Construction adhesive on trim... To use or not to use?

[Electric Trim]

I can't think of a time that I don't use yellow glue or fast tack glue on miter or scarf joints, but I rarely use construction adhesive on interior trim.

My question is for those of you that have put thought into whether or not you like using adhesive to glue trim to walls or ceilings.

The only time I glue trim is on the top edge of crown moulding on runs that are parallel to the ceiling joists.

I wonder if it would be wise to use glue on stain grade trim so you could minimize your nailing...

WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK!?

 

[Eli]

Wood-wood I use glue.
Wood/plaster/pvc/etc - anything else I use Con Adhesive.

 

[Electric Trim]

Wood-wood I use glue.
Wood/plaster/pvc/etc - anything else I use Con Adhesive.

Wood to drywall?

 

[Electric Trim]

Wood-wood I use glue.
Wood/plaster/pvc/etc - anything else I use Con Adhesive.

Are you a trim carpenter or general contractor? Or both [eek]

 

[Eli]

Are you a trim carpenter or general contractor? Or both [eek]

Both, but to be fair I don't do a ton of stain grade. They run crown a bit different in AU than we do in the states. Plaster crown is quite common, in fact the most common, so you can screw it and patch or mud the back and shlock it up there, but I know adhesive won't likely fail, and that stuff is heavy enough to take out a toddler if it comes down. Wood crown and trim is much much less common than the states. I would use adhesive if I did any, because of the age of most local residentials you can never be totally sure about what's behind the wall. I do also use adhesive sometimes when I put up french cleats for cabinets. @ two bucks a tube it's cheap insurance.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Electric Trim,

Do you nail a backer to the wall before installing crown?

I've used Loctite's Power Grab adhesive in the caulk tube for adhering wood to walls and masonary or in addition to nailing.  Also use PL's products, but usually I just nail crown without adhesive.

 

[Electric Trim]

I don't put a nailer until I get up to about 6" crown.  Another factor I didn't mentioned is blocking.  One of our builders is really good about blocking for crown during framing.  Makes life easy for us and probably trims down their call backs for paint touch ups.

Thanks for the heads up on the loctite.  Can't wait to try it!

 

[kdzito]

Yes.  Just use liquid nails.  Glue and Screw/Shoot.

 

[Electric Trim]

Yes.  Just use liquid nails.  Glue and Screw/Shoot.

You screw your interior trim?

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Yes.  Just use liquid nails.  Glue and Screw/Shoot.

You screw your interior trim?

[big grin] [big grin] It's a slow progression from riveting the stuff for many years.

 

[kdzito]

Yes.  Just use liquid nails.  Glue and Screw/Shoot.

You screw your interior trim?

Oh yes, have you heard of trim screws?  It's a # 6 size and come in lengths of 1-1/4, 1-5/8, & 2"  We use them on paint grade material only.

 

[jmbfestool]

Sticks like SH**  is Good stuff!

or sticks all!

Sticks to everything and anything! Also paintable and can be used under water! So wet dam it will stick! It does hold very strong aswell!  Love the stuff!   

On new build I use sticks like sh** or sticks all for skirting (kick board) and tack a few pins with my nail gun thats it to keep it to the wall while it sets.  So hardly any filling and clients love it oppose to screws as alot of clients always say can you fit the skirting so I dont have to do alot of filling!  I always the way I always fit skirting you wont have much filling to do.     

On old buildings I would use Foam as its a good gab filler and it would cost to much money to use sticks all as the walls are often broken away and would swallow tubes of sticks all. If the wall has a large bow I would then have to use screws to pull it in which I would pellet after so no filling.  I hate filling! lol

JMB

 

[mopowers]

I have tried loctite but did not like the results. It became to hard and brittle. I also stay away from construction adhesive on trim or stairs. Over time it will become hard and not move with the wood making for a broken bond. Plus it has a lot of build and can get in the way of a tight fit. In my opinion the absolute best stuff to use is vinyl adhesive caulk. It has an incredible bond, stays flexible, and can be painted/ joint fill like a latex caulk. Does not clean up like latex caulk so i dont use it that way, just an adhesive with benefits. Also in a pinch latex caulk provides a very strong bong.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

I have tried loctite but did not like the results. It became to hard and brittle. I also stay away from construction adhesive on trim or stairs. Over time it will become hard and not move with the wood making for a broken bond. Plus it has a lot of build and can get in the way of a tight fit. In my opinion the absolute best stuff to use is vinyl adhesive caulk. It has an incredible bond, stays flexible, and can be painted/ joint fill like a latex caulk. Does not clean up like latex caulk so i dont use it that way, just an adhesive with benefits. Also in a pinch latex caulk provides a very strong bong.

You're referring to Phenoseal by DAP.

 

[mopowers]

You're referring to Phenoseal by DAP.

I am not sure if you are clarifying my post or asking but yes Phenoseal. I also like a similar Geocel product when i can find it. I will not use Polyseamseal adhesive caulk and for some reason thats what my local lumberyard caries.

 

[Eli]

Also in a pinch latex caulk provides a very strong bong.

This thread is about sniffing glue, not pulling bong loads.  [big grin]

 

[Eli]

I agree it can be hard to get a tight fit with construction adhesive sometimes.

If the weather's cold and I think it'll be an issue, I put a few cartridges in a soft sided thermal lunch bag with a couple of hot water bottles at home when I make coffee on my way out the door. By the time I'm rolled out and actually doing something it's warm and ready to flow.

 

[mopowers]

This thread is about sniffing glue, not pulling bong loads.

  [big grin] [big grin] silly me!

 

[jmbfestool]

I have tried loctite but did not like the results. It became to hard and brittle. I also stay away from construction adhesive on trim or stairs. Over time it will become hard and not move with the wood making for a broken bond. Plus it has a lot of build and can get in the way of a tight fit. In my opinion the absolute best stuff to use is vinyl adhesive caulk. It has an incredible bond, stays flexible, and can be painted/ joint fill like a latex caulk. Does not clean up like latex caulk so i dont use it that way, just an adhesive with benefits. Also in a pinch latex caulk provides a very strong bong.

I agree adhesive is crap I assume ur on about adhesive like pink grip.    Them types are no good for anything they hate damp they dont stick eveything especially non porous they wont hold. Like you said they go rock hard and so become brittle and a hard knock can release the bond.

I have removed many skirting boards which where stuck on with adhesive came of dead easy simple chisel behind and one knock of the hammer took the  entire lenth of skirting off and if the plaster was slightly dam non of it would of stayed on the wall only on the skirting.    
Sticks all and sticks like is hard 2 remove pulls the plaster of with it and foam is the same if you foam properly it will pull off large sections of plaster   which if proof that they have stuck well.

JMB

 

[Ken Nagrod]

I have tried loctite but did not like the results. It became to hard and brittle. I also stay away from construction adhesive on trim or stairs. Over time it will become hard and not move with the wood making for a broken bond. Plus it has a lot of build and can get in the way of a tight fit. In my opinion the absolute best stuff to use is vinyl adhesive caulk. It has an incredible bond, stays flexible, and can be painted/ joint fill like a latex caulk. Does not clean up like latex caulk so i dont use it that way, just an adhesive with benefits. Also in a pinch latex caulk provides a very strong bong.

I agree adhesive is crap I assume ur on about adhesive like pink grip.    Them types are no good for anything they hate damp they dont stick eveything especially non porous they wont hold. Like you said they go rock hard and so become brittle and a hard knock can release the bond.

I have removed many skirting boards which where stuck on with adhesive came of dead easy simple chisel behind and one knock of the hammer took the  entire lenth of skirting off and if the plaster was slightly dam non of it would of stayed on the wall only on the skirting.   
Sticks all and sticks like is hard 2 remove pulls the plaster of with it and foam is the same if you foam properly it will pull off large sections of plaster  which if proof that they have stuck well.

JMB

JMB speak to English ---- He didn't like it.  [tongue]