Curly, Burly Maple Box with Finger Joints

DavidCBaker

Member
Joined
May 31, 2010
Messages
537
I hope these project documentations aren't boring you folks, but I enjoy doing it?and it helps me think through things logically. If all the steps are boring, just skip to the last picture, which is the end result of all this.

I wanted to make a nice box for a Christmas present, so I bought some curly maple for the box proper and some burl maple for the lid. I seem to like making lids first, maximizing the wood, and then making a box to fit it. Weird, I know.

Here's the piece of burl. I don't have a jointer, so I have to make do, creating (what I hope is) a square edge and then referencing off that.

01.jpg


I don't have a band saw, either, unfortunately, so this is how I split the piece, by cutting at the max depth of my TS, four times:

02.jpg


And then cutting the small center piece that remained by hand:

03.jpg


I ended up with two pieces, each an inch thick, but only used one for this project:

04.jpg


Then to the thickness planer. (Is this thing a good value or what? I'm impressed with how well this DeWalt works, especially for the price.)

05.jpg


Then sanding the "blank" to get it all smooth.

06.jpg


Next it was time to take the curly maple to the thickness planer:

07.jpg


Then to the Kapex to get a square edge:

08.jpg


And then cutting the four sides out so that I can get a nice grain pattern all the way around:

09.jpg


Next it was time to set up the 1400 router to use with the VS-600 to create finger joints. It starts with using the right copy ring (part no. 492-180) and mounting the right bit, the carbide part no. 490-980 that matches with the FZ 10 template (part no. 488-880). The router has to be plunged all the way down (AFTER the copy ring is mounted). Then loosen the black, long knob and move the adjuster all the way down:

11.jpg


Then loosen the adjuster clamp and slide the piece you'll be routing between the two so that you can get the exact depth set appropriately. I don't know if the rest of you do this, but I've found it to be a quick shortcut:

12.jpg


Flip the template down so that it just touches the right side of the black plastic arrow, then lift it again. As I mentioned above, this is the FZ 10 template, which is the larger of the two templates that make finger joints:

13.jpg


Then flip the template up and align the two sides (these are test pieces), one against the finger and one against the knob, like this:

14.jpg


15.jpg


In both cases you'll need a backing board that is THICKER than the depth you'll be routing or you'll end up with aluminum everywhere!  [big grin]

Then flip the template back down like this:

16.jpg


And route the slots. I've found that this is the most efficient dust collection method:

17.jpg


When you're done it looks like this. Notice the offset slots. In all cases, the top of the side pieces should be against the outside of the template, and the two outside faces of the side pieces should be against each other (in other words, the inside edges of the side pieces are facing out):

18.jpg


Now the exciting part starts: a dry fitting.

19.jpg


Then glue up:

20.jpg


Then "rounding over" the top and dadoing a slot in the bottom:

21.jpg


I glued two strips onto the bottom against which I glued the bottom shelf:

22.jpg


Then final sanding:

23.jpg


Four coats of satin finish:

24.jpg


And the final project. I was very happy with it. I still made a couple mistakes, but I at least know what mistakes I'm making, which is progress.  [tongue]

final.jpg
 
Thanks, guys. I sure enjoyed it. It's therapeutic for me, and goodness knows I need therapy! ;D
 
Peter Halle said:
David,
[thumbs up]
You do beautiful work!

Thanks, Peter. That two-day class I took at Festool HQ was a real confidence booster for me. Suddenly I wasn't afraid of the tools. I will say, though, that the VS-600 is very difficult to figure out, but once you do, it's fast.
 
David,

I really enjoyed the photo essay, and the end project. The box looks excellent. I have two small suggestions as to how you can improve it which I hope you will not take the wrong way.

The first is instead of gluing a bottom on, cut a dado 1/4" from the bottom on the inside of all four sides before glue-up. Then slide a bottom in and assemble the box. Leave a tiny space to allow for glue expansion. It also feels nicer when you pick it up to have that small lip on the underside and it looks cleaner than using glue blocks, especially for a small box.

Also, chamfer the edges with a block plane, not a sander. A block plane will leave a straight edge (like an octagonal corner) which is an additional facet for light to reflect off. It need only be a millimetre wide but it will be noticeable. Using a sander will round over the edge which will not reflect light well. I learnt this at a class I took recently and it really works. I use it for shelf fronts, drawer edges, everything now.

Richard.
 
Another great project David!  Some lucky person is going to get a wonderful gift.

Most amazing to me is that you did this without a jointer or a bandsaw.  Hope they are on your short list - they will really add a lot of capability to your shop.

Thanks for documenting your process.
 
Feedback is always welcome, Richard.

On the bottom, I thought about doing that but went the lazy route. Because of the finger joints I couldn't have run the dado all the way to each edge but would have had to "stop" it and didn't want to mess with setting it up. But it would have looked better, for sure.

On the second suggestion, are you talking about the four vertical edges of the box itself?
 
Jesse Cloud said:
Another great project David!  Some lucky person is going to get a wonderful gift.

Most amazing to me is that you did this without a jointer or a bandsaw.  Hope they are on your short list - they will really add a lot of capability to your shop.

Thanks for documenting your process.

Thanks, Jesse. Yes, the band saw is the next on the list. I think I'll find great uses for it.
 
Yes, David, the four vertical edges, but also the tops of the box sides. It's a little detail but it really helps. It will also help stop the wood splintering. 

I just looked at your photos again. Man, you really got that birds eye maple to pop! What grit did you sand it to before applying the finish. I am having problems with tearout on a panel I am working on.

Richard.
 
I want from 80 to 180 to 400. But honestly, I think it's more the finish than the grit. That product is turning into a favorite.
 
I really enjoy your complete project posts David.  I just now became aware that you are a writer which probably accounts for the completeness of details that you share. Very good.

I was looking at your new book on Amazon -- I think that is the first time that I've seen an entire book available on the "Look Inside".  [huh]
Have you considered making it available on Kindle?  I was a manager most of my career, mostly managing engineering groups.  Your book is right on target & excellent for young managers starting out.  I'll probably get a copy for my son although he likes his reading to be on Kindle when available.  Great job!  You have many talents.
 
Ron, I haven't had it converted to Kindle yet--should be soon, though. If you want, PM me your son's address and I'll send him an autographed copy gratis.

And thanks for your kind remarks.
 
Is that coming out softcover? I would love to read it, even though I work alone now I still would like to manage myself. Who knows maybe someday I will be managing jobs again.
 
If it comes out in paperback, it'll be a good indication that it's a fabulous success, so I certainly hope so!  ;D
 
Great looking box.  You do a fantastic job in guiding how you've accomplished your projects. I'm very appreciative of you showing the steps along the way. Thanks for taking the extra care as I can imagine this takes a fair bit of time.

Mark
 
I see you used an airbrush for the finish. Did you have to thin the product? And what psi did you set it at? Lastly, did you apply a shellac undercoat or something else, or nothing at all?

Thanks, this info will be really useful.

 
Richard, that's actually just an air nozzle to blow off the dust after I've sanded between coats. Each coat is applied with a foam brush, which cleans up with water and can be reused. I didn't put any undercoat on it, though the burl maple could have used it. It soaked the first coat up like a sponge.
 
Back
Top