HowardH
Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2007
- Messages
- 1,573
I had built this deck originally many years ago, pre-Festool. It hadn't held up that well to the hellacious Texas summers so I decided it was time to do a replacement of the deck boards. I originally was going to use a composite material but since we are moving in a few months, I didn't see the need to spend 2.5 times the cost of treated pine since we are going to be here for a few months. I looked at a lot of different methods of attaching the deck boards and decided on the Camo system. More on that in a minute.
[attachthumb=#1]
[attachthumb=#2]
[attachthumb=#3]
[attachthumb=#4]
It was a pretty big project - about 500 sq ft. I did it in sections. One weekend was on the octogon shaped section, the next weekend on the pathway to the garage door and then saving the big section for two more weekends. My son helped quite a bit... until he got bored. I redid a lot of the framework to correct some mistakes made the first time around. Having the Festool made a big difference. I kicked around getting a Kapex to cut the boards but ultimately decided on using the MFT with Qwas dogs. I don't know when I would use the Kapex next so I saved the money towards getting a Domino in the near future. Not the most ideal solution but it worked great.
[attachthumb=#5]
After I put down all the boards, I put together my two longest rails and went around the edge evening all the ends with the TS 55. That made it look a lot more professional.
Now on the fasteners.
[attachthumb=#6]
[attachthumb=#7]
This Camo system is pretty cool. As you can see, the device fits over the board and then you drop a proprietary screw into each of the ends at a 45 deg angle and it toenails the board into the joist. No exposed screws that way. If you make a mistake, you simply back it out. It was a bit more time consuming since the LOML made me do the main part of the deck at 45 deg so you had to move the holder down a bit to make sure I caught the joist. You squeeze the handle to get it to fit over the edges and when you let go, a spring holds it in place. I would really recommend this system as it requires no pre-drilling or using clips.
I still have to stain/preserve it and that will take place over the next weekend if the weather holds up. I was letting the wood dry out a bit. Sherwin-Williams has a nice product called DeckScape which is a water based uv protection/stain. I'll use my HVLP to apply the product and then roll it. The sprayer will allow me to get down into the space between the boards. All it all, I think it turned out pretty well.
[attachthumb=#1]
[attachthumb=#2]
[attachthumb=#3]
[attachthumb=#4]
It was a pretty big project - about 500 sq ft. I did it in sections. One weekend was on the octogon shaped section, the next weekend on the pathway to the garage door and then saving the big section for two more weekends. My son helped quite a bit... until he got bored. I redid a lot of the framework to correct some mistakes made the first time around. Having the Festool made a big difference. I kicked around getting a Kapex to cut the boards but ultimately decided on using the MFT with Qwas dogs. I don't know when I would use the Kapex next so I saved the money towards getting a Domino in the near future. Not the most ideal solution but it worked great.
[attachthumb=#5]
After I put down all the boards, I put together my two longest rails and went around the edge evening all the ends with the TS 55. That made it look a lot more professional.
Now on the fasteners.
[attachthumb=#6]
[attachthumb=#7]
This Camo system is pretty cool. As you can see, the device fits over the board and then you drop a proprietary screw into each of the ends at a 45 deg angle and it toenails the board into the joist. No exposed screws that way. If you make a mistake, you simply back it out. It was a bit more time consuming since the LOML made me do the main part of the deck at 45 deg so you had to move the holder down a bit to make sure I caught the joist. You squeeze the handle to get it to fit over the edges and when you let go, a spring holds it in place. I would really recommend this system as it requires no pre-drilling or using clips.
I still have to stain/preserve it and that will take place over the next weekend if the weather holds up. I was letting the wood dry out a bit. Sherwin-Williams has a nice product called DeckScape which is a water based uv protection/stain. I'll use my HVLP to apply the product and then roll it. The sprayer will allow me to get down into the space between the boards. All it all, I think it turned out pretty well.