CS 70....

[MichaelW2014]

Hello FOG. I have been enjoying my CS70 for some time now. Unfortunately two days ago the power on and off button became dysfunctional and now the machine is very dangerous because it turns on and off spontaneously at times. I have no idea what went wrong, it happened spontaneously while i was cutting acrylic.

Otherwise I love this little machine because I can get precise cuts on it.

I would like to know what others are using for clamps on this?

How are people using the t-slot track at the top of the miter fence?

I was wishing the fence were longer and more rigid, it does bend if too much force is place on it during cutting, if the fence is extended beyond say five inches from the miter guage part of the fence. What do you do to overcome this? Is there a better fence solution?

I have been using my grr-ripper 3d push-block combined with the standard push stick to guide wood through the cuts. The grr-ripper really only works if you have one for each hand. I find it very hard to get perfect cuts every time using one gripper and a push-stick. I pretty much assume that i have to cut two or three pieces to get one good one. I am talking about rabbet cuts on 1"x.75" sticks that are 24 inches long. i guess difficulty is to be expected on any machine when trying to do this kind of job. Obviously a router table would be better suited for this task--but I can't afford one right now.

I like the look of the jessem guides and wonder how well they work on this machine, if at all?

I'm using tenyru blades on my cs70 and they kick butt. The blade that the saw comes with is not good for small clean cuts, especially on pine.

That's about all I have for now. Looking forward to hearing for anyone, (Rattatouli?) who has this machine or the cs50 and can shed light on these points. Thanks

 

[AlexThePalex]

That's about all I have for now. Looking forward to hearing for anyone, (Rattatouli?) who has this machine or the cs50 and can shed light on these points. Thanks

Hi, Ratatouille here, or in human talk, Alex. I like my avatar because I think it's a great movie, and I had pet rats so I know the species very well.

Hello FOG. I have been enjoying my CS70 for some time now. Unfortunately two days ago the power on and off button became dysfunctional and now the machine is very dangerous because it turns on and off. I have no idea what went wrong, it happened spontaneously while i was cutting acrylic.

Things get broke sometimes. If your switch doesn't work anymore like it should, get a new one. The CS70 is kinda illegal on USA soil, so good luck with that. Since you managed to dig up a CS70 from somewhere in the first place, it shouldn't be that much of an accomplishment for you to find a new switch.

I would like to know what others are using for clamps on this?

I have one of the standard Festool clamps, and a quick clamp. Don't know their order numbers exactly right now. The quick clamp gets most use, and I am very happy with it, and with the fact that I can clamp down a piece on the table. Haven't used the CS70 all year, but I've been working on a garden fence I got from my neighbour, in the last weeks, and the CS70 was very useful, including the ability to clamp down my wood.

How are people using the t-slot track at the top of the miter fence?

Dunno about others, but I use it to clamp down wood I want to cut,.

I was wishing the fence were longer and more rigid, it does bend if too much force is place on it during cutting, if the fence is extended beyond say five inches from the miter guage part of the fence. What do you do to overcome this? Is there a better fence solution?

Besides the standard angle fence there's the CS 70LA fence, which is a longer version. I like the standard fence best. The standard angle unit really works best for me, and is pretty accurate for my needs. Do make care it makes exactly the right size for the cut. 

I'm using tenyru blades on my cs70 and they kick butt. The blade that the saw comes with is not good for small clean cuts, especially on pine.

Never had problems with the standard blade except that it dulls pretty quickly.

 

[Frank-Jan]

You can use the clamps that work with the guiderails in the slot on the table, I usually use the lever clamp.

The T-slot at the top of the miter fence can be used for stop flags, I often use the fence of my mft3 with it's stopflag, when I have to make repeated cuts of limited length, because it's a bit longer.

There's a ripfence available link. It clamps at the front AND at the back of the saw, and you can slide the auxiliary fence so, that it doesn't go past the centre of the blade to avoid kickback.
I don't use it that much, because it isn't that fast to install and take off as the standard fence, but if you need to put pressure towards the fence it won't deflect like the standard fence will.

I'm guessing the problem with the button is a broken wire in the cable, I would get it fixed asap.

 

[greg mann]

I have what is probably the OTHER CS70 in the States. I have a suspicion there is a certain bald guy in Indiana that has access to one but that could just be an unsubstantiated rumor. [bite tongue]

I do have the LA fence and like it a lot. I never need to worry about it deflecting under pressure and I like that I can slide the auxilliary fence even with the back of the blade. Just a few days ago I needed to rip some stickers for air-drying some lumber and there was a ton of stress let loose when the cuts were made. By pulling the aux. fence back the cut was able to open up without binding the blade. Most US fences don't accommodate this too easily.

If you can come up with the right extrusion to use as an auxilliary fence I am sure the Jessem guides would work very nicely. I have the router table versions and like them very much. If I can find the right extrusion (or maybe mill one myself) I will get a set. I do think the saw guides would solve much of what the OP felt it falls short on.

As much of a kick I get out of using this saw it is really a jobsite tool and is not in the same class as a good cabinet saw. It IS very versatile, with the unique ability to clamp the wood and move the blade it can actually replace a sliding miter saw, single bevel type anyways. Not great for miters on long stock, though.

 

[MichaelW2014]

That's about all I have for now. Looking forward to hearing for anyone, (Rattatouli?) who has this machine or the cs50 and can shed light on these points. Thanks

Hi, Ratatouille here, or in human talk, Alex. I like my avatar because I think it's a great movie, and I had pet rats so I know the species very well.

Hi Alex, my girlfriend calls me CM, that's short for Crack Mouse, so I guess we are kind of related. I like that movie too, I found it surpisingly good.

Hello FOG. I have been enjoying my CS70 for some time now. Unfortunately two days ago the power on and off button became dysfunctional and now the machine is very dangerous because it turns on and off. I have no idea what went wrong, it happened spontaneously while i was cutting acrylic.

Things get broke sometimes. If your switch doesn't work anymore like it should, get a new one. The CS70 is kinda illegal on USA soil, so good luck with that. Since you managed to dig up a CS70 from somewhere in the first place, it shouldn't be that much of an accomplishment for you to find a new switch.

yes, but i have had this saw for 6 months. Im in Greece, not the US. The saw is super dangerous right now because it turns on spontaneously. If I bump the table it can turn on. It's that easy to trigger the on switch.

I would like to know what others are using for clamps on this?

I have one of the standard Festool clamps, and a quick clamp. Don't know their order numbers exactly right now. The quick clamp gets most use, and I am very happy with it, and with the fact that I can clamp down a piece on the table. Haven't used the CS70 all year, but I've been working on a garden fence I got from my neighbour, in the last weeks, and the CS70 was very useful, including the ability to clamp down my wood.

How are people using the t-slot track at the top of the miter fence?

Dunno about others, but I use it to clamp down wood I want to cut,.

does it attack to the t-slot track at the top of the fence? i also bought one of the standard clamps and it doesn't fit into the t-slot track.

I was wishing the fence were longer and more rigid, it does bend if too much force is place on it during cutting, if the fence is extended beyond say five inches from the miter gauge part of the fence. What do you do to overcome this? Is there a better fence solution?

Besides the standard angle fence there's the CS 70LA fence, which is a longer version. I like the standard fence best. The standard angle unit really works best for me, and is pretty accurate for my needs. Do make care it makes exactly the right size for the cut. 

How come you don't like the long fence? Is it rigid? I dislike that the fence bends. I think that is an unacceptable design flaw for such an expensive machine.

I'm using tenyru blades on my cs70 and they kick butt. The blade that the saw comes with is not good for small clean cuts, especially on pine.

Never had problems with the standard blade except that it dulls pretty quickly.

good to hear from you!

 

[MichaelW2014]

You can use the clamps that work with the guiderails in the slot on the table, I usually use the lever clamp.

The T-slot at the top of the miter fence can be used for stop flags, I often use the fence of my mft3 with it's stopflag, when I have to make repeated cuts of limited length, because it's a bit longer.

yeah, i bought one, but of course it has a limited range. but i lost it anyhow. now i am just shaving pieces of wood down to .5mm difference or better by moving my piece of wood in extremely small increments. even with the stop flag, given how short the fence is, i would be doing the same. unless i get the longer fence or the rip fence attached the extension table that goes on the right side of the saw.

There's a ripfence available link. It clamps at the front AND at the back of the saw, and you can slide the auxiliary fence so, that it doesn't go past the centre of the blade to avoid kickback.
I don't use it that much, because it isn't that fast to install and take off as the standard fence, but if you need to put pressure towards the fence it won't deflect like the standard fence will.

I'm guessing the problem with the button is a broken wire in the cable, I would get it fixed asap.

yeah, it's probably a very minor electronic problem. i have made a video and sent it to the person who sold me the saw, a retailer in germany.

yeah, i need some of those add on parts, but i can't afford them right now. thanks

also, i took off the riving knife because i found that my small piece of wood would catch on it slightly which could cause me to make a bad cut.

and advice on this?

 

[MichaelW2014]

I have what is probably the OTHER CS70 in the States. I have a suspicion there is a certain bald guy in Indiana that has access to one but that could just be an unsubstantiated rumor. [bite tongue]

I do have the LA fence and like it a lot. I never need to worry about it deflecting under pressure and I like that I can slide the auxilliary fence even with the back of the blade. Just a few days ago I needed to rip some stickers for air-drying some lumber and there was a ton of stress let loose when the cuts were made. By pulling the aux. fence back the cut was able to open up without binding the blade. Most US fences don't accommodate this too easily.

what do you mean by "binding the blade"? I dont really understand what you are saying here. i want to understand, it sounds useful.

If you can come up with the right extrusion to use as an auxilliary fence I am sure the Jessem guides would work very nicely. I have the router table versions and like them very much. If I can find the right extrusion (or maybe mill one myself) I will get a set. I do think the saw guides would solve much of what the OP felt it falls short on.

If you get some extrusions made let me know, i will buy one from you. that could offset your cost of production. do you have easy access to a machine shop or do know someone who does custom aluminum extrusion?

As much of a kick I get out of using this saw it is really a jobsite tool and is not in the same class as a good cabinet saw. It IS very versatile, with the unique ability to clamp the wood and move the blade it can actually replace a sliding miter saw, single bevel type anyways. Not great for miters on long stock, though.

yes, it really is a job-site tool. but it doesn't have to be. it could also be an all purpose small home craft tool, which is what i am making of it. it just needs a couple of things, maybe, such as the ability to use the jessem parts, as you said.  i need to be able to make accurate cuts on small pieces of wood far more easily than i have experienced so far. if i can't get to this point, then i will have to buy a router table. but i would rather get a hammer jointer/planer next, so....

 

[MichaelW2014]

I do have the LA fence and like it a lot. I never need to worry about it deflecting under pressure and I like that I can slide the auxilliary fence even with the back of the blade. Just a few days ago I needed to rip some stickers for air-drying some lumber and there was a ton of stress let loose when the cuts were made. By pulling the aux. fence back the cut was able to open up without binding the blade. Most US fences don't accommodate this too easily.

please let me know if you have any ideas for adding a jessem compatible t-slot track or something to the top of the festool fence so that i could attach the clear cut guides. thanks

maybe i could just carve one out of wood? why not?

 

[AlexThePalex]

yes, but i have had this saw for 6 months. Im in Greece, not the US. The saw is super dangerous right now because it turns on spontaneously. If I bump the table it can turn on. It's that easy to trigger the on switch.

Your location in your profile says United States, therefore we assume you live there. To get the most useful advice it wisest to state your proper location.

As for the switch, I wouldn't use that anymore until it is repaired. Definitely unplug the saw when not in use. You can't have such a dangerous tool activate at the slightest touch.

How are people using the t-slot track at the top of the miter fence?

Dunno about others, but I use it to clamp down wood I want to cut,.

does it attack to the t-slot track at the top of the fence? i also bought one of the standard clamps and it doesn't fit into the t-slot track.

Sorry, I read that wrong, was late last night. The clamps indeed don't fit in there. You can fit a flag-stop in it, and you can use the t-slot track to attach the fence to the angle unit laying down for low-profile cuts. Very useful when cutting with the blade tilted. See pics.

[attachthumb=1]  [attachthumb=2]

How come you don't like the long fence? Is it rigid? I dislike that the fence bends. I think that is an unacceptable design flaw for such an expensive machine.

It is not that I don't like it, It's alright, but not super. I just use the angle unit CS 70 WA a lot more because it usually is enough for my needs. Most of the time I use the CS70 table only, without the extensions. Only when I install the table widener on the side to cut a bigger piece, then I use the longer fence LA. But one problem with the longer fence LA is that it is not automatically straight. It attaches on two sides of the table, and you always have to make sure both sides are lined up.

 

[MichaelW2014]

yes, but i have had this saw for 6 months. Im in Greece, not the US. The saw is super dangerous right now because it turns on spontaneously. If I bump the table it can turn on. It's that easy to trigger the on switch.

Your location in your profile says United States, therefore we assume you live there. To get the most useful advice it wisest to state your proper location.

sorry for the confusion.

As for the switch, I wouldn't use that anymore until it is repaired. Definitely unplug the saw when not in use. You can't have such a dangerous tool activate at the slightest touch.

my retailer hasn't responded yet. i can't not use the saw. i use it every day for work. i'll be ok. just have to be double cautious.

How are people using the t-slot track at the top of the miter fence?

Dunno about others, but I use it to clamp down wood I want to cut,.

does it attach to the t-slot track at the top of the fence? i also bought one of the standard clamps and it doesn't fit into the t-slot track.

Sorry, I read that wrong, was late last night. The clamps indeed don't fit in there. You can fit a flag-stop in it, and you can use the t-slot track to attach the fence to the angle unit laying down for low-profile cuts. Very useful when cutting with the blade tilted. See pics.

[attachthumb=1]  [attachthumb=2]

thanks. i forgot about this function. i think it will be very useful for the work i do.

How come you don't like the long fence? Is it rigid? I dislike that the fence bends. I think that is an unacceptable design flaw for such an expensive machine.

It is not that I don't like it, It's alright, but not super. I just use the angle unit CS 70 WA a lot more because it usually is enough for my needs. Most of the time I use the CS70 table only, without the extensions. Only when I install the table widener on the side to cut a bigger piece, then I use the longer fence LA. But one problem with the longer fence LA is that it is not automatically straight. It attaches on two sides of the table, and you always have to make sure both sides are lined up.

yeah, i really want that side table with fence for cutting sheets. i'll have to get it or the mft3 table with track saw at some point. right now, cutting sheets of anything sucks.

good info about the LA fence. thanks.

 

[MichaelW2014]

If you can come up with the right extrusion to use as an auxilliary fence I am sure the Jessem guides would work very nicely. I have the router table versions and like them very much. If I can find the right extrusion (or maybe mill one myself) I will get a set. I do think the saw guides would solve much of what the OP felt it falls short on.

on second thought, this doesn't seem too difficult to achieve. i will find the best nut and bolts to fit as snug as possible inside the t-slot on the festool miter fence. i will either drill holes into the t-slot track sold by jessem and attach it directly in this manner, which is unlikely, or i will have to bolt a piece of mdf to festool track and then attach, somehow, the jessem track to that, possibly with epoxy.

one could also use plexiglass or mdf parts to slide into the festool track but that might be more difficult. due to how small the track is, under .5" wide.