Cutting down 1-3/4" natural cherry doors: which TS55 blade and setup for a clean cut?

[Michael Kellough]

One more thing to add, tear out at the end of the cut is a concern. If you have a clamp long enough you can clamp a piece of wood where the blade will exit. If you don’t have the clamp you can tape a block of wood there. Use 2” wide packing tape and stretch it tight, keeping the block flush with the surface the guide rail will sit on.

 

[Michael Kellough]

FWIW...For critical cuts I always use blue painters tape. I adhere it well to the surface by using a J-roller. If both sides of the substrate need to be chip free, then I'll put tape on both sides.

Another good precaution, especially with the lower tooth count blade. If the existing finish on the door is strong it will make the blue tape redundant but you won’t know until you cut so adding the tape is a good idea.

 

[rossn100]

Basically you are cutting through the tape so cover the cut line. It’s trying to do a slightly better job than the built in splinter guard on the rail.

Ron

FWIW...For critical cuts I always use blue painters tape. I adhere it well to the surface by using a J-roller. If both sides of the substrate need to be chip free, then I'll put tape on both sides.

Another good precaution, especially with the lower tooth count blade. If the existing finish on the door is strong it will make the blue tape redundant but you won’t know until you cut so adding the tape is a good idea.

Ok, got it on the tape. Thanks for the education here, all!

One more thing to add, tear out at the end of the cut is a concern. If you have a clamp long enough you can clamp a piece of wood where the blade will exit. If you don’t have the clamp you can tape a block of wood there. Use 2” wide packing tape and stretch it tight, keeping the block flush with the surface the guide rail will sit on.

This is good information. For one, I'll probably plan to end on the hinge side of the door. Does the block thickness need to match the thickness of the door, pretty much exactly?

By long-enough clamp, I assume you mean long enough to go across the face of the door + block, from the underside, just above the cut? I have both quick release clamps and pipe clamps in that length, and would probably use the former on that surface.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Ok, got it on the tape. Thanks for the education here, all!


This is good information. For one, I'll probably plan to end on the hinge side of the door. Does the block thickness need to match the thickness of the door, pretty much exactly?

By long-enough clamp, I assume you mean long enough to go across the face of the door + block, from the underside, just above the cut? I have both quick release clamps and pipe clamps in that length, and would probably use the former on that surface.

You’ve got it. Quick clamp is what I’d use too. That’s a good idea to cut towards the hinge side. The block should be at least as tall as the door is thick. Ideally the same size just for secure taping. Flush with the top surface of the door when the door is laying flat.

Second the J roller. Pressure sensitive adhesive is exactly what it says. If you want it to really stick, pressure the hell out of it.

 

[flair woodworks]

How much are you trimming off the door? If more than 3/8 inch, you can make a test cut in the door first to make sure your settings are dialled in before committing. For that thick of a door, you may find you get a smoother edge by making two or three passes. Also, check for metal inside if you can before proceeding.