I've jointed butchers' block worktop many times, including Ikea. As others have said the 45 degree cut isn't really the best as shrinkage can be a problem. If you use a masons' mitre jig then you can end up with the worktop opening up slightly on the radius of the joint. This is because you have a cross grain situation - one worktop is along the grain (the female joint) and one is across the grain (the male joint). The latter will expand and contract and sometimes away from the radius of the joint.
I do a straight joint. On the Ikea work top you knock off one of the 2mm bevels and just put it back on later. I would never glue this joint (because of the cross grain situation). Just biscuits, bolts, and some good quality clear silicone.
I've tried cutting these joints with the TS55. In my experience even with a new blade there is noticeable blade deflection. I make an initial cut with the TS55 and then just take a whisker off with a router.
Remember to seal all the worktop edges before assembly and allow an expansion gap against the wall. Also fix down with metal stretcher (expansion) plates in the correct orientation. Ikea supply the plates with the worktop.
Troll
I do a straight joint. On the Ikea work top you knock off one of the 2mm bevels and just put it back on later. I would never glue this joint (because of the cross grain situation). Just biscuits, bolts, and some good quality clear silicone.
I've tried cutting these joints with the TS55. In my experience even with a new blade there is noticeable blade deflection. I make an initial cut with the TS55 and then just take a whisker off with a router.
Remember to seal all the worktop edges before assembly and allow an expansion gap against the wall. Also fix down with metal stretcher (expansion) plates in the correct orientation. Ikea supply the plates with the worktop.
Troll