Corian job

[Crazyraceguy]

I never did set these two pieces in the correct orientation to each other, mostly because I completed them at different times. The one with the wood strips is 6" shorter, but they sit together, with a walkway between them. It will have the top shipped loose, which is easier to handle.
The one with the clipped corner has the front face fused to the top, all one seamless chunk, then extended another 7 feet upon assembly.
I'll try to get some finished/installed pics. It will make more sense that way.

 

[waho6o9]

Clean work, thanks for the clamp up picture, it's very informative.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I normally use vacuum clamps, but that only works on flat surfaces.
That shot was from the test fit, to get the lengths of the ends, away from the center section.
It takes way more to do the whole thing, along with cauls across the top.
That is just a few plywood blocks, cut to 22.5 degrees and stuck on there with hot-melt.

 

[Cheese]

So, do the hot melt blocks come off cleanly? Is there a particular hot melt you'd recommend for this application?

I wonder if applying a tape first to the substrate and then hot melting the support blocks to the tape, if that would provide any benefit?

Still neat stuff...love to see the small details, they make all the difference.  [smile]

 

[luvmytoolz]

So, do the hot melt blocks come off cleanly? Is there a particular hot melt you'd recommend for this application?

I wonder if applying a tape first to the substrate and then hot melting the support blocks to the tape, if that would provide any benefit?

Still neat stuff...love to see the small details, they make all the difference.  [smile]

I was wondering the same, and whether the old blue tape and superglue trick would here or the parts are too large for that?

 

[tjbnwi]

So, do the hot melt blocks come off cleanly? Is there a particular hot melt you'd recommend for this application?

I wonder if applying a tape first to the substrate and then hot melting the support blocks to the tape, if that would provide any benefit?

Still neat stuff...love to see the small details, they make all the difference.  [smile]

Denatured alcohol dissolves the hot melt glue. Squirt a little around the block, give it a few seconds and the blocks come right off. A little wipe and no one knows the blocks were ever there.

Tom

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Denatured alcohol dissolves the hot melt glue. Squirt a little around the block, give it a few seconds and the blocks come right off. A little wipe and no one knows the blocks were ever there.

Tom

100%    It's surprising how much pressure you can apply to those blocks, without pulling them off, a little dribble of alcohol and they come right off.

 

[Cheese]

Thanks for the info guys...I always keep a squeeze bottle of IPA around as a lubricant when machining aluminum, I'd imagine that would work.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] I would think so, but never tried it myself.

You are definitely in the old-school realm of using Alcohol as a lube for Aluminum. I whole-heartedly approve  [big grin]
That's what we were taught way back, when I went to school for machining. Back before they called it "manual machining"......because it was the only way.
The other one, that usually bugs people is machining cast Iron. No lube at all, totally dry. The Iron itself has enough graphite to be somewhat self-lubricating, and adding oil to it generally creates a slurry, out of the swarf/dust.