Cutting an FS 2424/2-LR 32 Guide Rail; What Sizes?

[mac sparrow]

I have an FS 2424/2-LR 32 guide rail I bought some years ago, I do find it to unwieldy and have barely used it.  I got the rail at a good price and it's going to be to much hassle to sell and ship it in it's current length.  I've already sold the NON LR 32 guide rails I had, the 800 and 1400 and have purchased 2 x 1400 LR 32 guide rails and I'd like to standardise to the holey rails.  I'm happy to join rails for ripping and also don't have the space for longer rails and I'd like to remain fully mobile.  My thinking is I'd like to keep the 2424 and cut it down to more useable sizes, but what sizes?

My options are:

• 1 x 1080
• 1 x 800
• 1 x 544

or

• 1 x 800
• 1 x 1624

or

• 1 x 1900
• 1 x 524

I've done plenty of reading on guide rail lengths and I can see a few people liking the 1900mm length and some commenting on the 1600mm lengths used by Bosch/Mafell as being a good size.  I have an MFT/3 basic so a 1080 may be useful for that, and I also use the TSO guide rail squares and rail connectors if this helps the decision.  All of the above lengths have their merits.  There are some good threads out there with people commenting on having more rail before and after the cut allows you to enter the cut in an already plunged position.  I'd like some input from others, a different point of view is always useful.

Thank you

 

[tsmi243]

I have a piece of track about 14" long.  Not useful every day, but it's definitely come in handy a few times.

 

[Frank-Jan]

When I didn't get the accuracy out of my mft3 when I hadn't used it for cutting for a long time, I decided to replace the rail, by cutting a 1400mm I had as a spare in its box into a new 1080 rail, the offcut, about 320 mm (12,5 inches) has been usefull, and the nice part is, that it fits in the ts55 systainer.

In your case, since you no longer have a 800, which I use a lot too, I think I would go for the second option. The 1624 part would be usefull for full sheet crosscuts, which can be done with the 1400, but often don't leave enough overhang to start the cut with the hose-guide-spoiler-thingy installed.

 

[mac sparrow]

Thanks [member=51752]tsmi243[/member] and [member=1993]Frank-Jan[/member], these are the types of replies I'm after.

Thank you

 

[mino]

From the options and without further info on what other rails you have, I would vote for 800/1624 too.

But keep in mind it will need to be actually 792 / 1624 in that case.

The holy rails have a length of X*32mm + 24mm (or X.75 *32mm, if you wish).

This means:
- you can cut any holy rail cleanly at every point between the rails AND have it behave exactly as factory-made rail when it comes to connecting as for holy use there is 8mm assumed gap
- your lengths need to be allways X*32mm + 24mm, so closest is 792 (24.75*32) and 1624 (50.75*32) or 824 and 1592 (possibly more suitable as will fit 1600-size bag)

I have two holies and have them as 1016 + 376 and a full 1400.
- 376 is used for two-three holes LR24 scenarios and in-place cuts for small stuff once in a while
- 1016 is used the most of all my rails, holy or non-holy - it is the ideal length for up to 600mm-ish cabinet parts as well as for 900-height kitchen cabinets in LR32 role
- 1400 where 1016 is too short
- 1400 + 376 for full-sheet cross-cuts
- 1400 + 1016 + 376 for full sheet rips (but I use my 2500 + 376 mostly here)

But if I had 2424 I would definitely not cross-cut it into 3 pieces naturally.
If I would already have other 1400 rail, then something 1600-ish and something 800-ish would make sense.

There is are scenarios however, where the 1016 + 1400 is IMO better. If you have a rail bag which is 1400 max or if you already have some shorter rails like an 800 or so. In any case I would recommend getting some 376/400-ish pieces, though not from holy. They fit in Systainer and are very useful when you need to extend a rail "just that bit more".

 

[mac sparrow]

[member=61254]mino[/member] thank you, that's given me some food for thought.

I already have 2 x 1400 LR 32 rails and an MFT/3 basic and TSO guide rail square, does this alter your thoughts on my situation?

As I already have 2 x 1400 LR 32's, if I were to cut the 2424 LR 32 into 800 ish and 1600 ish, I feel this leaves a big gap between the 800 and 1400.  I use the 2 x 1400's for rip cuts and I would use the 1600 ish for crosscuts.  I have just ordered the DashboardPWS guide rail bracket for my MFT/3 basic so I will need a guide rail for that.  Perhaps I just buy a 1080 non holey rail just for that?  Or buy another 1400 LR 32 and cut of 1080 for the MFT leaving me with 320 ish which you've all said is a good size?  This would keep all my rails as holey rails, the cost between holey or non holey isn't very much.  The proposed setup would leave me with:

• 1 x 320 ish cut holey
• 1 x 800 ish cut holey
• 1 x 1080 cut holey for MFT/3 basic
• 2 x 1400 uncut holeys for ripping
• 1 x 1600 ish cut holey for crosscut

All of the above keeps me 100% mobile which I want.

My next question is does it matter where I cut the rail?  i.e. cut the 800 ish bit off at the top or bottom of the rail?  My thinking here is keep the "cut" side of the rail off the work piece leaving the "uncut" side to be joined to another rail reducing any potential errors that may come up from me cutting the rail.  I could just be splitting hairs here!

Hey thanks again, I'm not very good at maths so dug out my LR32's to check what you said about the 8mm assumed gap and you're spot on.  Obviously you "get" these things quicker than me.

 

[mino]

[member=61254]mino[/member] thank you, that's given me some food for thought.

I already have 2 x 1400 LR 32 rails and an MFT/3 basic and TSO guide rail square, does this alter your thoughts on my situation?

As I already have 2 x 1400 LR 32's, if I were to cut the 2424 LR 32 into 800 ish and 1600 ish, I feel this leaves a big gap between the 800 and 1400.  I use the 2 x 1400's for rip cuts and I would use the 1600 ish for crosscuts.  I have just ordered the DashboardPWS guide rail bracket for my MFT/3 basic so I will need a guide rail for that.  Perhaps I just buy a 1080 non holey rail just for that?  Or buy another 1400 LR 32 and cut of 1080 for the MFT leaving me with 320 ish which you've all said is a good size?  This would keep all my rails as holey rails, the cost between holey or non holey isn't very much.  The proposed setup would leave me with:

• 1 x 320 ish cut holey
• 1 x 800 ish cut holey
• 1 x 1080 cut holey for MFT/3 basic
• 2 x 1400 uncut holeys for ripping
• 1 x 1600 ish cut holey for crosscut

All of the above keeps me 100% mobile which I want.

My next question is does it matter where I cut the rail?  i.e. cut the 800 ish bit off at the top or bottom of the rail?  My thinking here is keep the "cut" side of the rail off the work piece leaving the "uncut" side to be joined to another rail reducing any potential errors that may come up from me cutting the rail.  I could just be splitting hairs here!

Hey thanks again, I'm not very good at maths so dug out my LR32's to check what you said about the 8mm assumed gap and you're spot on.  Obviously you "get" these things quicker than me.

No "getting" .. I just measured it when I decided I needed some cutting of rails to get where I wanted to be.

If you already have two 1400, then it changes the calculus a bit. Well, a lot.

One thing I would recommend is to have a 1016 (ish) rail like I have not for MFT but for general use, it is the most-used length in my shop.

Avoid 320, I use 376 because it is the longest LR32-compliant rail that will still fit a systainer but ideally would want 450 or so. I have 3 of them, so I can take just my "babyrails + GRS + clamps" SYS-MFT and my SYS 4 with TSC and am good to go with up to 1100+ of rail included for helping a friend etc.

I also use the short 376 for cutting pipes and other short stuff, and there really yuou want 400-450 so 376 is already a compromise. Also, keep in mind you need space for the connector + clamp + overhang. So really 320 will miss those 50 critical millimeters there.

With that in mind, my 2 cents:

1 x 376 cut holey - extend rails where a bit is needed, mitter-saw-style mini-cuts, straight edge for rail connecting
1 x 952 cut holey - general "handy" rail, long enough for most smaller cabinets LR32
1 x 1080 cut holey for MFT/3 basic
2 x 1400 uncut holeys for ripping (exist)
2 x set of Makita connectors (if not have)

That will give you 376, 952, 1400, 1776 (1400+376), 2352 (1400+952), 2800 (2x 1400) and 3752 (2x1400+952) for those 3000 mm sheet rips + MFT with LR32 integrated.

Mainly, you do not end up as a "rail collector" but a "rail user" hopefully.
[smile]

If I were to add to that, it would only be a non-holy 1400 cut as 2x376 + rest 640ish for another handy rail like I have as the three baby rails in a systainer are great for helping a friend cut a shelf here and there without bringing the 1400 Festool bag with me ...

My 632 was mostly a leftover. But I found it handy for cutting narrow stock which is too unwieldy for a mitter saw. It is also great - combined with a GRSes on both sides - to cut metal construction pieces at right angles. The two GRSes force the rail to be precisely square to the material and the 600-ish length is just about optimal for the rail to not be unwieldy. But that is really more OCD than anything. Unless you are a Pro user, I would say you will already have more rails than you need once you cutup your 2424.

 

[mac sparrow]

[member=61254]mino[/member] great input and makes a lot of sense.  Given I already have the 2424, the 376/952/1080 combination from this rail makes the most sense and is what I'll do.

As an aside, I have a pair of the TSO guide rail connectors and I think they're excellent but damn expensive.  I'll have to give the Makita connectors a try, I'm aware of the Festool connectors causing dimples on the rails.

Thanks again