cut through metal of stop ruler on MFT3

[paulhtremblay]

I made a mistake when using my MFT3 table. I had extended the stop ruler past the cutting edge of the guide rail, and cut partially through it with my TS55 track saw. Surprisingly, the saw did not strain, and I only knew what I had done by the fine metal flying up. There seems to be no damage to the saw blade. The saw continues to work excellently.

Any suggestions as to what I should do now? Should I continue using the blade? Does anyone know how I can purchase just a new top ruler (though even that piece seems to still function)?

 

[semenza]

Call Festool service and ask to purchase the replacement part.

As long as the blade is cutting fine and you don't see any damage it should be good to go.

Seth

 

[tiralie]

I made a mistake when using my MFT3 table. I had extended the stop ruler past the cutting edge of the guide rail, and cut partially through it with my TS55 track saw.

Welcome to the club...

Any suggestions as to what I should do now?

Keep it as a reminder not to do it again.

Should I continue using the blade?

Check it visually, but it should be good. I have cut my SS ruler and mine still worked fine...

Does anyone know how I can purchase just a new top ruler (though even that piece seems to still function)?

The part name is a Stop Profile, the part # is 475217,  it costs $57.63 USD according to Ekat

 

[wow]

I haven't done that exact thing (since I don't own an MFT) but let's just say that I have found Festool blades to be quite resilient and of very high quality.

[wink]

No worries! Unless you notice a degradation in the cut quality, I'd keep using the blade until it finally does need sharpening.

 

[roblg3]

I did it too....I beveled the saw and cut a beautifully smooth angle on the very end of the aluminum stop.  I haven't noticed any negative effects on my cuts in AA face plywood while making my cabinets.  As long as the cuts remain smooth there is no issue.

I agree that looking at the accidentally cut end is a good reminder of where to place the end of the stop when setting up the MFT!

BTW you will not be the last person to do this.  Thanks for posting

 

[festoolviking]

+1 for me. I had my ruler set up close to the splinter-guard when I decided to make a bevel cut.  [oops]  The blade has been working fine ever since. This is how I "upgraded" my ruler to avoid it again:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ccis7xbgj59z5by/Photo%202014-07-30%2011%2049%2011.jpg

Festoolviking

 

[peter halle]

You can certainly purchase a replacement part but no really don't need to - unless you cut a significant part off partially.  Just depends on if you use the flag stop and you need the length.  If partially cut and hanging on, just go ahead and cut the dangler off.  Many of us, included me have done that.

When setting up your MFT to make cuts Steve Bace makes some recommendations on setting the rails and fences in these great videos.

Rail - front to back - Watch the whole thing or fast forward to about the 5:40 mark.



Fence:  Start at the beginning



Peter

 

[tjbnwi]

This is one I did on purpose (unlike my guide rail). I bolted the fence to the MFT, cut threw it. I like having the support on the off cut side.

The aluminum has no affect on the blade. It is softer than some of the wood I cut.

Tom

 

[dltflt]

I have cut aluminum with my Kapex with no damage.  The blade still cuts great.

 

[Mickfb]

HA HA I have done it as well. I thought it was part of the setup procedure  [big grin]

 

[grbmds]

I can't imagine that the blade would be damaged from one cut in aluminum. I cut some Incra track to size for the Rip Stops I bought. There was no noticeable difference in performance of the blade. This wouldn't be much different that what I did on purpose. As for the fence, that probably is up to you unless it's damaged enough to interfere with your work.

 

[Wenyce]

This is one I did on purpose (unlike my guide rail). I bolted the fence to the MFT, cut threw it. I like having the support on the off cut side.

The aluminum has no affect on the blade. It is softer than some of the wood I cut.

Tom

I like the support on the other side as well, never thought about bolting it though, good tip thanks

 

[tjbnwi]

This is one I did on purpose (unlike my guide rail). I bolted the fence to the MFT, cut threw it. I like having the support on the off cut side.

The aluminum has no affect on the blade. It is softer than some of the wood I cut.

Tom

I like the support on the other side as well, never thought about bolting it though, good tip thanks

I have another MFT, if I need to cut angles I use it.

Tom

 

[paulhtremblay]

I have cut aluminum with my Kapex with no damage.  The blade still cuts great.

Nice idea with the guide rail. Is the kerf wide enough that you don't have to worry about going through metal when cutting something else?

The softness of the aluminum makes sense for two reasons. First, my saw cut through it like pine. The saw has struggled more with some sheet goods than that metal.

I imagined that my mistake is quite common, and for that reason, changed the working of my post from "dumb mistake" to just "mistake." The posts confirmed my suspicion. Given the mistake's commonness, I figured Festool would anticipate it.