Crafty lady needs help with hardware question

Joined
Aug 14, 2017
Messages
5
I would like to mount a shelf, board, or tray under my kitchen cabinet. Basically I would like to create a space about the size of an office inbox. I want this shelf to set my iPad, phone, to get charged in a safe place so my kid does not disconnect it and so my kitten does not chew on my charger cords (don't' task). I have a nice piece of board that is finished on the edges about the size of a medium cutting board. I would like to use screws, lag bolts, hex bolts or something of the like, to hang it below the kitchen cabinet about 2 1/2 or 3 inches below the cabinet suspended by 4 screws etc. I don't want to attach it to the wall because of the backsplash and I do not mind drilling holes through the underneath of the cabinet because the overhang will hide it. So my question is really about choosing the correct hardware let the shelf hang (sort of float) underneath by 4 posts (screws/bolts). What suggestions do the more experienced folks out there have for me?
 
You will probably get many answers to this, but one way is to use 1/4-20 Quick-Connect Large-Head Bolts and either 1/4-20 Quick-Connect Flanged Insert Nuts or T-Nuts & Propell Nuts (1/4-20 Thread).  The bolts can either go up through a hole in the shelf or down through a hole in the cabinet.

They are available through many supply houses, but the following Lee Valley pages will show you what I am talking about.

Have fun.

Larry

1/4-20 Quick-Connect Large-Head Bolts: http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?p=44242&cat=3,43576,45375,44242

1/4-20 Quick-Connect Flanged Insert Nuts:http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?p=44237&cat=3,43576,45375,44237

T-Nuts & Propell Nuts (1/4-20 Thread):http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?p=40361&cat=3,43576,61994,40361
 
@ CASMith13[member=10569]KC[/member].rr.com  Doesn't the shelf need to slide in and out from underneathe the cabinet?  Maybe construct a channel for each side of the tray using two narrow strips for each channel. Two or three screws for each strip.

Incidently, Cherie's name CASmith brought back many great memories from my 13 months in the Orient many moons ago.  Her name (initials) matched the initials and last name of my very best buddy from that time. I sent a personal message to the lady hoping she might be related, who replied immediately that she is, indeed, no relation. I appreciated the promptness of reply even tho my tracking proved to have been uneventful.

Welcome aboard, Cherie. 
Tinker
 
Hi Cherie,

  Welcome to the forum!  [smile]

      This will be mounted on the bottom of an upper kitchen cabinet?  How deep (front to back ) is the cabinet?

        I am thinking adjustable height keyboard slides ...............  KV8150 for example. Available from many places online and in black or chrome. 12", 14", 16", 18", 20" depths.

Seth
 
Seth,
The cabinet is and upper kitchen cabinet and yes it will be mounted below/underneath the cabinet. The cabinet (outer box) is about 12 1/2 inches. The shelf to go under is 10 inches deep and will be centered under the box.
 
Suggestion - pick a hardwood that matches your cabinets, cut the shelf to the width you need, then cut risers that will cover the screws going up to the cabinet.  Domino and glue the risers to the shelf, then drill through the risers for the screws (a drill press would be the best option here).  Test the fit, then apply your choice of finish.  You get the picture. 
 
Give us a picture of the cabinet and the board, the tools you have available, and that will help with the suggestions.  If it were me, I'd get my board oversized, cut some lengths off the ends, and attach them to the base of the board as risers.  I'd attach the risers to the underside of the cabinet with L-brackets (no hardware visible).  Basically a three sided box.

Another option if you want a floating panel look.  Use long bolts as discussed in other suggestions, but in addition buy a length of ~1/4-3/8" inner diameter hollow metal tubing (round or square depending on style).  Cut four equal lengths to match the desired distance from the bottom of the cabinet, and cover your screws with the tubing.  Countersink the screw heads.  It will give a clean modern look.
 
Here's what I was going to post 7 hours ago but not knowing what equipment you had I decided to pull it at the last minute.

If this were my project, I'd cut two sides for the shelf 3" tall and the same length as the depth of the shelf. Mark 4 holes on the bottom of the shelf (2 on the left hand & 2 on the right hand) where they will be able to attach to the existing cabinet. The shelf can now be used as a template to pre drill the holes for attachment to the cabinet. The shelf can also be used as a template for drilling the deep holes to hold the 3" sides. Place the 3" sides on the shelf, line up the holes using 3 1/2"-4" flat head wood screws, align the screws with the predrilled holes in the bottom of the cabinet and by using as many sets of hands as available  [eek], support, hold, align and screw the fasteners home.

That way you have sides on the shelf to help prevent stuff from falling off while the back of the shelf is open for passage of the power cord to the devices.
 
Slightly off topic wrt your query. 

Just wondering: quite a confined space wrt heat dissipation. 
I'd be wanting small slots / holes in the board supporting the devices - to improve air circulation. 
(For eg only - maybe aluminium pegboard or similar?) 

Just me - don't know if really matters! 

Richard (UK)
 
fuzzy logic said:
Slightly off topic wrt your query. 

Just wondering: quite a confined space wrt heat dissipation. 
I'd be wanting small slots / holes in the board supporting the devices - to improve air circulation. 
(For eg only - maybe aluminium pegboard or similar?) 

Just me - don't know if really matters! 

Richard (UK)

Heat isn't an issue for charging small devices like phones and tablets.  Even full sized laptops are cool when charging.
 
Back
Top