Cordless saws

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Oct 17, 2010
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I am thinking of going with the cordless route on my saws and was curious what peeps think.
The HCK looks good ,but how's the cut on a regular track?

I don't think I want to get both the track saw and HCK if the cut quality is good on sheet goods with the HCK.

What's the thoughts?
PS. I have a ts75 now, but like the idea of a smaller saw w/o a cord.

Thanks in advance,
Charlie

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I have an HKC that I use more on the standard FS rails than on the FSK rail. I've cut a bunch of cement board and recently have cut a bunch of 3/4" ply using just the FSK & FS.

Dust collection is surprisingly good using just the dust bag considering the openness of the blade.

Just make sure you adjust the HKC & TS 75 to the same offset to keep the splinter strip intact.

The HKC with one battery, no cord and no vacuum hose is a real pleasure to use.  [big grin]
 
Thanks
The HKC is where I'm leaning.
My ts75 is a bit big for plywood cutting.
Sounds like buying both the ts and HKC would be overkill.
Charlie
PS. The HKC is one battery and the TS is 2 ?

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Cheese said:
Just make sure you adjust the HKC & TS 75 to the same offset to keep the splinter strip intact.

How do you do this? I have a TS55 and was thinking adding HKC. I'm not aware of how to do this with either saw... I assumed they all came with the same offset?
 
mrB said:
Cheese said:
Just make sure you adjust the HKC & TS 75 to the same offset to keep the splinter strip intact.

How do you do this? I have a TS55 and was thinking adding HKC. I'm not aware of how to do this with either saw... I assumed they all came with the same offset?

I have the same question- how do you adjust them? My TS 75 offset is MUCH different that my TSC 55.
 
I made a fixture to match all of my Festool saws. I use the fixture to match 55's and a 75.

If you have an R model use it as your benchmark saw. There is less adjustment in an R than the is in the E models.

I have a cordless TS (and corded) and purchased the HK. The cordless TS is a great saw. I went with the HK because 99% of the time I using a CT. Maybe some day I'll get an HKC.

Tom
 

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LDBecker said:
My TS 75 offset is MUCH different that my TSC 55.

FWIW...I think Festool may be doing a better job in matching offsets. My HKC & TSC, both purchased in the last couple of years were EXACTLY the same. My TS 55 purchased about 7-8 years ago, was different by almost .125". [sad]
 
Cheese said:
LDBecker said:
My TS 75 offset is MUCH different that my TSC 55.

FWIW...I think Festool may be doing a better job in matching offsets. My HKC & TSC, both purchased in the last couple of years were EXACTLY the same. My TS 55 purchased about 7-8 years ago, was different by almost 3/16". [sad]

I've experienced the same issue and I have a few of the newer rails that are unfortunately not the same as my older ones.

To add to this thread, my question is:  [member=44099]Cheese[/member], [member=4105]tjbnwi[/member], [member=57769]TylerC[/member]

What are you guys finding as far as the amount of splinter guard that is left sticking out from the edge of the rail when your saws are adjusted together?  My TS55R and my TSC 55 are not the same, not even close.
 
Samo said:
What are you guys finding as far as the amount of splinter guard that is left sticking out from the edge of the rail when your saws are adjusted together?  My TS55R and my TSC 55 are not the same, not even close.

I'm looking at an overall average of around .092", although it does vary from spot to spot. Total range is .082"-.092"
 
Thanks, Cheese!

You must have a steady touch, my splinter guards are very wavy.  On my MFT 1080 rail, probably the most controlled cutting, the average is in the .072' range.

Hopefully, we will get some more feedback?  Somewhere in the back of my mind from the old black splinter guard days, I remember
2-2.5mm?

I will end up with four saws when all is said and done, so I'm thinking a jig is a smart move.
 
Samo said:
I will end up with four saws when all is said and done, so I'm thinking a jig is a smart move.

I'm thinking a jig is a real smart move...I like Tom's a lot. If I were to make a jig, I'd go Tom's route but I'd substitute a piece of aluminum for the plastic splinter guard so that the blade could be set against a hard stop.  [big grin]
 
Great info
I had thought the festool system would have the saws line up perfectly .
I also will end up with 3 saws,and need the rails to line up.
The set up jig is a great idea.
I wouldn't have checked, just cut and wondered wtf.
Thanks again
Charlie

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Strip exposure entry to exit;

FS 800 .035-.036- .035

FS 1080 .030-.036- .032

FS 1400 .032- .032- .036 -.033

FS 1900 .032- .032- .036- .033- .033

FS 2700 .036- .035- .037- 0.140- .039- .033

The larger deviation in the 2700 is due to damage on the rail edge.

Tom
 
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