Converting SawStop PCS 1.75 from 110v to 220v

[DavidCBaker]

Just do it. The part was $40. Took a little rewiring and a careful reading of the instructions, but it went off without a hitch. When I bought the saw, I never thought I'd have 220v in the garage, but the band saw I bought required it, so I figured I'd take advantage of the faster startups, lower current draw, and less motor heating of 220v.

SawStop is a first rate company when it comes to quality and instructions.

 

[PaulMarcel]

Ah nice to know they have that option on the 1.75.  I have the 3.0 PCS and love it, but if someone is in a 220V bind, the 1.75 makes a lot of sense.  Good to know you can do the adjustment when 220V is available.

Their instructions and service are first rate.

 

[bonesbr549]

Just do it. The part was $40. Took a little rewiring and a careful reading of the instructions, but it went off without a hitch. When I bought the saw, I never thought I'd have 220v in the garage, but the band saw I bought required it, so I figured I'd take advantage of the faster startups, lower current draw, and less motor heating of 220v.

SawStop is a first rate company when it comes to quality and instructions.

I'm saving for my sawstop now I'm jelous.  I like running my tools at 220.  However the total current draw at 220 is the same regardless of 110 .vs. 220 you just pull half the amps on two legs instead of the whole think on one leg.  I have a good artilcle on 220.vs.110 if you ever want to see it and for various resons 220 is good when you can do it.  Enjoy the sawstop. 

 

[festoolsnob]

I'm saving for my sawstop now I'm jelous.  I like running my tools at 220.   However the total current draw at 220 is the same regardless of 110 .vs. 220 you just pull half the amps on two legs instead of the whole think on one leg.   I have a good artilcle on 220.vs.110 if you ever want to see it and for various resons 220 is good when you can do it.  Enjoy the sawstop.   
[/quote]

Bones, surely that is not correct.

a 2kW saw running on 220V would require about 9A, while 2kW at 110V would be 18A and change. Higher Voltage, lower current for the same power.

 

[mouppe]

That's right. My physics is rusty but Ohm's Law states that Power = Voltage x Current.

So if the voltage is higher, the current would be lower for the same power.

 

[PaulMarcel]

A member on another forum said he talked with SawStop tech support and found that if he gets 220V in the shop, he can buy the 3 hp 220V motor from SawStop and swap out the 1.75hp 110V motor.  The controller is the same as is every other bell and whistle.  That could certainly make the 1.75 more attractive as there is a very nice upgrade path.

Again, this was from another member who contacted SawStop; if you are interested in that possibility, you might want to verify the details with their tech support (and post results here )

 

[Rick Christopherson]

 However the total current draw at 220 is the same regardless of 110 .vs. 220 you just pull half the amps on two legs instead of the whole think on one leg.   I have a good artilcle on 220.vs.110 if you ever want to see it and for various resons 220 is good when you can do it.  Enjoy the sawstop.   

This gets stated many times, but isn't how it actually works. Regardless whether it is 120 or 240, you have one conductor supplying current and the other conductor returning current. The only difference is that we have given these conductors "nicknames" that are sometimes confusing. The nickname, "Neutral" comes from the fact that it is the center-tap of the transformer. Being in the middle means it is Neutral (in between) the other two conductors.

If you want a good article on the subject, including an explanation why the motors don't have more power, don't run cooler, don't cost less; read Electricity in the Woodshop