Cutting Drywall with Vecturo

Fein multimaster, hand drywall saw or Trion. I use all depending on situation and what I remembered to put in the truck. If you are good at using your tools you should be fine holding the saw (whichever one) in one hand and holding the vac hose in the other hand near the blade.
I'm fine with using an upcoming job to rationalize buying a new tool. This one is a bit of a stretch though.
 
I seem to be always cutting out Sheetrock to access something or un-screwup something one of my subs did.

Find studs- use level to make nice straight lines-vecturo with either a beat up wood blade. I think multiblades make a drywall specific blade also. Very cheap. While cutting hold a Vac hose in the other hand to collect as much dust as you can.
 
Track saw works even better on the thick fireproof stuff. Clamp help.
 
I forgot my drywall square 1050 miles away from the project I'm on. Need to install 6 sheets of 1/2 and 1 sheet of 5/8 drywall. TS-55 to the rescue.

Also cut the Kerdi board with the TS-55.

No fuss, no muss, no mess.

Tom
 

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With all due respect to those who posted that they use their FTs for this type of work I will say that if using AC power to do do this, there are many other tools out there at a fraction of the cost that can and will do the same job.  I don't treat my FTs like delicate flowers, but nor do I want to subject them to conditions that may shorten their service life. Gypsum is a mineral and by nature minerals are abrasive and abrasives combined with moving parts do not necessarily get along over time.

Again with all due respect, I don't see the merits in trying to salvage large pieces of drywall for reinstallation (if that's the intention), but if it's a small area, then I get it.

I have a multimaster that owes me nothing and I use it a lot for small scale demo. If it's large scale I will use a 4" grinder and vacuum and if ultimate dust collection is required, I will resort to the old fashioned way of multiple passes with a razor knife.
 
I really don't get this obsession by some with cutting straight lines in drywall. Using a vecturo or ts55 to cut drywall for DC I definitely understand. For a straight line, its drywall who cares. My go to is a sawzall that makes a straight enough line. You have to tape the drywall afterwards so straight or squiggly is pretty irrelevant.
I want that drywall out as fast as possible so I can do the repair behind it, slap it back in with some DB20 and keep moving.
 
I dont do it for a living, but it has two advantages to me. The first is the dust, the second is the speed. SO FAST. Two screws and cut. I find a track saw a lot faster then most tools for cutting lines. It's also pretty easy to set the depth and I'm not worried about what's behind so much.
 
If your going to be cutting on the studs (you kinda have to in order to put up another sheet...) then your going to have screws all along your cut line.

Mark your line, knife it, your blade will bounce over the screws if youve got you line right. Remove those screws and clean up your line. Cut a new piece of drywall to fit and re-screw both sides of your cut line to the stud.

You can't tell me that running a magnet over your cut line, removing the screws and then attaching a rail to the wall is any quicker. I'd have it knifed and cleaned up before you had the saw out.
 
I've done this with a MultiMaster, but not a Vecturo.

I'd recommend fixing a batten to the wall along the cut line and using this to guide the blade, pressing side of the blade down gently on the batten.  You can get a really straight cut this way.  Use the depth stop to make sure you only cut the board, and not any concealed wires or pipes.

I'd agree with checking the cut line first for nails using a magnet, and I'd also be concerned that a piece than size may be well fixed by nails in the centre of the field, but there's not a lot you can do about that.

Good luck!

Andrew

 
I've gotten tried of hit and or searching for screws. I find it easier to cut along the side of the stud and place a 2x2 furring backing along the side of the existing stud for the replacement drywall. Problem solved. Most the time I use my vecturo.
Rick.
 
mattmass said:
Thanks all!

A track saw is exactly what I'd reach for if the drywall wasn't already on the wall :)

I'll give the tried-and-true utility knife a shot. So much for new toys huh [crying]

A utility knife and a straight edge is all you will need. No dust and very clean cut. The piece will fit right back in place without any problems.
 
Dewalt offer a very neat folding jab saw that incorporates a drywall rasp, use that in conjunction with a straight edge and a utility knife and job done.
 
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