Dewalt owner's review of the Kapex + Domino 500 impulse buy (non-pro)

[Cheese]

I think the shadow line only occurs if you use the optional scoring setting on the Mafell saw. I say this based on online research and YT demos, not from personal experience, as my batteries are still on a truck somewhere so I have not been able to try this saw.

Correct

 

[afish]

Correct, but the issue is when cutting white melamine or white cabinet liner "when you need the anti chip feature most" it will also be the most noticeable. On lower cab's it wouldn't be an issue for me but on uppers right at eye level it I see it as an issue. On wood interiors it probably wouldn't rub me the same way. However, it might just be me and might not bother others but 90% of my cabinets have white interiors.

 

[Svar]

You can disassemble the pivot hinge in MT55 and remove/replace special washer that causes scoring offset. Than the saw will function as any other plunge saw.

 

[Cheese]

You can disassemble the pivot hinge in MT55 and remove/replace special washer that causes scoring offset. Than the saw will function as any other plunge saw.

Good to know…Svar do you know what the offset is?

 

[Svar]

You can disassemble the pivot hinge in MT55 and remove/replace special washer that causes scoring offset. Than the saw will function as any other plunge saw.

Good to know…Svar do you know what the offset is?

It's 0.15 mm. There was a debate on YT whether it is visible or not, problem or not etc. The fact is it is 0.15 mm and you decide whether 0.15 mm gap is acceptable to you or not.
Another thing to keep in mind is if blade shifts to prevent chipping on one side it arguably makes chipping worse on the off cut (which is not necessarily waste).

Also, we totally hijacked the thread... Sorry. Split it? [member=1619]SRSemenza[/member]

 

[Michael Kellough]

I haven’t used that feature on my MT55, partly because it didn’t make sense to me to make on side of the cut worse than the other. I guess eventually I’ll find a situation where it is beneficial.

 

[Svar]

I haven’t used that feature on my MT55, partly because it didn’t make sense to me to make on side of the cut worse than the other. I guess eventually I’ll find a situation where it is beneficial.

Well, you kind of did. The blade shifts laterally mid plunge at ~10 mm depth whether you want it or not. The switch simply stops the plunge before the transition point. Having said that, in most cases it's inconsequential.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Didn’t know that. So far the cuts have been good enough anyway.

 

[mino]

Well, I for one do not remember last time I had use a tracksaw set to less than 10mm plunge depth.

Can see this being an issue if doing a plunging cut. With normal cuts one may not even notice if not cutting a very thin stock.

[member=15585]Svar[/member]
Thanks for the heads up. Knowing it is a shim/washer thing makes this a non-issue potentially.

 

[afish]

Don't waste your money on the LR32. Return the Domino and buy a Mafell DuoDoweler. Does the same stuff as the Domino albeit slightly differently. Results are just as strong. It also has an incredible easy to use template guide for shelf pin hole drilling. It requires absolutely zero thought as to how to orient it. The LR32 is a kluge at best. I owned one and got rid of it as soon as I saw the DuoDoweler. The Domino was sold off shortly after that. The OF1010 is a great router though and for that matter all of their routers are.

That is pretty bold statement there.  However based on what I found on my DDF40 there could be an issue on how you orient it.  If I put a straight edge from the sole or base of the DDF40 up to the fence on the left side they are perfectly flush.  If I do the same on the right side I have about .008 (possibly more as I didnt test with feeler gauges) of a gap between the fence and the straight edge.  I found this as I was getting some small misalignment issues and it took a bit to find it but its there.  Having said that I do agree the DDF40 is more useful building cabinets plus dowels are a whole lot cheaper than dominos.  There's a place for both at my shop. IF and thats a big IF I had to choose just one I would pick the DDF40 but I would miss the Domino. As stated the worst part about the LR32 is those edge guides but I had a way to eliminate them for the most part.  If I still had it I would be interested in race but I honestly dont see how anyone could have done it faster with the Mafell.  The way I used the LR32 I didnt even have to clamp the rail or part down and never had any wobbly shelves.  Not saying you will with the DDF40 but based on my recent discovery I could see the possibility.  Im interested to know if you check yours do you have the same error?  Ill look closer again tomorrow but since the fence is flush on the left and slightly short on the right it would seem like its a casting issue not a alignment issue as if the fence was shifted over to the left. 

Well, I guess its good that my built in feeler guages are still working. Not so great that my mafell fence is a little off.  I guessed it off about .008" it ended up being .0085" when measured with indicator.  The left side is between .000-.001 so the left side is good but the right is off .0085-.009 This causes me some issue when trying to match the cnc dowel holes so I will always have to reference off the left side. 

 

[batmanimal]

UPDATE: I upgraded the hose (Midi to Kapex) to the 36 diameter one over the weekend. I did not cut it, so it was the same length as the normal hose. I noticed a slight improvement in overall DC.

This is by no means a scientific assessment, as I did not track the exact number of cuts. But I did roughly the same number of cuts yesterday as I had done with my maiden voyage of the Kapex on the 27 hose. This time I used a mix of 2x4 cedar and 2x4 doug fir (last time was all cedar 2x4s).

While the total amount of visible wood particles left behind was roughly equivalent (slightly less using the bigger hose, but hard to say since I did not track cuts), the dust was much less "all over the place" with the 36 hose. When I observed my work station yesterday, there was very little dust on the top part of the saw body. It was mostly concentrated behind the fence. This anecdotal evidence leads me to believe that the 36 hose is probably doing a better job reigning in fine particles, since those scatter so freely in the air. So if there is less visible dust "all over the place," then my intuition is that there would be less invisible fine dust in the air, as well.

So I think the 36 hose upgrade is worth it, if my intuition is correct. That being said, I have purchased a 3M respirator to use in the future since my workshop is small and ventilated only out of one side (garage doors, no windows).

 

[ChuckM]

Some people buy the much cheaper Bosch hose and cut it short for their Kapex. I use a swimming pool hose from Lowe's for use with the Dust Deputy.

 

[mino]

Yep, with a stationary earthed tool like the Kapex one does not really need an anti-static hose to begin.

 

[ChuckM]

The only time that I find an anti-static hose useful is when I have tons and tons of sanding to do with a belt sander. The PRO5 Ltd and DF500 bring me zero issues when using the CT15 which came with a non-static hose.

 

[afish]

I also use a non anti static hose and never recieved even 1 mild shock even when sanding. 

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I find that the static charge comes from higher volume of chips/dust running through the hose, so lower  volume cuts/cutters like Domino, don't have much effect.
The material that you are cutting can play a role too. Plastics like solid surface, when routed, create a lot of static.
That said, I have a non-anti-static hose connected to the router table, mostly because it was cheap and didn't seem to matter. It does take some static charge, because I have seen dust cling to it on the outside, but I have never been shocked by it. That's probably because of the table though, I'm not touching it.
I did get zapped a few times in the old shop, but that was before the CT and the anti-static hose that came with it. I just had the silver hose and a cheap "Shop vac". I don't really remember what it was that shocked me? It wasn't all the time, just certain situations, router maybe?

 

[ChuckM]

Snip. because I have seen dust cling to it on the outside, but I have never been shocked by it. Snip.

Lots seen near the end connected to the belt sander after a long sanding session. Shock? We sometimes experience that on very cold days when we walk on carpeted floor and touch the door knob. None in the shop.

 

[batmanimal]

Some people buy the much cheaper Bosch hose and cut it short for their Kapex. I use a swimming pool hose from Lowe's for use with the Dust Deputy.

Ohhhh - this is a good idea.

I may return the 36 AS hose (and the ~$30 reducer I had to get for the tool end to work with my 27mm tool ports), and pick up the CT15 and cheaper Bosch hose to dedicate to the Kapex. Then I would share the Midi with my track saw, router, domino, etc. That would be like $250 more, and nets me a dedicated Kapex vac, which I think would be worth it?

 

[ChuckM]

Anyone use a Bosch hose for the Kapex?  Please advise what else Batmanial needs to use a CT15 and Bosch hose with his Kapex.

 

[afish]

my go to place for hose is cen-tec. great folks over there. If you dont see it on the website. give them a call they will set you up with what you need.