Cutting 1/8" strips on table saw
- Thread starter lambeater
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Hi Lambeater
I use a lot of edging/inlay that I make up myself on my table saw. My strips are usually about 1/8" square (3-4mm). I cut from stock that is at least 6" longer than the strips that I need as sometimes the last few inches can be inaccurate. I do not use any jig, I keep the blade guard in place and have a scrap piece of wood as a push stick - the push stick is going to get really hammered hence the scrap piece of wood.
When the tail end of the stock is going past the blade, about the time that the push stick starts to get hit, I pull the stock from beyond the blade to get it through safely. I will attach a picture of a box with some inlay showing.
Good luck.
Peter
**** I forgot to mention ****
Since I got my CMS unit with the TS55R it has become so easy to do really accurate inlay strips. The old table saw is now history!
************************
I use a lot of edging/inlay that I make up myself on my table saw. My strips are usually about 1/8" square (3-4mm). I cut from stock that is at least 6" longer than the strips that I need as sometimes the last few inches can be inaccurate. I do not use any jig, I keep the blade guard in place and have a scrap piece of wood as a push stick - the push stick is going to get really hammered hence the scrap piece of wood.
When the tail end of the stock is going past the blade, about the time that the push stick starts to get hit, I pull the stock from beyond the blade to get it through safely. I will attach a picture of a box with some inlay showing.
Good luck.
Peter
**** I forgot to mention ****
Since I got my CMS unit with the TS55R it has become so easy to do really accurate inlay strips. The old table saw is now history!
************************
tjbnwi
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It has gotten to the point where I very rarely use my table saw. I would make these rips on the MFT with my TS. Here is how I do it, just adjust your spacer width;
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/how-i-rip-ff-and-door-pieces/
There is also a post on how I rip pieces without the MFT in the Jigs/Tool Enhancement set ion of the forum.
Tom
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/how-i-rip-ff-and-door-pieces/
There is also a post on how I rip pieces without the MFT in the Jigs/Tool Enhancement set ion of the forum.
Tom
Peter James
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Micro Jig GR-200?
builderbob
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- Feb 17, 2007
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+2 (hands) for the Grippr!!
Bob
Bob
PaulMarcel
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I usually cut thin strips like that on the offcut side of the blade. I have a magnetic feather board; I put it backwards so I can use the back of it as a fence on the left side of the blade. After each cut, scoot the main fence over until the stock touches the back of the feather board. It's quick and even works on thinner cuts.
E
ericbuggeln
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Rockler makes a cheap jig for the method Paul explains. Material bumps up against ball bearing. Eric
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It's super easy with a sliding table saw and a short fence. I have also ripped multiple thin strips like that with the fence set to 1/8" and a push stick with a notch cut into it to push both the 1/8" piece and the offcut past the blade. Keep the push block against the fence and carry it and the stock right past the back of the blade.
Thanks for the ideas guys. Ended up making a melamine jig that sits over the blade with and extra fence on the side. I did forget to mention that I was ripping bamboo lumber for cabinet edges, seems to peel away from the blade nice and cleanly. Also glues real nice on cabinet edges, and only need to hold in place with masking tape while setting up.
Lambeater.
Lambeater.
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Lambeater, next time you're by a local Woodcraft, Rockler or good independent retailer, check out the Micro Jig in person. See the video we have setup here. It's a very cool accessory, super safe, and inexpensive to boot. They've been a hit since their introduction, I think about a year now.
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A very safe and simple jig will do this.
For strips 3' long, start with a scrap piece of ply or particle board about 4' long and about 6" wide. Across the back end, attach a support strip, or heel, the same thickness as the main board, and let it overhang the left side (assuming your saw's fence is to the right of the blade) by about 1/4".
To use it, set it tight to the saw's fence, and position the fence so that left edge of the jig is 1/8" from the blade. Place your stock against the jig and tight to the heel and run the whole thing along the fence with the heel pushing the stock thru. With the first cut, the heel will be cut to an overhang equal to your strips. Your hands need not come anywhere near the blade, and you can cut sucessive strips without adjusting the fence-to-blade distance.
A hand grip on the main board can be a simple cleat screwed to its upper face.
For strips 3' long, start with a scrap piece of ply or particle board about 4' long and about 6" wide. Across the back end, attach a support strip, or heel, the same thickness as the main board, and let it overhang the left side (assuming your saw's fence is to the right of the blade) by about 1/4".
To use it, set it tight to the saw's fence, and position the fence so that left edge of the jig is 1/8" from the blade. Place your stock against the jig and tight to the heel and run the whole thing along the fence with the heel pushing the stock thru. With the first cut, the heel will be cut to an overhang equal to your strips. Your hands need not come anywhere near the blade, and you can cut sucessive strips without adjusting the fence-to-blade distance.
A hand grip on the main board can be a simple cleat screwed to its upper face.
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