Consolidated Q&A for Planex and CT AutoClean

[Administrator_JSVN]

Shane,   Is it possible to get parts for the Planex hose?  What I'm looking for is the connector end (495013) and it's not showing in the EKAT yet.   What I want to do is replace my regular D36 connector with the flanged Planex one instead of buying another hose.   

Another thing about the Planex hose.   I believe earlier you mentioned that it was antistatic, but on the Festoolusa site it is listed under non-antistatic hoses.   Which is it, anti or non-anti?   If it is antistatic, then I would just buy that hose to replace my current hose as it seems a little more flexible than the green hoses. Is this true?   Thanks.

Ok, I'm not sure if I completely understand what you're trying to do. So hang with me here.

The CT AC comes with the Planex black hose. It's not sold separately, which is sometimes a misconception. So, you don't need to buy the flange for your current hose if you're going to get a CT AC.

If you're planning to use your non-AC CT with the Planex, yes, you should be able to buy the connector with the flange. Just give the service department a buzz and they can hook you up. Their number's below in my signature.

The Planex/CTAC hose is anti-static. I had put it in the wrong category on the website. Sorry about that. And, yes, it is made to be much more flexible AND lighter weight than the standard green hose.

Shane

 

[tjbnwi]

Thanks Tom.   I realize that the flange would be a problem for some tools, but I use my d27 for pretty much all of my tools (can you tell I don't have enough Festools yet)  except for my cleaning sets.  I have both the compact and installer sets. I'm sure I can modify the compact set to fit in the d36 connector. 

If you cut the bell off the end off the bent hand piece for the Compact set wand, the AC hose will fit. The wand handle becomes a male fit as opposed to the female fit. The other tools plug into the hose as male without modification.

Tom

 

[LostInTheWood]

Thanks guys that helps my decision process. 

Shane.....sorry just to clarify,  I have the CT26 as I need it for RRP and don't plan on buying the CT AC.  I do mostly small scale remodeling, so I don't think I'm going to kill my CT26 with the Planex. 

 

[pepsican]

Anyone have a idea which abrasives I should use to remove allot of old cracking/flaking paint from plaster before I skim the walls?  And from what I have read in here for final skim coat I can go right to 220/240? 

Thanks

 

[Jaybolishes]

Believe it or not, I've only been using 150, even on the finish sanding, and I bought all the abrasives.  With practice you end up with amazing results.  The planex on setting six is just mind blowing how fast it takes the mud down.  If you use 80 grit, you may want to be careful you don't sand through the drywall paper.  100 may do.

 

[pepsican]

I picked up 100/150/220.  Started with 100 on the walls (scraped loose stuff first) and its just way too slow.  I'm thinking 80 wont be much better.
  Is there any source for the #495070 60 grit Cristal (The paper made for paint..) in the states?? Going all the way down to 36 sounds kinda of crazy.. and it seems like it would take more work getting the scratches out.  Btw this is true plaster no paper in the walls.

 

[Bikeboy80]

I picked up 100/150/220.  Started with 100 on the walls (scraped loose stuff first) and its just way too slow.  I'm thinking 80 wont be much better.
  Is there any source for the #495070 60 grit Cristal (The paper made for paint..) in the states?? Going all the way down to 36 sounds kinda of crazy.. and it seems like it would take more work getting the scratches out.   Btw this is true plaster no paper in the walls.

Not to my knowledge, 24/36 then jumps to 80 brilliant.

If you try the 36 turn the speed down to 2-3, I did this when removing texture and it was much more controllable. Took about 90% of the texture off then switched back to 80 to finish it. I don't have any experience doing it on plaster but you might find similar results.

 

[Saskataper]

I would really like to see them bring in some 60 over here it would be ideal for stubborn popcorn. 

 

[speedsander]

I purchase a planex with vac  nice tool works good

can I add another length of hose to the original 11.5 standard that I receive with it

if I could add another 11.5 to it and get almost 23 feet it would be cool

thx Rick

 

[Saskataper]

I purchase a planex with vac   nice tool works good

can I add another length of hose to the original 11.5 standard that I receive with it

if I could add another 11.5 to it and get almost 23 feet it would be cool

thx Rick

Yup you just need to switch the ends on the second hose and get a coupler, I just picked up the workshop cleaning kit that came with a 36mm AS hose so I am going to grab the parts I need to do it as well. It'll be nice not having to move the vac as much.
Keep in mind the standard anti static hoses are not nearly as flexible as the Planex hose and don't seem as durable so I would get a second Planex hose if that's all you are using it for.

 

[GyprocJointer]

Just wondering what setting's people use there Planex for best results?    I'm currently using 100 grit sanding discs,  the only way i seem to take any compound off the wall is by using the centre suction and having that turned up high so the sander feels as if it's sucking it's self to the wall...  when using the sander on a lower setting of say 1/2  or using the outter suction the sander  slides across the joints with out sanding any compund off...

Is the suction  used to pull the sander onto the wall to make it sand? 

 

[Bikeboy80]

For sanding new joint compound I have the speed between 5-6 using 150 or 220, this is usually for lightweight compound. If I have to do a sand on heavyweight I drop to 80.

The suction is to help take the weight of the sander when sanding overhead. When sanding a ceiling I use the center suction and adjust the suction until it starts to suck to the ceiling but not so much that it is hard to move. Walls I turn it down further to make it easier to slide around. The outer suction setting I only use when removing texture.

I would say if you are having trouble with it not removing material fast enough try dropping to a lower grit.

 

[tjbnwi]

180 grit for compound, speed 4-5, vac setting 3 walls 4-5 ceiling.

Tom

 

[GyprocJointer]

It was suggested to me that  my work is to neat and doesn't need sanding hence why it's removing nothing...  Can't see that beeing the case.  my mate uses a Flex sander and 100 grit with outer suction and his works like an angle grinder and removes the compound like a hot knife threw butter.  i'm having to go over and over the same area 7 or 8 times to see any differance..  setting the vac setting higgher makes the planex motor dip like it's struggling, maybe it's the norm?  i cant say as i have never used a sander...

I was thinking it's because the brushes are new and the sanding disk doesn't sit flush to the wall, when trying a thicker sanding pad the sander vibrates over the wall and jumps..  i think 80 grit will be way to severe as for 100 grit i cant even get that to touch the joint unless the suction is pulling the sander hard onto the service?  is the planex ment to work in that fashion?

I am concerned with setting the vac setting to high as i am on my 3rd sander, the first 2 didn#t even last 1 house beofre they burnt out,  my personal opinion is that  the suction is to high and the motor can't handle it but that's the only way the sander seems to take the compound off..

isnt the van just an added gimick? the sander should sand the compund even with no suction surly?

 

[Bikeboy80]

I have good luck using one of the soft interface pads on ceilings, seems to make better contact.

 

[GyprocJointer]

So what grit paper would you use to sand jointing finished by a 12" box and corner box?  Do you need to apply much pressure to the sander?  I notice the sanding disk sits 2 or 3mm lower that the brush skirt...  I have tried a qtec and flex to compare the sanding removal rate and they made the planex look like a snail...  If it is down to my self or the way I joint I need to acquire the correct set ok skills needed..

 

[Saskataper]

Grit all depends on how hard your mud is which varies by region. I use the 240 and that's plenty but we have really soft mud here in Canada. The pressure is controlled by the vac, when its dialed in you can sand with one hand, you don't push at all just steer.

 

[Paul G]

Recently got a planex w/ 36AC and it's kicking my butt, must be doing something wrong and need advice. I'm sanding vaulted ceilings, not too steep going up to about 11 feet. I'm using two extensions plus the harness. 150 grit, sander speed 2, CT suction set to medium, planex suction set to 2-4, head set to center suction. When I start sanding it launches to the left and its very hard to move to the right. With it high up I have reduced leverage which doesnt help but the vids make it look almost effortless, certainly not my situation. Anyway I'm open to any advice on how to tame this beast, me and my back are very appreciative.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Recently got a planex w/ 36AC and it's kicking my butt, must be doing something wrong and need advice. I'm sanding vaulted ceilings, not too steep going up to about 11 feet. I'm using two extensions plus the harness. 150 grit, sander speed 2, CT suction set to medium, planex suction set to 2-4, head set to center suction. When I start sanding it launches to the left and its very hard to move to the right. With it high up I have reduced leverage which doesnt help but the vids make it look almost effortless, certainly not my situation. Anyway I'm open to any advice on how to tame this beast, me and my back are very appreciative.

Paul, may I suggest that you start out on a lower ceiling or surface until you get the hang of it rather than giving yourself a workout? I would recommend that you always leave the CT's suction on max. Use the handle control on the Planex to adjust suction. I think you may have the Planex speed too low, try speeding it up to overcome the friction of the abrasive. Try keeping it above 4-5 most of the time. I'd only use 2 when you're using a high grit, like 200+.

Also, make sure you have the harass set up in the configuration shown in this photo with the Planex turned in an inverted orientation.

 

[Paul G]

Thanks Shane, I'll make those setting changes and try again. As for the harness, working on vaulted ceilings makes it tricky, wasn't sure which way to orient everything, sloping up towards me or away, or side to side, trying to not go beyond the heads articulation and also be efficient on my harness adjustments as I change elevations. As for learning on a lower ceiling, this is what I have to work on now so its into the deep end for me whether I like it or not.