Construction of Homemade Work Centre

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Jul 21, 2007
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Further to my post in Paul's excellent WCR 1000 review thread, this thread documents the build of my own version of a vac-based work centre.

Firstly, this idea came directly from Paul's review, and the fact that he's mounted his on the systainer 'platform'. I would like to take full credit, but I can't I'm afraid. It's a blatant rip off of Festool's design, and Paul's input. [embarassed]

I drew an outline design in SketchUp to get the general dimensions. I'll be mounting this on a CT26, with a sys2. With the work centre on top, access to the systainer is limited slightly, but this systainer is used purely to store spare bags for the CT so that's not an issue (since the work centre would have to be removed to change the bag anyway). Based on the height of this combo, I decided to make my WCR at 600mm high:

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I decided to use 18mm WBP ply for the construction. It's lighter, stronger and takes paint better than MDF, and I had plenty of offcuts I could use!

The construction is very simple. First, I had to make the end pieces. I wanted a nice curve on them, and I wanted them to be identical, so firstly I made a template. I printed the shape of the curve from SketchUp at 1:1 scale, and used photo-mount spray to fix them to a piece of 9mm MDF for the template:

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The straight cuts were done with my TS55, and the curves roughed out with my jigsaw before being sanded smooth & to the line:

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I then used the template to draw out the sides & rough cut them with the jigsaw:

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before screwing the template to each side in turn:

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and trimming them with a bearing guided bit in my router table:

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The pieces for the bottom and the vertical section were cut to size, and the timber trim fixed to the bottom board, then the assembly was glued & screwed together. The vertical section is not centered on the uprights - it's flush at one side.

Then the small shelf was added & trimmed, along with the top. Then all the screw holes were filled, and the whole thing sanded ready for painting:

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It was then painted in the same way as my Kapex Stand, which is painted with emulsion paint (straight onto the bare ply) then finished with a single coat of water-based varnish. When I did this on the Kapex stand I wondered how resilient it would be, and I was happy with the result. It's a lot easier than priming/undercoating then overpainting with oil-based eggshell, especially when it comes to clean-up!

I had some non-slip rubber matting that I bought long ago (designed for holding pieces to a bench whilst routing & sanding) so I cut a piece to fit on the bottom, and one for the top shelf. These were glued in place with a spray adhesive:

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I also added some small cheap screw-in hooks to the 'flush' side of the vertical divide for holding sanding disks.

The main 'add-on' I wanted to copy from the Festool design was the large hose/tool hook on the front end( the hose on my CT26 is the main thing that gets in the way in my small workshop!). It is available as a separate part (497474) and it would screw directly to the upright, but I couldn't justify spending that amount of money on a piece of wire (!) so I decided to try to make my own.

I bought a length of 5mm diameter steel rod from a DIY shed, and then set about trying to bend it where I wanted it to bend - not as easy as it sounds! I didn't really plan what I was going to do with it too carefully, I just sort of made it up as I went along. I made a small jig to help with the bending process:

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Initially, I wanted to bend both of the 'legs' to the centre, in order to mount it to the upright (as per my original SketchUp model). About half-way through the process however, I realised it would be far easier to mount it to the sides of the top shelf so the rod was bent double, and screwed on with four M6x50mm coach screws into 5mm pilot holes:

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This front 'hook' is perfect for holding the sanders, and also works as a 'handle' to guide the vac around:

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Here's some more pics of the finished article:

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This design isn't as 'adaptable' as Festool's, but for the cost (virtually nothing) it's fine. I haven't added all the hooks, baskets, extra shelves etc. that I envisaged at first; I decided I'd leave it quite bare and add bits to it over time, thus the design will 'evolve' in a more natural way. Plus I won't have to try & guess where I might want things in the future!
 
Brice Burrell said:
Bravo! [thumbs up]  Now let's see that shake test. [tongue]

I think I'll pass on that one [eek]

Same with wrestling it to the ground - I don't have the hockey gear (though I am blessed with natural padding!).
 
beautiful job jonny.
i hope you dont mind me ripping off your design!

looks like i will be busy today......

justin.
 
What is the black sleeve on the vac hose?  I would love something like that!  BTW very nice work.  I might "borrow" some ideas!
 
looks great and very useful. I like the cost compared  to the real workcenter [big grin]
 
Very nice. So do I buy a WCR or copy yours? If only there were more hours in the day.
Actually though my wife keeps threatening to buy me a WCR, she thinks it come out in June. I don't feel comfortable with her buying me tools. She feels the WCR is the Festool version of the Barbie playhouse.
 
Nicely done! [thumbs up]

In the link to your kapex stand I saw you have an mft top on your blue framed bench in the background.  Is the top 2 mdf replacement tops placed next to each other? Or, did you drill your own? 

I want to build my own in mft shop assembly table but want it square 1200x1200 - 48" by 48" so I'd need to construct my own mdf table top but I still want the 96 on center 20 mm holes so I can use the qwas dogs and clamps.

any advice would be welcome!

Thanks!
 
Scott Rollins said:
What is the black sleeve on the vac hose?  I would love something like that!  BTW very nice work.  I might "borrow" some ideas!

Scott,

It's an expandable polyester sleeving that carries the hose and a plug-it cord. The ends are sealed with adhesive-lined heatshrink tubing. I did the same with the hose in my mini when I bought that, about 4 1/2 years ago, and it's still holding up (if a little tatty in places!).
 
rookie08 said:
Nicely done! [thumbs up]

In the link to your kapex stand I saw you have an mft top on your blue framed bench in the background.  Is the top 2 mdf replacement tops placed next to each other? Or, did you drill your own? 

I want to build my own in mft shop assembly table but want it square 1200x1200 - 48" by 48" so I'd need to construct my own mdf table top but I still want the 96 on center 20 mm holes so I can use the qwas dogs and clamps.

any advice would be welcome!

Thanks!

Rookie,

I cut the top myself. I used a Festool top (actually half of an MFT1080 top) as a template, then routered it. The process is detailed in this post.
 
Holzhacker said:
Very nice. So do I buy a WCR or copy yours? If only there were more hours in the day.
Actually though my wife keeps threatening to buy me a WCR, she thinks it come out in June. I don't feel comfortable with her buying me tools. She feels the WCR is the Festool version of the Barbie playhouse.
[big grin]
She has a point there.
I'll wager that most everyone who buys the WCR is going to build a few customizations for it.  I'm already thinking in that line.
I like to have 'mini kits' of related stuff.  For instance, I'll probably make a little box to hold the domino cutters and wrench and another for the OF1400 collets, wrench, etc.
 
It looks really good Jonny!  Thank for the idea and for the construction detail photos.

I know that, if I were to purchase a WCR from Festool, that I would make lots of mods and enhancements to it. 

So, when I get around to it, I will probably do as you have done, and start off with a clean slate and simply build a WCR that exactly meets my needs.
 
Hey Jonny, thats pretty cool.  I Wonder if Shane will remove this thread as Festool will probably lose out on a few sales due to this  [poke] [bite tongue]  Just joking.

Does the sleeve on the hose help with it not catching on stuff ?  With regards to the heat shrink sleeve on the ends, how is it applied ?  I have never tried it.  I do have a Makita heat gunn, would this be of use & do you have a link to the sleeve.  I think i will order some for my 3 Festool hoses.

Cheers Jonny.
 
woodguy7 said:
Hey Jonny, thats pretty cool.  I Wonder if Shane will remove this thread as Festool will probably lose out on a few sales due to this  [poke] [bite tongue]  Just joking.

Does the sleeve on the hose help with it not catching on stuff ?  With regards to the heat shrink sleeve on the ends, how is it applied ?  I have never tried it.  I do have a Makita heat gunn, would this be of use & do you have a link to the sleeve.  I think i will order some for my 3 Festool hoses.

Cheers Jonny.

The sleeving does help with stopping the hose catching, but if the edge you're dragging it over is really sharp then the braiding will catch. The heatshrink was some I had left over from the first one I did, so I don't have a link for it. You have to heat it with a heat gun, but the problem is that both the hose and the braiding melt really, really easily. You have to be VERY careful.

The old one is fine, but this last one I ended up melting the hose slightly at one end. It didn't melt completely, but it does look pretty bad:

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Oooops... [eek]
 
Well, if you're going to screw up and melt the hose you did it a good place.  You can easily cut it off and you won't lose too much.
 
Brice Burrell said:
Well, if you're going to screw up and melt the hose you did it a good place.  You can easily cut it off and you won't lose too much.

Brice, I don't need to cut it off - although it looks bad it's still physically intact (it didn't melt through) so works fine. If I did cut it off, I'd then have to shorten the braid & re-seal it anyway, so there's really no advantage in doing so.
 
This is the heatshrink tubing I used - I bought it from eBay but there doesn't seem to be anyone selling it in that size at the moment.
 
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