cutting 45 degrees with the TS75 is not 45

[Birdhunter]

I find that most wood, as it is cut, moves as internal pressures are released. That movement can affect a cut even on a stout powerful table saw. Also, wood with a pronounced grain can deflect a saw blade. I've even seen cuts that look perfect move after a few hours as the wood "relaxes". This is usually only true with highly figured wood.

Again, if i were trying to use a track saw (or even a table saw) to make the 45 degree cut, I'd do it in two passes if the cut had to be perfect. The second cut is just a shave.

I usually make several test cuts for beveled cuts each measured with a Starrett protractor tool. I also premeasure the angle of the saw blade. I normally ignore the saw's markings if the cut is critical. This may sound tedious, but it is faster than going back to the wood store to buy replacements for badly cut wood.

 

[moclov555]

You can’t buy accuracy. You can only buy precision, and that means a tool that can be precisely ADJUSTED to suit real world conditions.

Everything we do in this trade is about adjusting to reality. Scribing a board against the peaks and valleys of a sheetrocked wall to make everything appear “straight”, when our tools easily tell us nothing actually is straight.  Finding level, setting a datum, the Cartesian grid; these are all tools we’ve created to find “truth” in nature. This craft is man’s attempt at making order out of the chaos of the natural world.

You’re complaining that Festool has provided you with the ability to adjust your tool to the closest thing to “true” available to you, via the adjustments clearly laid out in the manual. Ensuring your tools are properly adjusted, well maintained,  sharp, and safe are all your responsibilities. The chops of any carpenter are judged not by how much they spent on their tools, but what level of accuracy THEY can achieve with them, through skill, consideration, and care.

Cheaper track saws might not even provide the ability to reset your bevels, meaning you’re stuck with any imperfections in the manufacturing. I’ll happily take an out of square machine with the ability to adjust to square over a machine with fixed planes any day of the week. 5 minutes of careful adjustment with a good machine square is worth more than any amount of green tools.

It’s unrealistic to expect a tool to be 90 out of the box. If you’ve had good luck up until now, that’s great, but sooner or later that won’t be the case. When you do this for a living and there’s money on the line, you take the time to check your angles. ESPECIALLY with a brand new saw that  likely got knocked around in shipping.

It sounds like you bought a tool thinking it would make YOU more skilled. Festool doesn’t advertise to do that.

This is likely over OP’s head but the real ones will know. Sounds like he  messed up an expensive slab [emoji1787]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Birdhunter]

It I was attempting this cut, I’d adjust the saw with a precision reference tool, make a couple of test cuts with the same wood as the project, measure the test cuts using a precision reference tool, and readjust the saw as necessary. I’d make my first “real” cut a tad proud. Check the angle. If correct. Make a second cut to dimension.

This process sounds fussy and time consuming, but it works well.

 

[kent B]

bite the bullet and buy Mafell tools - IMHO  . Mafell are the best hands down and great customer service .

 

[Birdhunter]

I have the Mafell DDF4p Doweler and appreciate its quality, but even with the Mafell circular saw, I’d do the test cuts, the proud cut, then the finish cut.