Cove molding with TS55/75 and/or MFT

[Jesus Aleman]

Hi, I've seen table saw setups to cut large (read wide) cove moldings on a table saw.  Has anyone developed a safe technique to do this with a Festool saw with or without the MFT.  I can see that using the MFT could be possible.  However, keeping the saw plunge during the cut may be an issue, and a helper may be required to feed the stock.  My first impression is that this wouldn't be too safe, but if some one has developed a sound and safe technique please share. 

Thanks in advance.  JGA

PS.  I am making some large painting frames where the cove cut is well beyond the capabilities of a router bit.

 

[Eli]

I've found that in most cases, when I've ignored my gut feeling about whether something is safe, I usually regret it.

 

[gkeas]

You could fabricate a jig similar to what I've seen done for using a router to make mortises.  I can't draw anything, but the basic idea is that you have two sides that support the saw & guide rail, and the stock you are cutting goes down between (flush with the top of the supports).

It seems like this could be done very safely and easily with one person. 

 

[mastercabman]

You could fabricate a jig similar to what I've seen done for using a router to make mortises.  I can't draw anything, but the basic idea is that you have two sides that support the saw & guide rail, and the stock you are cutting goes down between (flush with the top of the supports).

It seems like this could be done very safely and easily with one person. 

How do you keep the saw blade locked in position while you are pushing the wood thru?

 

[greg mann]

You could fabricate a jig similar to what I've seen done for using a router to make mortises.  I can't draw anything, but the basic idea is that you have two sides that support the saw & guide rail, and the stock you are cutting goes down between (flush with the top of the supports).

It seems like this could be done very safely and easily with one person. 

How do you keep the saw blade locked in position while you are pushing the wood thru?

I think you would want the saw mounted on an angle in a saddle that straddles the work. The work would need to be clamped to a bench. Plunge and slide the saw, saddle and all to the other end. Drop your depth setting a little and run it down again. With the right saddle construction this might be much safer than a table saw. The angle within the saddle would imitate the skew you would use on your TS.

 

[mastercabman]

You could fabricate a jig similar to what I've seen done for using a router to make mortises.  I can't draw anything, but the basic idea is that you have two sides that support the saw & guide rail, and the stock you are cutting goes down between (flush with the top of the supports).

It seems like this could be done very safely and easily with one person. 

How do you keep the saw blade locked in position while you are pushing the wood thru?

I think you would want the saw mounted on an angle in a saddle that straddles the work. The work would need to be clamped to a bench. Plunge and slide the saw, saddle and all to the other end. Drop your depth setting a little and run it down again. With the right saddle construction this might be much safer than a table saw. The angle within the saddle would imitate the skew you would use on your TS.

I'm not exactally sure what your are talking about,i have an idea but still scratching my head!
Would it be possible to see some pics?or some kind of drawing?    I'm now very interested in how that can be done with a plunge cut saw!

 

[peter halle]

I've never cut cove molding on a tablesaw although I understand how to.  But with a ts55 / 75?  I guess you could put the saw on a track with blocks underneath to adjust the height to allow a piece to be slid thru at an angle.  But other than having someone stand there plunging the saw I don't see how you would keep the blade plunged.  I'd rather not.

Peter

 

[woodshopdemos]

I have cut cove molding on the table saw and have spent quite a bit of time working out the hold-downs and methods. It is a safe procedure but just marginally so, in my estimation. As to using the TS 55/75 for such a task: I have been trying too visualize a method for days and haven't come up with any. In my mind, if youcant do it safely, then there is no point in doing it all all.

 

[mastercabman]

I've never cut cove molding on a tablesaw although I understand how to.  But with a ts55 / 75?  I guess you could put the saw on a track with blocks underneath to adjust the height to allow a piece to be slid thru at an angle.  But other than having someone stand there plunging the saw I don't see how you would keep the blade plunged.  I'd rather not.

Peter

Also,what about the size of the blade? Is it big enough? Kerf too thin?(deflection?)  Is the saw really up to the task?  (bad for bearrings/spindle?)
The OP did say that he needs to make a "large"cove molding.

 

[Eli]

Well, maybe if you were cutting along the length of the molding rather than diagonally, as the table saw method does. You'd be limited to a production length as long as your longest guide rail, so it would be so labor intensive that I can't imagine making any in great quantity.

Then you'd still have to scrape smooth and sand it, after moving the rail and changing the plunge depth 60 or 70 times minimum.

It might take longer than making it entirely with hand tools.

I think I remember an article about a stack laminated curved cove mold made this way on the tablesaw. Trace the side profile on the end of the work and depth accordingly.

Anyway, I'd probably just whack the TS-55 into the CMS if I were going to do this...........
;D

 

[jorj jones]

Hi, I've seen table saw setups to cut large (read wide) cove moldings on a table saw.  Has anyone developed a safe technique to do this with a Festool saw with or without the MFT.  I can see that using the MFT could be possible.  However, keeping the saw plunge during the cut may be an issue, and a helper may be required to feed the stock.  My first impression is that this wouldn't be too safe, but if some one has developed a sound and safe technique please share. 

Thanks in advance.  JGA

PS.  I am making some large painting frames where the cove cut is well beyond the capabilities of a router bit.

I saw a post at the eurekazone forum.
It looked easy and safe.
I may find the post and provide a link.

JJ

 

[Jesus Aleman]

Thank you I found it.  Essentially they are sliding the material under a fixed saw (similar to the TS technique).  This is a one off project (I'm a hobbyist) where I want to reproduce a large frame for a painting (4'x8').  I will give it a try and report back.  I'm thinking of using the following procedure.

1) Use the router table or router on rail to remove the bulk of the material.  Essentially the cove is created by routing off small steps the size of the bit diameter.
2) Use the TS55 on rail to complete the profile (aka, remove the routed steps).  The trick will be to develop a stable and safe surface to slide the stock under the rail.
3) Clean  the profile with a scraper and sand paper.

I may be able to skip step 2 if I router the stepped profile with a large bit (remove most of material) and then finesse the steps with a smaller bit.  This will be time consuming, but safer IMO.  Either way it will be time consuming.

Any thoughts.

 

[mastercabman]

Jesus,just a question.    Do you have a table saw?

 

[woodshopdemos]

JA,
  If it is just for the frame, have you considered going to the lumberyard and looking at their poster showing all the shapes. I bet that you could make a fantastic frame from a number of molding shapes glued together and then finished.

 

[nickao]

I have cut cove molding on the table saw and have spent quite a bit of time working out the hold-downs and methods. It is a safe procedure but just marginally so, in my estimation. As to using the TS 55/75 for such a task: I have been trying too visualize a method for days and haven't come up with any. In my mind, if youcant do it safely, then there is no point in doing it all all.

I think if you can not come up with something safe it will be a tough thing for anyone to come up with, but you never know. I see things I never thought of all the time. Maybe someone can come up with a really neat solution. I find many non woodworkers or beginners come up with unique ideas because they are not set in their way and look at things from a different perspective. I am so set in my way of thinking over the years.

I don't like cutting cove on the table saw though I have done so with various jigs. With all the profiles they offer now I find it just is not worth my time. Even when I needed a custom cove to match an old 1920's building it was only 180.00 for the cutters plus the linear foot price for the raw stock. The jigs I have used have cost that much and paying someone to run off the cove for me saved all the labor time.

 

[John Stevens]

Any thoughts.

Hi, Jesus.  Did you see this post?

http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=4747.msg51168#msg51168

Hope this isn't too late to be useful.

Regards & Merry Christmas,

John

 

[johnsonri]

John, I just happened to come across this post. Thanks for referring to that article there. I have used that method for cutting coves with my mft/ts55 on several occasions. It works well and is very quick once you do it once or twice.

There are several ways to do coves, and that is one of them.

Regards
Rey