DF 500 Stacked Tenons

[benwheeler]

Hello Domino People,

I've been wondering about putting decent-sized (10mm?) dominos 2 or 3 deep, in place of buying the XL for doing larger jobs (tables etc). I've seen several examples of stacked tenons in the official literature, but not really read anything about it.

Since I don't have a thicknesser and may end up preparing stock by hand, referencing the bottom surface for additional tenons may not be an option. Is it possible, perhaps using any Woodpecker, Seneca or other products, to accurately cut mortises further from the top surface than the machine initially allows for?

Thanks for any thoughts.

Ben

 

[Tinker]

I have only done single row of mortices with my Domino.  According to my printout directions, i can do two or more rows as long as i reference from the same side and same edge of the wood. It is the same if you do a mating piece offset or recessed. (I have done that) If reference from the top edge that you have prepared flat and square, it doesn't matter how thick or uneven the wood is on the backsides.  It is very important that the prepared surfaces are true.
Tinker

 

[benwheeler]

The recommendation I've read is to leave the thickness of the tenon as a space in between tenons. If you follow this rule, then according to my crude mathematics the DF 500 can make mortises at the appropriate height to stack 8mm tenons, but not 10mm ones. Now, granted, stacking 10mm tenons would mean quite thick material (50mm+) but this isn't outside the realms of possibility.

Anyway, just interested to know if it has or can be done!

 

[Birdhunter]

I'll put a concept on the table and see if it holds up under scrutiny.

Place the good (reference) side on the board to be mortised face down on a truly flat surface like an MFT. The rough side will be up. Mark the location of the desired mortises on the rough side.

Pivot the Domino fence to the vertical position. It will not be used.

Butt the Domino against the board using the MFTas the base surface. Cut the first mortise.

Place a shim, cut to desired separation distance between mortises, under the Domino base. Cut the second mortise.

Stack a second shim on top of the first shim and cut the third mortise.

Keep stacking shims and cutting mortises until you have as many as you need.

Repeat the process on the other board to be joined.

The keys to this concept are to have the good side of the board fully flat (clamped) against the MFT top and use the shims in the same order (in case they are not exactly the same thickness.

I don't know if this concept would work in practice, it's just an idea. Frankly, I'd use the project as an excuse to buy an XL.

 

[tjbnwi]

I use the fence to set the first row of Dominos, adjust the fence set the second row, adjust the fence, do the 3rd row.

Tom

 

[benwheeler]

Birdhunter, that's a good workaround if it really became necessary. Thanks!

I was just having another look at the upcoming Woodpecker offset base:

http://www.woodpeck.com/ottdf500obs.html

I would think if they'd made the whole thing a bit wider, then longer spacers would be possible, making what I've asked about possible. That's assuming the thing was sturdy enough..

 

[Birdhunter]

My concept was for a situation for which the the 500's fence didn't have sufficient vertical adjustment range for the board's thickness.

 

[gippy]

Birdhunter's method is what I use with the biscuit joiner, I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work with a Domino.