CT 33 and Clear Vue Mini CV06 WOW Now with Pictures!!

[dltflt]

No, I'm sure 1/2" would be plenty.  That's a good idea.

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Why not simply buy a metal drum that is intended for use as a dust bin for a cyclone?  I have no problems using my CT 22 (same CFM and static suction as CT 33) with any hose, and no problems if that inlet hose is blocked thus creating putting maximum vacuum within my Dust Deputy system.  Their metal drum is smaller than the blue medical waste drum tested in the above posts.  Have you considered use of a section of heavy walled tube that is used for winding carpeting, combined with a pair of shop-made ends of plywood sealed with closed cell foam tape set into a shallow routed groove?

Dave R.

 

[Terp]

 I think the top not being flat is a problem.  You need a flat surface to attach the CV06 to, at least an 8" diameter or so, & you'll bore a 2-1/2" hole in the center for the cyclone bottom.  With out a flat top I don't see how.  Even a plywood top would allow to much leakage.  Also, by lining the box you're losing alot of volume, why do that.  Don't try this with just the box as it will implode, seriously.
 How about just building a plywood box using baltic birch, this way the Domino can be employed.  I'm considering this as a last resort though since it seems like more work than I have the time for now.  I'll try one more trash can or so for now.

 

[nickao]

I agree but I just want to play around and make it work. I like the fact that the Festool box will plain look cool! If I wanted just a ply box to look at I could come up with a lot  of better ways to do it.

Same idea as a lot of guys on the forum going through all these procedures with the MFT and and squaring this or that. There are a million better ways to do stuff and 90% of the time I think why not use the table saw. It's because they want to test the capabilities and stretch the limit of the tool.

I could use a black marker to mark all my cases. It is  a lot simpler than what a lot of the guys have done to get the labels on the cases to stay, using plastic etc.

The point being I just want  to test the setup with the Festool systainer.

 

[Terp]

Why not simply buy a metal drum that is intended for use as a dust bin for a cyclone?  I have no problems using my CT 22 (same CFM and static suction as CT 33) with any hose, and no problems if that inlet hose is blocked thus creating putting maximum vacuum within my Dust Deputy system.  Their metal drum is smaller than the blue medical waste drum tested in the above posts.  Have you considered use of a section of heavy walled tube that is used for winding carpeting, combined with a pair of shop-made ends of plywood sealed with closed cell foam tape set into a shallow routed groove?

Dave R.

 Have not tried making a drum Dave but I think it would suck the foam out of the seam no matter what you do.  The CFM is real strong, & as soon as there is a slight leak it pulls in stronger in that area, like a flood gate.  Perhaps a caulk sealant would do best.  I'm hesitant to build anything experimental right now as this is getting to be trying.  I will go to a steel drum, but not a 55 gal., so I'll need to search for one.  I might try a fiber drum with steel rings top & bottom, though not to tall.  As soon as the opposite sides begin to pull in its over.  The container will fold flat, if any leak develops in it down low.  The white bucket I found on E-bay may work, I'll see.  I like the moulded rings in the body.  The guy says they were used to ship water, so I know they must be strong enough for that.  At least they won't explode with volume pressure, I'll find out about imploding under negative pressure.  They are only 22" tall & 20" wide, so if the wall thickness is good I think it'll work.

 

[Terp]

I agree but I just want to play around and make it work. I like the fast that the Festool box will plain look cool! If I wanted just a ply box to look at I could come up with a lot  of better ways to do it.

Same idea as a lot of guys on the forum going through all these procedures with the MFT and and squaring this or that. There are a milliopn better ways to do stuff and 90% of the time I think why not use the table saw. It's because they want to test the capabilities and stretch the limit of the tool.

I could use a black marker to mark all my cases. It is  a lot simpler than what a lot of the guys have done to get the labels on the cases to stay, using plastic etc.

The point being I just want  to test the setup with the Festool systainer.

  Good luck,
  Why not just use a hammer on your Systainer if you want to do this to it so badly.  Same results. 

Try lining it, I'm curious about the volume though, so fill us in on that.

  How will you work with the leaky top situation as it will not mate up well?

  If you do build a plywood box alone, you can paint it to match a systainer.  Latches are not needed either as you can not pick the lid up off the container you make.
  Oh & if you don't like the voice of reason, turn off the forum, go blow up your container & tell us about it later.  :

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Why not simply buy a metal drum that is intended for use as a dust bin for a cyclone?  I have no problems using my CT 22 (same CFM and static suction as CT 33) with any hose, and no problems if that inlet hose is blocked thus creating putting maximum vacuum within my Dust Deputy system.  Their metal drum is smaller than the blue medical waste drum tested in the above posts.  Have you considered use of a section of heavy walled tube that is used for winding carpeting, combined with a pair of shop-made ends of plywood sealed with closed cell foam tape set into a shallow routed groove?

Dave R.

 Have not tried making a drum Dave but I think it would suck the foam out of the seam no matter what you do.  The CFM is real strong, & as soon as there is a slight leak it pulls in stronger in that area, like a flood gate.  Perhaps a caulk sealant would do best.  I'm hesitant to build anything experimental right now as this is getting to be trying.  I will go to a steel drum, but not a 55 gal., so I'll need to search for one.  I might try a fiber drum with steel rings top & bottom, though not to tall.  As soon as the opposite sides begin to pull in its over.  The container will fold flat, if any leak develops in it down low.  The white bucket I found on E-bay may work, I'll see.  I like the moulded rings in the body.  The guy says they were used to ship water, so I know they must be strong enough for that.  At least they won't explode with volume pressure, I'll find out about imploding under negative pressure.  They are only 22" tall & 20" wide, so if the wall thickness is good I think it'll work.

I was thinking of use of adhesive backed foam tape, which would also be compressed in the groove to keep it in place.  The primary purpose of the adhesive is to hold the tape in place when you remove the lid.  The base can be sealed to the cylinder section with silicone caulk.  That is what Oneida provides with its commercial duty machines (I know because I have one and assembled it last Fall.)

Here's another possibility - start with one of those plastic pails in which drywall compound comes (only about 5 gal capacity!).  Since these pails have a slight taper from top to bottom, you can reinforce the interior using a pair or more of plywood rings that you simply slip into the pail to increase its resistance to collapse.

Dave R.

 

[dltflt]

Terp,
You have some very good points.  Getting the lid off or out of the way to get the container emptied would be a pain.  I not so sure the Systainer would collapse especially with the box inside.

The idea was to get a container that attaches to the DC to keep the unit mobile.  If you use any size drum that is not attached it will become a hassle to move around.

I had thought about the top not being flat enough and sealing tight enough, but what if you made a plywood top that had a 1/2" wide groove cut in the size of the Systainer.  The center of the groove would be the size of the Systainer then in that groove install a rubber seal.  For clamping that top to the Systainer I would use a draw latch Draw Latch and the latch could catch on the tabs for the standard lid latch.

 

[nickao]

I agree but I just want to play around and make it work. I like the fast that the Festool box will plain look cool! If I wanted just a ply box to look at I could come up with a lot  of better ways to do it.

Same idea as a lot of guys on the forum going through all these procedures with the MFT and and squaring this or that. There are a milliopn better ways to do stuff and 90% of the time I think why not use the table saw. It's because they want to test the capabilities and stretch the limit of the tool.

I could use a black marker to mark all my cases. It is  a lot simpler than what a lot of the guys have done to get the labels on the cases to stay, using plastic etc.

The point being I just want  to test the setup with the Festool systainer.

  Good luck,
  Why not just use a hammer on your Systainer if you want to do this to it so badly.  Same results. 

Try lining it, I'm curious about the volume though, so fill us in on that.

  How will you work with the leaky top situation as it will not mate up well?

  If you do build a plywood box alone, you can paint it to match a systainer.  Latches are not needed either as you can not pick the lid up off the container you make.
  Oh & if you don't like the voice of reason, turn off the forum, go blow up your container & tell us about it later.  :

I think a picture of a blown up systainer would be awesome!

 

[Dan Clark]

John,  Terp,

Many thanks for the efforts.  I can now award you the coveted and oh-ficial:

Regards,

Dan.

 

[Terp]

Thank you Dan,
  I'd like to thank my Mother & Father for giving me the camera, & my wife for enduring my festoolishness.............. ;D

 

[Mahogany Man]

I gotta agree, an imploded Systainer would be a great vision! ;D
Terp:
You are correct, any leak and it is worse at that area.
The barrel I used is a heavy duty Pharmaceutical container, (they both contained drug in powder form, before being made into pills)
I chose these drums because the top seals Extremely tight, with a silicon seal, and locking ring.
The side walls are 1/8" thick, and almost impossible to push in by hand!!
That is.........until you hook them up to a suction 
I have to agree with Terp, I can't see the Systainer working, but I can also agree with the attempt.......I know what it's like to get an
idea in this thick skull
I have a used barrel distributor in my area, they have a ton of different open head barrels, both plastic and steel.
I am taking a ride tomorrow in the morning, to get my third, and hopefully final barrel

 

[dltflt]

Hard headed, you must know me.  I always have to find out for myself if my ideas will work or not.  This time it looks like Nickao is going to take the idea to fruition before I will.  The clear-vue is on my list of things to buy and I would like to incorporate it on my CT 33.  You really don't know if something will work until you try it.

 

[jmelson]

I have a Dust Deputy in front of my CT 33 and had it mounted on a 5gal joint compound pail. The first time that I dead headed the suction hose, the bucket collapsed. I went to HD and bought 2 of the opaque 5 gallon pails in the paint dept. I then cut the bottom off one of the pails ,cutting the side wall. Then cut the top of the pail just below the bottom reinforcing ring. This left me with an insert to put in the other pail. I put a ring of clear silicone around the out side of the insert about an inch above the bottom edge and another about three quarters of the way up from the bottom, slid the insert into the whole bucket and tapped it down with a wooden block, let it set over night and now I have a bucket with double the wall thickness. My DD sets on top and the pail does not collapse and an added bonus, I can see the level of sawdust through the side of the bucket.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I went to HD and bought 2 of the opaque 5 gallon pails in the paint dept....and now I have a bucket with double the wall thickness.....I can see the level of sawdust through the side of the bucket.

You can?!

 

[Terp]

I have a Dust Deputy in front of my CT 33 and had it mounted on a 5gal joint compound pail. The first time that I dead headed the suction hose, the bucket collapsed. I went to HD and bought 2 of the opaque 5 gallon pails in the paint dept. I then cut the bottom off one of the pails ,cutting the side wall. Then cut the top of the pail just below the bottom reinforcing ring. This left me with an insert to put in the other pail. I put a ring of clear silicone around the out side of the insert about an inch above the bottom edge and another about three quarters of the way up from the bottom, slid the insert into the whole bucket and tapped it down with a wooden block, let it set over night and now I have a bucket with double the wall thickness. My DD sets on top and the pail does not collapse and an added bonus, I can see the level of sawdust through the side of the bucket.

Hi,
  I thought the Dust Deputy comes attached to a container already.  It can't be smaller than 5 gallons, so why change to the 5 gallon paint bucket?  I like the creative thinking with the buckets though.  Good job, but why?

 

[Corwin]

.. and an added bonus, I can see the level of sawdust through the side of the bucket.

Great!  I was thinking of making a bucket out of the same clear material that the ClearVue cyclones are made with for that very reason.  Wish they offered products like this to complete the system.

 

[Terp]

   I just purchased a plastic shipping bucket on E-bay.
Here's a link to that page.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=220213117328&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=012

  I hope this works we'll see.  The lid will receive a plywood ring on the under side, to mount the CV06 & stiffen the lid.  The bucket looks quite stout, yet we'll see.   :

  Hey guys, I just got the bucket I purchased on E-bay over the weekend.  I've never seen these before, but I'm confident this will work.  I know, famous last words. 
  This thing is real thick walled & very hard/rigid.  The lid may or may not work, but the container is perfect.  A lid can be made, if need be.  I'll work on it this week, as I'm allowed, & let ya'all know how it goes.
  The bucket cost $12.00 on E-bay & was pick up only, but if it works I'l go collect a few more to distribute. 

BTW, to the writer of the last post, Corwin.
  I have the ClearVue CV06 myself & it's great, so is Ed Morgano, the manufacturer of them.  He hadn't ever hooked this up to a Festool DC before, from what I gathered.  I initially called to make sure the hoses would fit up.  I worked with both Ed & Timmy the Festool dude at Festool Junkies that day.  Timmy it turned out had just purchased the CV06, so he checked the fittings.  The hoses mated up perfectly so I bought one, but Ed himself wasn't sure.  That said, I'm sure the shop vac he demonstrates the CV06 on generates no where near the CFM of a CT33.  He shows it on top of a 5 gallon paint pail.
  I was afraid of this when I ordered, yet I liked the CV06 for so many reasons I bought it.  The main reason is the adaptability to mount different ways, sort of like an incomplete kit.  Other than that it was because of the clear body.  You can see that it is working & working well.  If you stop generating waste into the vacuum stream & look at the CV06, you'll see no waste in the cyclone funnel, it's cleared.  It all drops into the bucket.
  The great part about that is when it gets to full, you'll know it.  You will see that the hose to the vacuum, out of the cyclone top, begins to pull debris from the bucket itself, through the cyclone.  So that even when you have stopped your machining, you will seed waste in the cyclone funnel.
  The CV06 is fantastic, it's just that on top of the powerhouse Festool CT's, at 134 CFM, it needs a worthy container.  Personally, I think we're on to something good with this setup.  It only needs the right vessel for the bottom.
  I plan to share this experience with Ed, as I told him I would, so that he may perhaps provide a container for the CV06 in the future as an option.  I already told him he needs to get a CT33 & see for himself.  Then he can cater to us nuts.  ;D
 

 

[Ned]

... he needs to get a CT33 & see for himself. ...

The CT22 and CT33 are mechanically and electrically identical.  They differ only in the size of the bag cavity, the bags used, and a little storage compartment on the front.  Basically, one plastic spacer that makes the body taller.  In Europe, they offer CT44s and even CT55s, which differ only in having additional spacers for even bigger bags.

If you're using a cyclone,  much of the waste will be going into the external drum.  Unless you have a really high volume of waste getting past and into the CT, a CT22 would be lower initial cost with identical performance.

Ned

 

[Steve Jones]

interesting point you raise Ned - I'd noticed that apparent plastic insert being the diferrence - I could get tempted into spending the extra $60.00 for a plastic insert with a storage box (I guess in line with festools prices, they don't give this stuff away) is that section removable?

For example could I have the CT33 in the shop but remove the extra piece and take it as a CT22 on site (I guess slightly smaller and better able to fit in my tiny, overloaded vehicle)