Cutting cultured marble

[Jimhart]

Hi,

Neighbor needs about an inch trimmed off of a 4 foot long sheet of cultured marble. I'd like to use a rail to guide the cut. Not sure whether to use TS55, jigsaw or router. Also not sure what blade/bit. I've read a masonry blade will work, but then others seem to think a carbide saw blade or router bit will work as well.

Thanks,

Jim

 

[mastercabman]

I have cut a lot of CMT.  Masonry blade on a circular saw.I don't think it would be wise to use the ts 55 for this task.LOTS OF DUST!!!!
WEAR A MASK!!!!

 

[Eli]

I think it can be done with the TS55. There's a company in Melbourne that does this and uses the saws to point of failure. (but they cut a lot more than you will). I think Festool changed up the eccentric gizmo in the hat track groove so when abrasive stuff wears it out it can be replaced. What better to cut something dusty with than a extractor and TS55?

 

[tjbnwi]

I cut this product at least 4 times a year with my TS55;

http://www.theswancorp.com/index.php?prod=289

It is about 1/4" thick. I make all of my sizing and plunge cutouts with the standard blade that comes with the saw. They do make a solid surface blade (maybe I should get one someday), so I am assuming it is an approved material to cut.

No dust, does not seem to hurt the blade. I've tried other ways and will never go back to them.

I had to cut 20 sheets of 12' 1/2" drywall into 12" wide strips, used the 55 for that also, very little dust and was cleaner than a knife would be. Stacked them evenly, cut through 5 or 6 sheets at a time, it left a layout cut for the next 5 or 6 sheets. Would not do a whole house or room this way, but it sure worked for what I needed to do.

If I had not gotten away from using CBU's that would be next on my "let's see how this works out" list.

The dust from these products may be more abrasive and harmful to the lungs (all the more reason for the dust collection), but I do not think cutting them once in a while will hurt the saw. Make sure you do a good clean up of the equipment when you're done.

Tom

 

[mastercabman]

I cut this product at least 4 times a year with my TS55;

http://www.theswancorp.com/index.php?prod=289

It is about 1/4" thick. I make all of my sizing and plunge cutouts with the standard blade that comes with the saw. They do make a solid surface blade (maybe I should get one someday), so I am assuming it is an approved material to cut.

No dust, does not seem to hurt the blade. I've tried other ways and will never go back to them.

I had to cut 20 sheets of 12' 1/2" drywall into 12" wide strips, used the 55 for that also, very little dust and was cleaner than a knife would be. Stacked them evenly, cut through 5 or 6 sheets at a time, it left a layout cut for the next 5 or 6 sheets. Would not do a whole house or room this way, but it sure worked for what I needed to do.

If I had not gotten away from using CBU's that would be next on my "let's see how this works out" list.

The dust from these products may be more abrasive and harmful to the lungs (all the more reason for the dust collection), but I do not think cutting them once in a while will hurt the saw. Make sure you do a good clean up of the equipment when you're done.

Tom

That product is not really the same as culture marble top.I have cut similar product with a regular blade and had no problem.But when cutting CMT,It will dull your blade fast!
I used jigsaw and it will eat that blade.
Sure i would use my ts55 to keep the dust to a minimum ,But i'm not going to waste a blade for that.

 

[peter halle]

JIm,

How clean, straight and neat does your cut end have to be?

 

[Holzhacker]

I have an old wormdrive that only gets used to cut either roofing, CMT or other nasty type products. The dust and gunk are extreme. Different masonry blades work better or worse depending on brand/quality. As long as you don't try to feed too fast you should be ok. I wouldn't use my TS or guiderail just because I wouldn't want to deal with the cleanup. The wormdrive doesn't care about cleanup.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Cultered marble is norhing but a bunch of resins.

 

[tjbnwi]

That product is not really the same as culture marble top.I have cut similar product with a regular blade and had no problem.But when cutting CMT,It will dull your blade fast!
I used jigsaw and it will eat that blade.
Sure i would use my ts55 to keep the dust to a minimum ,But i'm not going to waste a blade for that.
[/quote]

I also install this product and it is cultured marble;

http://culturedmarbleusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=12&Itemid=26

Never an issue cutting it either as Darcy stated all this is is resin with color and sometimes aggregate.

Slow the speed to 4 and cut away, I have yet to waste a blade.

The cultured marble bases are much heavier than the Swanstone, that is the primary reason I prefer Swanstone.

I also flip cultured marble tops over and cut those from the bottom when it is necessary and I can fit the rail in place. 

This is the blade made for solid surfaces, I use the one that came with the saw;

http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plunge-cut-circular-saws/blades/solid-surface-laminate-48tooth-saw-blade-495375.html

Tom

 

[Jimhart]

JIm,

How clean, straight and neat does your cut end have to be?

Peter,

it's the visible bottom edge of the panel supporting a bathtub.

Jim

 

[musicmanivi]

I am a professional cultured marble installer.  I'm sure there are more ways than one to cut cultured marble, but the way I do it day in and day out is with a circular saw and 7" abrasive masonry blade, cutting from left to right.  The gelcoat is thin (10-20mm), so I keep the saw elevated so the guard doesn't make contact with the surface at any time to prevent scratching.