cutting 45 degrees with the TS75 is not 45

[Disappointed]

I spent almost $2,000 on the TS75, track and accessories to make slab tables with the cascading legs. Unlike every other circular saw, it only adjusts as far as 45 degrees so you have to rely on it being perfectly accurate but then it's Festool so you would expect it to exactly that. Not the case. If anyone out there has ever tried to get a 90 degree join with the TS75  cutting at the furtherest reach of adjustment they will know that it is not square. How a company with a reputation like Festool can produce such an inadequate saw is beyond me.
After wasting an incredible amount of time trying to convince Festool to get out of their office and put a square on 2 pieces of timber they cut with their saw, they finally conceded that their two 45 degree cuts  did not make 90 degrees. Un freaking believable!
This was their solution to the problem "The 45 degree stopper on the TS 75 is adjustable. At the top of the black plastic angle segments are small Allen head grub screws, you can see these looking from the blade side of the saw.  If you screw these out a bit it will go beyond 45 degrees.  I'm not sure that it will go all the way to 47, but you'll get something." Give me my Makita anyday!

 

[peter halle]

Sorry for your disappointment.  Adjusting a saw is a normal thing.  Sure it would be great to get a perfect one out of the plastic box, but sometimes stuff happens (just watch the news).

There is a great supplemental manual for the TS-55 on FestoolUSA.com that can you guide you thru how to make the adjustment.  Although not written for the TS-75, it is the same procedure as depicted.

If you are within the return period for your country you can always return / exchange your saw.  Unfortunately other stuff considered accessories may not be returnable.

Hope you get this squared away.

Peter

 

[Disappointed]

Yes adjusting a tool is a normal thing and it would be normal to adjust it to the 45 mark to get a 45 degree cut! Can u tell me firstly why it is not accurately set at 45? And secondly what is the grub screw for? It would appear to be there to set the blade at an angle that prevents my cascading legs being directly vertical???
And no being left with almost $1,000 of extremely expensive accessories is not a suitable option, though a refund on just the saw would get me 2 Dewalt saws with the tracks included. It’s been a very expensive, time consuming lesson. Never ever again!

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

....Like this I assume you mean..?

[attachimg=1] 

This was cut with a TS75....I do it quite regularly and never had any issues.

Perhaps it's your technique at fault...?

 

[mrboult]

I’m sorry you got a saw that wasn’t set correctly. That’s frustrating. But jeez, either set it up/adjust it correctly yourself or have Festool collect and adjust it under warranty.

You think we’re all happy paying top dollar for saws that don’t cut at 45 accurately. . Well it’s true! I just buy festool cos I like that new festool smell.

 

[rubber_ducky]

I think it’s both funny and sad, that people will go through the effort of registering at this site for the sole purpose of groaning. In this case the OP even created a user name to doubly express his/her dissatisfaction.

Perhaps spending time on this site prior to dropping the equivalent of x saws from y brand would’ve helped avoid an expensive mistake.

That said, this isn’t a festool thing... every enthusiast site has some level of “if I spend $x things should be different in this way...”

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Disappointed]

....Like this I assume you mean..?

[attachimg=1] 

This was cut with a TS75....I do it quite regularly and never had any issues.

Perhaps it's your technique at fault...?
Well the sales rep did the cutting so it’s either her technique or a dud.

 

[Disappointed]

I think it’s both funny and sad, that people will go through the effort of registering at this site for the sole purpose of groaning. In this case the OP even created a user name to doubly express his/her dissatisfaction.

Perhaps spending time on this site prior to dropping the equivalent of x saws from y brand would’ve helped avoid an expensive mistake.

That said, this isn’t a festool thing... every enthusiast site has some level of “if I spend $x things should be different in this way...”

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I think it both funny and sad that people have enough time to label themselves names like rubber ducky and spend time in front of a screen, but to do it to comment on other peoples problems is just plain sad. What, all caught up with “Days Of Our Lives”?

 

[Disappointed]

I’m sorry you got a saw that wasn’t set correctly. That’s frustrating. But jeez, either set it up/adjust it correctly yourself or have Festool collect and adjust it under warranty.

You think we’re all happy paying top dollar for saws that don’t cut at 45 accurately. . Well it’s true! I just buy festool cos I like that new festool smell.
649 posts and I bet they are all as pathetic as this one. Mate u need to get outside more.

 

[FestitaMakool]

Are you sure that you received a saw that has NOT been out of the box since it left the factory? Many buy and return new stuff, including tools and then return them for some reason. Ok, it might not have been used, but it sure could have been fiddled with.

I’ve seen this myself, even on new stuff. I try buying used tools as well, and 9 out of 10 times the tool needs seeing after, including calibrating and adjusting.
I’ve looked at Makita’s plunge saw, and I think it has the same adjustment possibilities (professional tools do often have that). Chances are that you may receive a tool
that has been tampered or fiddled with. I think the Makita is equally as good as Festools saw. But unless you see the tool all the way from factory or they’re not sealed - you’ll have to check calibration.

 

[Disappointed]

Are you sure that you received a saw that has NOT been out of the box since it left the factory? Many buy and return new stuff, including tools and then return them for some reason. Ok, it might not have been used, but it sure could have been fiddled with.

I’ve seen this myself, even on new stuff. I try buying used tools as well, and 9 out of 10 times the tool needs seeing after, including calibrating and adjusting.
I’ve looked at Makita’s plunge saw, and I think it has the same adjustment possibilities (professional tools do often have that). Chances are that you may receive a tool
that has been tampered or fiddled with. I think the Makita is equally as good as Festools saw. But unless you see the tool all the way from factory or they’re not sealed - you’ll have to check calibration.
Well the calibration has been checked and the best Festool can come up with is to remove the grub screw to go over  the 45 mark. I am just stunned that they are not concerned that the cut they did with their tool set to 45 is not square. What else can I possibly do but get on here and whinge? I am truly mystified! is it possible that it can be our excessively hard timbers here in Western Australia or the blade? I do appreciate your response. It has been the only one of any logic so far.

 

[Naildrivingman]

Are you sure that you received a saw that has NOT been out of the box since it left the factory? Many buy and return new stuff, including tools and then return them for some reason. Ok, it might not have been used, but it sure could have been fiddled with.

I’ve seen this myself, even on new stuff. I try buying used tools as well, and 9 out of 10 times the tool needs seeing after, including calibrating and adjusting.
I’ve looked at Makita’s plunge saw, and I think it has the same adjustment possibilities (professional tools do often have that). Chances are that you may receive a tool
that has been tampered or fiddled with. I think the Makita is equally as good as Festools saw. But unless you see the tool all the way from factory or they’re not sealed - you’ll have to check calibration.
Well the calibration has been checked and the best Festool can come up with is to remove the grub screw to go over  the 45 mark. I am just stunned that they are not concerned that the cut they did with their tool set to 45 is not square. What else can I possibly do but get on here and whinge? I am truly mystified! is it possible that it can be our excessively hard timbers here in Western Australia or the blade? I do appreciate your response. It has been the only one of any logic so far.

Did the rep attempt the cut on the same hard wood you refer to?  I can tell you from personal experience that extremely hard woods, a duller blade and too much pressure behind the cut can change the bevel.

I can’t recall for certain, but in my experience I believe the bevel decreased from 0 to -1 to -3 degrees. If my recollection is correct, that would be the same as what you are experiencing. I suggest getting a softer wood, a really sharp blade and slow, even hand pressure. If you get the same results, it has to be the saw.

Good luck.

 

[Birdhunter]

To me, cutting a thick slab of hard wood to make a furniture quality cut is a job for a stout powerful table saw and not a hand held circular saw. Even with my 2HP table saw, I’d make a proud cut then a finish cut.

 

[Disappointed]

To me, cutting a thick slab of hard wood to make a furniture quality cut is a job for a stout powerful table saw and not a hand held circular saw. Even with my 2HP table saw, I’d make a proud cut then a finish cut.
Thanks, I think youre on the money.

 

[Disappointed]

Are you sure that you received a saw that has NOT been out of the box since it left the factory? Many buy and return new stuff, including tools and then return them for some reason. Ok, it might not have been used, but it sure could have been fiddled with.

I’ve seen this myself, even on new stuff. I try buying used tools as well, and 9 out of 10 times the tool needs seeing after, including calibrating and adjusting.
I’ve looked at Makita’s plunge saw, and I think it has the same adjustment possibilities (professional tools do often have that). Chances are that you may receive a tool
that has been tampered or fiddled with. I think the Makita is equally as good as Festools saw. But unless you see the tool all the way from factory or they’re not sealed - you’ll have to check calibration.
Well the calibration has been checked and the best Festool can come up with is to remove the grub screw to go over  the 45 mark. I am just stunned that they are not concerned that the cut they did with their tool set to 45 is not square. What else can I possibly do but get on here and whinge? I am truly mystified! is it possible that it can be our excessively hard timbers here in Western Australia or the blade? I do appreciate your response. It has been the only one of any logic so far.

Did the rep attempt the cut on the same hard wood you refer to?  I can tell you from personal experience that extremely hard woods, a duller blade and too much pressure behind the cut can change the bevel.

I can’t recall for certain, but in my experience I believe the bevel decreased from 0 to -1 to -3 degrees. If my recollection is correct, that would be the same as what you are experiencing. I suggest getting a softer wood, a really sharp blade and slow, even hand pressure. If you get the same results, it has to be the saw.

Good luck.
Yes the rep had the same trouble with the same hard wood but no explanation. Your explanation I do believe is right. Thanks again.

 

[Naildrivingman]

Are you sure that you received a saw that has NOT been out of the box since it left the factory? Many buy and return new stuff, including tools and then return them for some reason. Ok, it might not have been used, but it sure could have been fiddled with.

I’ve seen this myself, even on new stuff. I try buying used tools as well, and 9 out of 10 times the tool needs seeing after, including calibrating and adjusting.
I’ve looked at Makita’s plunge saw, and I think it has the same adjustment possibilities (professional tools do often have that). Chances are that you may receive a tool
that has been tampered or fiddled with. I think the Makita is equally as good as Festools saw. But unless you see the tool all the way from factory or they’re not sealed - you’ll have to check calibration.
Well the calibration has been checked and the best Festool can come up with is to remove the grub screw to go over  the 45 mark. I am just stunned that they are not concerned that the cut they did with their tool set to 45 is not square. What else can I possibly do but get on here and whinge? I am truly mystified! is it possible that it can be our excessively hard timbers here in Western Australia or the blade? I do appreciate your response. It has been the only one of any logic so far.

Did the rep attempt the cut on the same hard wood you refer to?  I can tell you from personal experience that extremely hard woods, a duller blade and too much pressure behind the cut can change the bevel.

I can’t recall for certain, but in my experience I believe the bevel decreased from 0 to -1 to -3 degrees. If my recollection is correct, that would be the same as what you are experiencing. I suggest getting a softer wood, a really sharp blade and slow, even hand pressure. If you get the same results, it has to be the saw.

Good luck.
Yes the rep had the same trouble with the same hard wood but no explanation. Your explanation I do believe is right. Thanks again.

I forgot to mention that since the problem you are having is with a bevel and my supposition is correct, the problem would be worse because of the amount of blade surface contact in a steep bevel vs a 0 degree cut.

 

[semenza]

To all -- Lets keep the personal stuff out of this.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Disappointed -  sorry you are having trouble with the bevel on the saw.

It is a bit hard to follow the discussion with all the messed up quote boxes though.

Seth

 

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

Dissapointed.    As can be seen in the picture I posted earlier, ...the saw is quite capable of producing an accurate 45 degree cut. Having the saw canted over at a 45 degree angle does make the saw want to fall off the track. This is even more pronounced than the TS 55, due to the additional weight and height of the TS75. I wasnt being facetious regarding your technique, just suggesting that it could be part of your problem based on my own early experiences.

The material in my picture is 25mm thick Corian and is very dense to cut. I use a specific Corian type blade made by Festool for cutting this type of material.

I have a number of different blades for my TS 75 for different materials that I work with......Perhaps, the blade you had fitted in the saw was contributing to the issue you are having..?

Which blade were you advised to use in your saw for cutting the type of timber that you're using?

If my memory serves me correctly, the Angle adjustment stops are a Torx headed screw, not an Allen hex head.

Persevere with the saw, I'm sure you will get it sorted out. The TS75 was my very first Festool purchase and it has always performed faultlessly.

Good Luck.

Tim.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

With respect, it could well be your technique, I have seen cuts being made on the bevel, that were slightly out. So if the two halves are then offered up, it becomes way out.
This is with perfectly set up saws. Sometimes the user unwittingly, puts too much side pressure on the saw when making the cut.
This is a very common issue doing bevel cuts with a plunge saw.

I would suggest persevering with your saw, even adjusting if need be, and do some test cutting on scrap.
Good luck with it.

 

[mrboult]

Have you tested in equally thick softer wood to see if it is the wood making things go off?

As mentioned, technique is key. A clamped rail helps, a hand on the base plate pressing down and forward is totally essential imo.

As for the “adjustment over 45” I wouldn’t consider those little white marks that accurate any way you look at it. Once adjusted how far over the mark is it or would it be? I’d suspect it will still be kinda on the mark. . .