Cutting through walnut. Caught a nail

[robgott1]

I was testing my saws capabilities on some really thick walnut full depth and I crosscut a screw. I thought something blew on the saw but I was able to realign and finish the cut

Any concerns? Anything to check? Thanks

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jim_in_PA]

Hitting ferrous metal is certain to at least affect cut quality minimally but maybe more. Be sure you carefully inspect every single tooth on the blade to be sure they are all still there. And order a replacement blade, if you don't have one, for when you need to make important cuts if what you have is still usable for the rougher cuts. You should also be using a more aggressive blade for the thick cuts anyway, not the general purpose blade that comes with the track saw that's primarily optimized for sheet goods.

 

[robgott1]

Fortunately I was using the rip blade o bought

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[robgott1]

It seems like the motor and internals are fine tho it’s running smoothly

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[robgott1]

I don’t see any damage it looks like the ts60 handled it real well and the rest of the cut was just as nice

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Cheese]

Hitting ferrous metal is certain to at least affect cut quality minimally but maybe more. Be sure you carefully inspect every single tooth on the blade to be sure they are all still there. And order a replacement blade, if you don't have one, for when you need to make important cuts if what you have is still usable for the rougher cuts. You should also be using a more aggressive blade for the thick cuts anyway, not the general purpose blade that comes with the track saw that's primarily optimized for sheet goods.

I echo Jim's thoughts...make a mark with a Sharpie at the tooth you start with and carefully examine every tooth for ANY damage. Take your time because damaged teeth can sometimes be difficult to see. Mark the damaged tooth with a Sharpie and continue to proceed until you arrive at the first tooth that was inspected.

Now go back and closely examine any teeth you marked with the Sharpie. Look carefully and sometimes you may need to change the angle of the blade relative to the light source to determine how serious the damage is. I've had everything from missing carbide inserts to the smallest chips that you're barely able to see, the later can be easily reground. If you decide to have the blade resharpened, include a note referencing the teeth you found damaged.

You're probably good because the saw is new and all of the internal components are also fresh. Just keep an eye out for chatter marks or burn marks which may be an alert to a potential problem.

 

[luvmytoolz]

I've lost count of nails I've cut through over the years with the only result at worst a few teeth chipped. Pretty much any carbide tipped blade will just power through nails without much damage as a result.

 

[Cheese]

I don’t see any damage it looks like the ts60 handled it real well and the rest of the cut was just as nice

Whoa...before you come to that conclusion I'd first clean that blade. As I noted before, very small issues with the carbide are sometimes difficult to see but they still exist and do cause problems. That blade's nasty looking, and needs a good cleaning before I'd give the blade a clean bill of health. Even the saw blade plate is starting to turn brown...that's unusual.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I fully concur with [member=44099]Cheese[/member] statements.  That blade is horrible looking. Is this wood wet?
The teeth can get micro-cracked (shattered) and come apart later. After a good cleaning, I would gently run it into some scrap and inspect it again.

I've lost count of nails I've cut through over the years with the only result at worst a few teeth chipped. Pretty much any carbide tipped blade will just power through nails without much damage as a result.

Nails (even hand bangers) are quite a bit different than screws. Over the years, I have cut through various brad nails and narrow-crown staples, with different blades (even router bits) and most of the time, you don't even notice it. However screws are more intense. They can break things. It is worth careful inspection.

My TS60 didn't come with a universal blade (28?) I bought that later. It had fine finish 48?

 

[Vtshopdog]

[/quote]
Nails (even hand bangers) are quite a bit different than screws. Over the years, I have cut through various brad nails and narrow-crown staples, with different blades (even router bits) and most of the time, you don't even notice it. However screws are more intense. They can break things. It is worth careful inspection.

[/quote]

LOL:
Found this lag bolt a few years back.
(It was with my sawzall, but still....)

[attachimg=1]

 

[tjbnwi]

If in doubt have the blade serviced.

Tom

 

[Cheese]

Nails (even hand bangers) are quite a bit different than screws. Over the years, I have cut through various brad nails and narrow-crown staples, with different blades (even router bits) and most of the time, you don't even notice it. However screws are more intense. They can break things. It is worth careful inspection.

[/quote]

LOL:
Found this lag bolt a few years back.
(It was with my sawzall, but still....)

[attachimg=1]
[/quote]

That's because nails are manufactured from a different steel than screws. They are also usually hardened while nails are left in the "soft state". Nails are more ductile so they can kind of go with the flow while screws take their task of securing objects seriously. If stressed to the max, nails bend while screws break. So...ultimate strength goes to screws while ductility and movement goes to nails. Kindness to saw blades also goes to nails because you really don't want to cut a screw with a saw blade without checking the blade after.

I've framed up structures with both and they both have their plusses and minuses.