Has any one cut 8020 using the TS55 with the guide rail for highly accurate cuts? If the guide rail is slightly of of the aluminum will this minimize the potential of the chips damageing the splinte guard? I intend to make a fixture to secure the 1030 and 1020 profile in while being cut and and to secure the track to the fixture squarely. I am looking to cut 8020 profiles to make a MFT type of bench.
Cutting 8020 with TS55 and Track
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jonny round boy
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Others may disagree with me on this, but I would say the TS55 is completely the wrong tool for this job.
Having said that, if you don't have (or have access to) a mitre saw, then making a jig to hold the extrusion & rail firmly will work, albeit a bit time consuming. I wouldn't bother leaving a gap between the aluminium & the rail though, it will create more problems than it solves.
Having said that, if you don't have (or have access to) a mitre saw, then making a jig to hold the extrusion & rail firmly will work, albeit a bit time consuming. I wouldn't bother leaving a gap between the aluminium & the rail though, it will create more problems than it solves.
As a commercial glazing contractor I've cut aluminum with practically every power tool available. If you are wanting the cut to be square, the miter saw is definitely the way to go. Use an aluminum negative rake blade and lub the blade with WD-40 or a similar spray lub.
I cut aluminum profiles occasionally with my CS70 and Kapex, but I stopped using the cutting lubricant sprays, because they leave residu inside the saws. (So when you cut wood or mdf after that it will gunk up badly; in my case it caused the riving knife of the cs70 to get stuck, and it fogged up the clear guard and the laser lense of the kapex). Maybe the wax sticks are better in that regard, but I have no bad experience with cutting dry (I do use the non ferro blade, and dial the speed down to 3)
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