Design fault with CMS-OF fence?

[stillwaterBR]

Compared to other router tables on the market, that is a very small amount of dust. I personally wouldn't sweat it and don't.

But it seems like you solved the problem.

+1. Router tables are just plain messy. You will drive yourself mad trying to capture every last bit. The sheer number of how many different bit diameters and profiles a router table must work with is so great that you are going to inevitably encounter certain bits that just don't allow for the saw dust and chips to be directed perfectly at the collection port. I am fortunate enough to have two separate cms setups for use on jobs and other router tables that stay in the shop permanently. The dust extraction of the CMS is pretty superior to what else is out there.

As the other posters have mentioned - gluing a metal scrap to fill that gap isn't something I would ever attempt.  some sort of mechanical fastener to hold that in place would be wise, or better yet an entirely different material. You don't want to be standing there if that ever comes free.

 

[Stone Message]

Having been the near victim of a Dewalt router collet failure one does have to be careful. I stood in total disbelief for nearly 10 minutes afterwards and checked for injuries several times. I was lucky - the router went in the bin.

Peter

 

[Mr Heavy]

Draught excluder tape is a wonderful thing - as is plasticine.

 

[mwahaha]

I would use 3mm pvc edgebanding, or build up smaller thicknesses to fill the gap... It would be durable enough to resist being worn away by chips and if it falls in to the blade it will be easily shredded. More dust/debris down the chute is better than less.

 

[Jonnio]

I have both cms and of2200 and would not dream of trying to attach anything that may come off near the cutter area. I think it's too dangerous. Even a bit of tape that may not harm you directly could distract you if flying about whilst you got a 89mm whoops I meant 60mm cutter spinning around!. Cheers

 

[Cheese]

[member=36526]Bohdan[/member]
I like your fix but I'd tweak it just a bit. I'd use aluminum angle, and trim one leg so it's the thickness of the fence. The longer leg would attach to the rear of the fence with 2 fasteners. Placing the one leg behind the fence would prevent the "spacer" from inadvertently joining the router bit at some point. I'd also use some blue thread locking compound on the 2 screws because the router vibrations will sooner or later loosen the screws.
Just my  [2cents]

 

[Bohdan]

[member=36526]Bohdan[/member]
I like your fix but I'd tweak it just a bit. I'd use aluminum angle, and trim one leg so it's the thickness of the fence. The longer leg would attach to the rear of the fence with 2 fasteners. Placing the one leg behind the fence would prevent the "spacer" from inadvertently joining the router bit at some point. I'd also use some blue thread locking compound on the 2 screws because the router vibrations will sooner or later loosen the screws.
Just my  [2cents]

Unfortunately the gap is tapered to almost nothing at the bottom where the fence almost touches the shroud so you can't wrap around the corner. Even fixing to the end of the fence is problematic because the fence will move back if you joint with the router.

The ideal gap stop would have to be attached to the back of the fence and angled to match the shroud but then as you move the fence back you might pinch it against the fence mechanism. I will have another look at the problem to see if this can be made to work.