Cutting with my TS 55 Track Saw is alway 2 MM Out

[Corwin]

peter - then how does one join multiple guide rails together and what then happen to the fat ends when you do and cut through them anyway ?

I also have no idea what the trainers in the U.S. are doing here now , but I'm pretty certain I've been using FT guide rails longer than any of them have and leaving the ends fat was not the way that was being shown when the AT saws landed here with the single ribbed FS guides.

So I stand by comments.

Having a short uncut area of splinter strip on either end of your rails is the normal situation. Only when you join rails do you cut these ends properly. And, all of my rails are setup correctly.

My prior post on this thread is the result of years of experience with the track saw, and now a decade of following these forums. As it happens, we have had other members here that have had this exact issue that was caused by indexing off the uncut area of splinter strip.

 

[tjbnwi]

peter - then how does one join multiple guide rails together and what then happen to the fat ends when you do and cut through them anyway ?

I also have no idea what the trainers in the U.S. are doing here now , but I'm pretty certain I've been using FT guide rails longer than any of them have and leaving the ends fat was not the way that was being shown when the AT saws landed here with the single ribbed FS guides.

So I stand by comments.

When I get a new rail or adjust/change strips, I simply make a plunge cut with both gibs on the rail.

I don't have to join rails to make a cut. If or when the time comes that I do join a few rails the ends get cut, but not necessarily all the ends. Over time I end up with cut and un-cut ends on rails.

Tom

 

[Svar]

First, you need to establish whether:
1) your saw cuts 2 mm away from the splinter guard, or
2) your rail is not secure and moves during cut, or
3) you allign your rail incorrectly, indexing from uncut portion of the splinter guard.
Looking at your outcome using parallel guides, its #1.

 

[peter halle]

[member=727]antss[/member],

If you connect rails then you will probably have a cut end or ends depending on how you join and rejoin.  But if you don't connect rails, then you may not.

More than one way to use a rail or multiples.

Peter

 

[Ironmantrev]

I think Tom is right, we need to wait for Hop to get home to use his equipment and possibly provide some pictures. From what he describes I am perplexed. It sounds as if he is doing things correct but obviously the results say otherwise. I suspect there is something very simple that is not being taken into consideration/forgotten it and will be one of those hand to forehead type moments when he gets it.

I think one of the possibilities above, when you think you have thought of every angle, someone else comes along with one more, of measuring from the right side/lining up marks and rail edge and then cutting 2mm off the total length wanted in the first place could be a possibility.

Now that the parallel guides have been brought into the equation, they are possibly out of sync as well. I personally do not go by the tapes on the PGs without double or triple checking with my tape measure. There are also some tips and tricks that should be taken into consideration when using the PGs. The OP has opened Pandora's box, and we will not be able to do anything until the end of the month

While the OP is away from home and likely has some free time in the evenings while in the hotel, I would highly recommend viewing videos of how to set up, adjust, calibrate and use the various pieces of equipment he has. Saw, mft, rails, parallel guides. I bet something will stand out and his problem will be solved.

 

[antss]

Peter - if you join two rails and make a cut along the entire length then at least two of your fat ends will then get trimmed and no longer be fat.  When uncoupled , you'll have two or more rails with one end gpfat and one end not.

Or you could just buy multiple rails of sufficient length to never have to join rails together in the first place.

Or you could......

Also, it's quite possible and very probable that Festool NA has changed how they present using their tools.  Additionally, these trainings are given or directed by humans - all of whom have a different way of doing things.  So it's not surprising there are many ways of presenting using an setting up the tools by the manuf. Just as there are many different ways the tools ultimately get used by their owners.

Multiple rails works for Tom.  That's a losing proposition for me and each of my guys to carry around six rails to job sites.  It's an unnecessary expense and weight penalty. Two fs1400 will cut anything we will encounter on site. 

Also, I've seen Festool how too videos with some abhorrent practices with regard to technique and saftey.  Saying the mothership's dictum is the be all end all just doesn't cut it with me when the message is not consistent across market places or promotes safe practices.  Listen, I'm not looking to bash Festool or get into a debate about how their videos are shot but mearly point out that the company way may not always be the right one.

I'm as perplexed as ironman , as I thought for sure Hopkins was cutting on the wrong side of his material - I'll be as surprised if his saw has 2mm of slop in it on the guide rail, but will admit it's possible.

 

[tjbnwi]

Multiple rails works for Tom.  That's a losing proposition for me and each of my guys to carry around six rails to job sites.  It's an unnecessary expense and weight penalty. Two fs1400 will cut anything we will encounter on site. 

I carry 2 rails when working in the field unless I know I have to do a very long cut.

The 2 rails I carry are the 1400 and 2700. Both fit easily in my Excursion.

Festool (USA) does recommend the rails be joined for trimming, join, trim one set of ends, reset and trim opposite ends. I just don't bother doing this.

Tom

 

[Laminator]

With the old ATF 55, its easy to trim the whole length of the splinter guard as long as you hold the saws base against the nib at the beginning and end.  This wont work for the TS 55 because of the difference in way the saw base makes contact with the nib on the guide rail.  Anxious to hear the OP's solution.

 

[Corwin]

I do appreciate everyone's response and suggestions I am currently not able to check the saw or guide rails until i get home at the  end of the month. All the cuts that I wanted to keep were under the rail and were lined up exactly with the edge of the splinter guard. Maybe I'm pushing on the saw which is causing the error ? When I was using the Festool Parallel guides when I wanted 768 mm I had to set them at 766 to get an accurate cut of 768 mm. Just to clarify I did change the blade to a Fine Tooth Saw Blade but it has the same kerf 2.2 mm as the regular Standard Saw Blade. what a great forum guy's thanks for everyone's input but I'm still perplexed as to what the problem is

With this additional info, I would suspect that the base of your saw has shifted and your saw now cuts 2mm away from your splinter strip. Could you have dropped your saw, or maybe had a kickback incident prior to the beginning of this 2mm error occurring?

With the blade plunged to the surface of your material, you should be able to verify if the blade is at the edge of the splinter strip or not. Should it be out, then you simply have to recalibrate your saw -- not a difficult process.

 

[antss]

[member=10148]Laminator[/member] - it will work just fine.

Here's a quite old and worn  fs1080 that I fitted with new strip and mated to a brand new TS55req purchased from [member=6555]Shane[/member] three weeks ago. It was cut alone and not with its companion 1400. You will note that I don't have fat ends. I can also assure you that it cuts straight and true with no tearout. I used it myself to cut 4 high gloss lacquer panels on a set of $70k vanity side panels for a nationally known designer before the holiday.  The saw/rail fitting didn't require any special jigs, clamps, or an especially steady hand to trim the strip.

 

[Laminator]

Hmm, mayby my ts55 is alone in its wiggle when the front or rear contacts run past the guide rail nib.  The atf55 and mafell mt55 don't  suffer in this way.

 

[WastedP]

I agree with [member=727]antss[/member] , I have put new strips on several rails and come up with measurably perfect cuts without joining rails or leaving "fat ends."

I will note that with a TS 75 that I had some weirdness with both the riving knife deployment and cut accuracy after a blade change that I traced back to user error.  I didn't want to over-torque the blade bolt, so it wasn't tightened enough and the cuts were way to the right of the line.  Two mils?  I can't say for sure.  I found that the bolt tightens to a definitely perceptible stopping point.  I think it would be hard to accidentally over-tighten it.  But this was definitely the cause of an accuracy problem.

I think it could be possible to get 2mm of slop if the green knobs weren't tightened to the rail, especially if the saw was held from one side to cut the splinter strip and the opposite side to cut material.  If you were new to a TS and didn't know how to adjust the slop, it could happen.

 

[Corwin]

I agree with [member=727]antss[/member] , I have put new strips on several rails and come up with measurably perfect cuts without joining rails or leaving "fat ends."

Yes, but being able to cut the ends of the splinter strip is not the issue here. Not at all. The point was that this could have been the source of the OP's problem, as this has come up here before. But, after further information from the OP, it is clear that his saw is cutting the workpiece beneath the guide rail too long, not too short, so the issue of aligning with the "fat ends" of the splinter strip is no longer revenant. Further discussion regarding the initial cutting of the splinter strip is just not helpful here.

 

[antss]

That's just one more reason to not leave "fat ends" on your splinter strip    [wink]

 

[Ross 71]

Just to display my ignorance again:

I lent my 1400 rail to someone on site who used it with their sheppach plunge saw. As this is not my only rail, not my only 1400 rail, I didn't immediately realise there was a problem.  Took a while before I worked out that my saw is now about .6mm out and the cut edge isn't quite the perfect clean edge I've come to know and love.

Now not using my "bad" rail until I can replace the strip.

Moral of the story: Never be so proud of your Festool kit that you lend it to someone who " can't see the need for it"

 

[tjbnwi]

Just to display my ignorance again:

I lent my 1400 rail to someone on site who used it with their sheppach plunge saw. As this is not my only rail, not my only 1400 rail, I didn't immediately realise there was a problem.  Took a while before I worked out that my saw is now about .6mm out and the cut edge isn't quite the perfect clean edge I've come to know and love.

Now not using my "bad" rail until I can replace the strip.

Moral of the story: Never be so proud of your Festool kit that you lend it to someone who " can't see the need for it"

Move the strip, recut it.

If your going to use one of my rails, I match your saw to mine before you use my rail.

Tom

 

[pettyconstruction]

Like Tom said
Lift , attach and re-cut.
Btw I got some Mikita splinter guard material and love it. Thanks for the tip.
Charlie

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

[tjbnwi]

I use acid free ATG when I reset the strips.

Tom

 

[Cheese]

I use acid free ATG when I reset the strips.

Hey Tom...what do you use to clean off the old adhesive?

 

[tjbnwi]

I use acid free ATG when I reset the strips.

Hey Tom...what do you use to clean off the old adhesive?

Acetone and a single edge razor blade.

Tom