Depth Stop Chuck

[emlclcy]

so looking how this chuck works, in slow motion the screw is fully engaged in the bit then as the collar of the chuck touches the work piece the screw carries on going in but the screw is progressively coming out of the driver bit until it is gnarling the end of the driver bit
is this how it works?
regards
carl

 

[threesixright]

You forgot to mention which chuck you mean. I have the  FT one. It has a clutch (i think) built in that disengages on touching the workpiece.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Roachmill]

Is this for the plasterboard / drywall screw gun? I can't imagine using a depth stop mechanism for putting in a screw otherwise - the clutch, as mentioned, is your friend there.

 

[emlclcy]

this is the chuck in question
Festool Depth Stop DC UNI FF - 769126

 

[threesixright]

this is the chuck in question
Festool Depth Stop DC UNI FF - 769126

Yeah thats the one I have. It has a built in clutch. Works pretty good (not only for plasterboard).

 

[emlclcy]

Yeah thats the one I have. It has a built in clutch. Works pretty good (not only for plasterboard).
[/quote]

so when you press the collar it stops the bit turning? i thought the collar just ran on a bearing so it would not mark the work piece

 

[threesixright]

Yeah thats the one I have. It has a built in clutch. Works pretty good (not only for plasterboard).

so when you press the collar it stops the bit turning? i thought the collar just ran on a bearing so it would not mark the work piece

The collar (red arrow) can spin freely. You can actually take it of to exchange the bit.

Once the clutch disengages (i think, never check it) the bit stops turning. But nevertheless, the collar doesn't spin (i.e.e not connected to the shaft), so you will have no marks left on your workpiece. It's expensive, but brilliant piece of kit.

Also works on the CXS.

 

[emlclcy]

The collar (red arrow) can spin freely. You can actually take it of to exchange the bit.

Once the clutch disengages (i think, never check it) the bit stops turning. But nevertheless, the collar doesn't spin (i.e.e not connected to the shaft), so you will have no marks left on your workpiece. It's expensive, but brilliant piece of kit.

Also works on the CXS.
[/quote]

i can see the collar comes off to reveal a bearing so the collar does not mark the part and there is a click adjustment to move the bit in and out so i dont get how the clutch works, it looks like the collar just makes the screw cam out of the bit. can you try it on a very slow speed to see what a cross head driver sounds like as it finishes?

 

[blaszcsj]

what is the advantage of this chuck/clutch over the electronic one it the C18/T18?is it finer adjustment?

 

[emlclcy]

what is the advantage of this chuck/clutch over the electronic one it the C18/T18?is it finer adjustment?

if you are fixing to say studding and screw into a knot the electronic clutch will kick in soon i guess

 

[AlexThePalex]

what is the advantage of this chuck/clutch over the electronic one it the C18/T18?is it finer adjustment?

The electronic clutch measures the amount of resistance it gets from screwing, electronically, while the depth stop chuck simply limits the screw to a certain depth, mechanically.

The electronic clutch is thus always indirect, and can vary from screw to screw, while the depth stop chuck is always at the same depth. They're mainly used to get consistent results with drywall.

 

[FestitaMakool]

I do also have this chuck.
When you’re tired of constantly fiddling with the electronic clutch, this is the one to go for.
It’s more general than the other depth stop chuck FT has, that is more a plaster specialist.

I’ve not used it too much yet, but I was very pleased with its performance on wood.
As said, it works on the TXS/CXS too. For repetitive screwing it’s great!

 

[emlclcy]

I do also have this chuck.
When you’re tired of constantly fiddling with the electronic clutch, this is the one to go for.
It’s more general than the other depth stop chuck FT has, that is more a plaster specialist.

I’ve not used it too much yet, but I was very pleased with its performance on wood.
As said, it works on the TXS/CXS too. For repetitive screwing it’s great!

i'm just curious that if you use it really slow does the screw and bit gnarl against each other at the point of disengaging

 

[threesixright]

I do also have this chuck.
When you’re tired of constantly fiddling with the electronic clutch, this is the one to go for.
It’s more general than the other depth stop chuck FT has, that is more a plaster specialist.

I’ve not used it too much yet, but I was very pleased with its performance on wood.
As said, it works on the TXS/CXS too. For repetitive screwing it’s great!

i'm just curious that if you use it really slow does the screw and bit gnarl against each other at the point of disengaging

I'm not able to make a video. My tools are at my house where we are rebuilding (and I'm not there). I'm not sure what you are exactly looking for, there are some videos that show the chuck is working. You are afraid the screws are still get damaged?

BTW I see that FT doesn't describe it as a clutch, but "integrated claw coupling" FWIW. Although I swear I saw a video where is was explained like a a clutch. Unfortunately I can not find that one. Maybe call FT and ask them?

 

[Roachmill]

...Although I swear I saw a video where is was explained like a a clutch. Unfortunately I can not find that one. Maybe call FT and ask them?

Having never even heard of the chuck in question I hit up Google and turned up a video by [member=3513]PaulMarcel[/member] of this parish. He works his helpful magic with it from 5:37 and does refer to it having a clutch - so maybe that was the one you were thinking of:
=337

It looks like a pretty pricey do-da for very specific applications IMHO. If I had to be that exact with screws in wood I'd be looking at ways of not using / hiding screws or, for plasterboard / drywall, I'd go for a dedicated driver. I'm sure there could be rare times when it may prove useful, but it's a bit of a price (even for a Festool accessory) to pay unless nothing else would do.

 

[threesixright]

...Although I swear I saw a video where is was explained like a a clutch. Unfortunately I can not find that one. Maybe call FT and ask them?

Having never even heard of the chuck in question I hit up Google and turned up a video by [member=3513]PaulMarcel[/member] of this parish. He works his helpful magic with it from 5:37 and does refer to it having a clutch - so maybe that was the one you were thinking of:
=337

Yeah, that might be it.  Although this is not the chuck in question (FT has two). And mine doesn't work as he describes it in the video. You can feel there is a spring, but the bit does turn when not pressed, unlike the DD-DC (that engages once you push it down).

There is DC UNI FF and there is DD-DC. I though here we discussed the DC UNI FF chuck.

Now I'm confused as-well  [big grin]

 

[Roachmill]

Ah, it is a different chuck.

So that makes it not one, but two, chucks I've never heard of [oops]

I'll just go stand quietly in the corner [embarassed]

 

[emlclcy]

yes two chucks, the one i'm talking about i would say it works by gradually removing the driver bit until no drive is exerted, what i mean by gnarly

 

[mrboult]

I had the Chuck pictured first in this thread. The one that fits all festool drills. Hi bought it as I had a chunk of plaster boarding to do in a renovation. It was good for that but I’ve since sold it because I don’t really have a use for it.

It does simply cam out of the screws at the set depth. Didn’t noticeably damage the screws in my memory, but if you’re being picky it might leave so kind of Mark.

Ultimately, it’s good for plaster boarding but for anything precious I’d rather drive it precisely myself with my festool drills and their wonderful control (I mean the trigger control/power not the clutch)

 

[emlclcy]

I had the Chuck pictured first in this thread. The one that fits all festool drills. Hi bought it as I had a chunk of plaster boarding to do in a renovation. It was good for that but I’ve since sold it because I don’t really have a use for it.

It does simply cam out of the screws at the set depth. Didn’t noticeably damage the screws in my memory, but if you’re being picky it might leave so kind of Mark.

Ultimately, it’s good for plaster boarding but for anything precious Id rather drive it precisely myself with my festool drills and their wonderful control (I mean the trigger control/power not the clutch)

nice on that answers my question, cheers
carl