost no cleanup at the end of the day.

And the ratcheting collet is a total hoot!

Interesting enough, I have a shop made sysport for all my festools, except the two I use almost every day - the ts55 and the of1400 which I just leave out and ready.  No regrets here.

 

[Bob Marino]

I have both. My only complaint on the 1010 is the limited collet.  Be nice to use 1/2" bits.  Not having them in front of me right now, makes me wonder.  (directed to all Festool reps) would it be impossible to make a 1/2" collet for the 1010?

I am not sure if it would be possible or not (I suppose it may be) to make a 1/2" collect for the 1010, BUT the 1000/1010  was never designed for 1/2" bits. Now, I know there are smaller router than the 1010 that can accomodate 1/2" bits, but Festool designs tools for the pro/heavy usage and I am thinking that  they wanted to optimize the design and motor for 8mm and 1/4" bits and design the larger routers for 1/2" (and smaller) bits.

Bob

 

[clev1066]

Outstanding! Rarely have I had such a universal response to a question of this nature.

Indeed, I will be adding the OF 1400 to the shop ASAP. I was already on the edge, but the responses here have pushed me hopelessly over! Besides, I really need another router. As it stands now, I share my Bosch 1617evs with the router table and a JessemFX lift. Not that I do production work, but I really just don't like taking it out of the table. The PC690 is set up for my dovetail jig, and I've never used it for anything else and that's the way I'd like to keep it. Considering the possibility of using the 1400 with the FS rails adds to the usability and options, something I couldn't gain with any other router.

I'll have to add the accessories in time, as budget is always a consideration; but that just gives me something to look forward to. I may go as far as to sell my antique Powermatic wood/metal bandsaw to get in the game sooner. Besides, I have other antique bandsaws, and I don't work with metal at all.

Thanks for all the input and suggestions. I'm sure I'll love the 1400 and the added versatility.

 

[Aegwyn11]

Off topic, but....regarding the question about 1/2" on the OF1000/1010, would you actually get any real benefit? Let me explain my reasoning...most people say that 1/2" is better because of something along the lines of "the bigger shaft enables the bit to take more abuse". Really, how many 1/4" shafts have competent people snapped during normal usage? If you're using Festool, odds are you know how to use (and not abuse) tools. I view 1/2" shafts as necessary when trying to swing larger bits because of the increased forces that you're putting on the shaft by swinging said larger bit. My point here is that the OF1000/1010 doesn't have the necessary power to swing these larger bits anyway...

I've also seen people say that 1/2" is better because they are more resistant to chatter than 1/4" bits....I'd question why you're getting chatter in the first place (crappy router, dull bit, etc).

1/2" bits that are smaller diameter (small dovetail bits, etc) become simply a convenience thing for me...I'd rather only have a 1/2" collet on the router in my table than have to mess with changing collets on that thing, if I can get around it.

ON topic...I love my OF1400! The fiber base idea is awesome...One of the few things I've been frustrated with my OF1400 was the crappy foot that came with the rail attachment kit. Problem solved! The router is so well thought out its amazing...makes it VERY easy to use once you learn how it wants to be used. Works VERY well with the guide rails (minus the previously mentioned crappy foot).

One other thing....if you don't have any other Festools that use the guide rail (meaning you'd have to purchase the guide rail just for the OF1400), you should look at the MFS system. I wish I had....I don't have one of the track saws or MFT, so I spent nearly $200 on the guide rail kit and guide rail for the router. If I had realized some of the stuff you can do with the MFS at the time, I probably would have went ahead and spent the money on that instead. I think both the guide rail and MFS have their place, but the MFS is probably a lot more versatile for use with the router.

 

[RogerF]

I highly recommend the Hard Fiber Base Runner (Item #492574) cause it is the same thickness as the guide rail and far superior to the footie which comes with the guide stop IMO

I have to second Dan's recommendation here.  The add-on base is far superior to using the foot.  It may be the best and one of the most used Festool accessories I have purchased.

Do you add that runner to the existing base and run the router completely off the rail or cut it in two and mount half of it to the overhanging edge of the router base?
The OF 1400 was my first Festool. It sets up quickly and is very accurate. The Rep who demonstrated it to me cut a dado with the rail by first plunging into the board near the edge rather than cutting straight in.  The stopped dado greatly improved the dust collection and then he cut the edge last.
There were many "ah ha" moments with this tool. The ratcheting collet, the clamp locks both stanchions, tool-less insert attachments, guide rail compatibility, good dust collection, LR32 system....Great tool.
I'd like to see some of the innovations on the OF2200 like tool-less base changes brought to this category of router.

 

[Dan Clermont]

I highly recommend the Hard Fiber Base Runner (Item #492574) cause it is the same thickness as the guide rail and far superior to the footie which comes with the guide stop IMO

I have to second Dan's recommendation here.  The add-on base is far superior to using the foot.  It may be the best and one of the most used Festool accessories I have purchased.

Do you add that runner to the existing base and run the router completely off the rail or cut it in two and mount half of it to the overhanging edge of the router base?
The OF 1400 was my first Festool. It sets up quickly and is very accurate. The Rep who demonstrated it to me cut a dado with the rail by first plunging into the board near the edge rather than cutting straight in.  The stopped dado greatly improved the dust collection and then he cut the edge last.
There were many "ah ha" moments with this tool. The ratcheting collet, the clamp locks both stanchions, tool-less insert attachments, guide rail compatibility, good dust collection, LR32 system....Great tool.
I'd like to see some of the innovations on the OF2200 like tool-less base changes brought to this category of router.

You attach the fiber base to the bottom of the router and run the router completely off the rails (just off the rails). You could possibley cut some of the fiber base off but probably not more then an inch .

The fiber base also prevents the router from tipping when working close to a corner on your work piece.

Dan Clermont

 

[jvsteenb]

I've also seen people say that 1/2" is better because they are more resistant to chatter than 1/4" bits....I'd question why you're getting chatter in the first place (crappy router, dull bit, etc).

Hello Aegwyn,

My opinions of the OF1010 and the fact it doesn't take 1/2" bits are well pointed out in the thread on router bits in this same section.
In short: I regret it, but fully understand it. It wouldn't make sense, and way too often it would lack power as well.

I don't think that a bit takes abuse much better for having a 1/2" shank either, although the difference between 1/4" and 1/2" is substantially bigger then the 8mm / 12mm difference I have to deal with.

But on the subject of chatter, I beg to differ.

Chatter is basically the occurrence of an oscillation, or resonance in the system, while cutting.

I'm cutting about a thousand corners here, so bear with me, and please don't shoot me for oversimplificating things....

Any resonance will need two parameters to occur: A resonance frequency ( the frequency at wich the system likes to swing ) and energy input.
The required energy to get a resonator system to resonate is very dependent on mass, and stiffness.
The required energy to KEEP a resonator system in resonation is very dependent on damping - and more mass means more damping.

A heavier, stiffer system takes more energy to get it into resonation.
A heavier system absorbs more energy to keep it resonating.
A heavier system has a lower resonance frequency.

So a heavier and stiffer system pushes the envelope just a bit further, increasing the "comfort zone".

Regarding the same cutter profile (say a 1" rebate cutter), and equal power input this means a 1/2" shank bit will take more energy to resonate than a 1/4"shank - it's stiffer and heavier.
So you can push the 1/2" bit just a bit harder then the 1/4" bit.
And if you take the bigger mass of the thicker spindle and collet into account, these differences just multiply.

If my theory is somehow flawed, I'm open to suggestions.

Regards,

Job