+1 [big grin] [big grin]Cheese said:PeterJJames13 said:But for me - the DF700 is a compliment to the DF500. Not an upgrade.
+1 [big grin]
+1 [big grin] [big grin]Cheese said:PeterJJames13 said:But for me - the DF700 is a compliment to the DF500. Not an upgrade.
+1 [big grin]
ChuckS said:If Festool released a DF600 covering tenon sizes from 6mm to 10mm (x80mm), I'd sell my DF500 (weight: 7 lb) and get it, assuming its weight being 7 to 8 lb or so (DF700 is 11.4 lb).
I expect Festool to make a "refresh" of the DF500 either some time after competition comes with their versions. To get some more edge on the competition, possibly incorporating some addl. patented features for added value.smorgasbord said:
mino said:DF700 is here to stay the same way the TS75 stood with us all those years while we are on a 3rd gen TS55. Too low-volume to warrant a refresh anytime soon.smorgasbord said:
smorgasbord said:ChuckS said:If Festool released a DF600 covering tenon sizes from 6mm to 10mm (x80mm), I'd sell my DF500 (weight: 7 lb) and get it, assuming its weight being 7 to 8 lb or so (DF700 is 11.4 lb).
Yeah, when I saw the numbering scheme that Festool was using my first thought was that they were allowing for (not necessarily planning for) an in-between tool.
For me, it's kind of mechanics socket sets. I mostly grab my ⅜" set that goes from 6mm to 19mm, but there are times I want either the ¼" set (5mm to 15mm) or the ½" set (10mm to 24mm) instead. And even though the ¼" set only goes two sizes smaller than the ⅜" (5.5mm and 5mm), the shallower sockets and shorter/lighter ratchet make a difference sometimes. And same for the ½" set - sometimes you need that extra leverage/beefiness.
Now, if I could afford or were somehow restricted to having just one set, I'd naturally choose the ⅜" since it would cover probably 90+% of what I do, and there are adapters to run other sockets.
What Festool has done is give us the equivalent of ¼" socket set and a ½" socket set. That makes it hard to choose when you can only have one.
What I think is going to be interesting is that when the patents expire and DeWalt or Bosch or Mafell can sell domino mortise making machines, what size(s) will they choose? For instance, a middle-sized tool that can go down to 6mm and up to 12mm might be the sweet spot, even if plunge depth were restricted to 50mm or even 40mm. Of course, different woodworkers may have different sweet spots.
ChuckS said:For me, there has never been an issue of width with the DF500, but depth. I could always make mortises of whatever width by overlapping the cuts, and then use shop-made tenons of the desired width. But a simpler solution is to use double tenons or twin tenons depending on the orientation.
So if a DF600 could not cut much deeper mortises than the DF500 already does, its added value would be minimal to me, and there would be no point for me to get it. 50mm deep is just 25mm on each mating side; even adding 10mm to the final depth (30mm on each side) wouldn't be good enough for my kind of needs.
So max 65mm/70mm milling depth for the DF600...or else.
I think you are right, to some degree anyway. I would imagine they sell more of the DF700 than most would think, but some of that has been driven by the recent shortages? TS75 and Vac Sys, too.Bertotti said:The equipment store I buy at had one for a couple months then I went on to get it and it was gone. They ordered a couple more and I got one and the other was gone in a couple of days. I think the TS75 is higher as well. They got three in and they were all gone in a couple of weeks, of course just before I went in for one!
luvmytoolz said:Snip.
I recently did some testing with my 500 and 700, and measured the slot widths as per below:
DF500 N M W
4mm 16.5 21.5 25
5mm 19 24 28.5
6mm 20 25.5 29.5
8mm 22 27 31.5
10mm 24 29 33.5
Snip.
I think this has to do with the 1/4" set being in the same class as 1/4" hex bits, so is kinda an extension of that system.Crazyraceguy said:...
I like the socket set analogy too. I have gotten along with my minimal 3/8" drive set in the cabinet shop for a couple of years. I recently upgraded to the Festool socket and driver set. Coincidentally enough, it is all 1/4" and 1/2" drive. Same thing, hit both ends and let the overlap be, rather than a middle set.
As it was, I needed extremes both ways. I have been working on an old Whitney 177 table saw and required sockets larger than the 22mm I had, plus the longer ratchet. The 3/8" set has always been a bit overkill for the smaller end.
...
I don't expect Festool to release another DF given the fact that the patent is to expire in a couple years. I'm pinning my hope on other manufacturers which may see a gap, and after 2024 produce a clone joiner that is not just an exact copy of the DF500 in terms of mortising capacity.mino said:Snip.
Still not sure it makes sense - what DF500 lacks is depth, and I am not sure they could achieve, say, 50mm depth without making the tool bulkier.
Snip..]
ChuckS said:For me, there has never been an issue of width or thickness with the DF500, but depth. I could always make mortises of whatever width/thickness by overlapping the cuts, and then use shop-made tenons of the desired width and thickness. But a simpler solution is to use double tenons or twin tenons depending on the orientation, or both if applicable.
So if a DF600 could not cut much deeper mortises than the DF500 already does, its added value would be minimal to me, and there would be no point for me to get it. 50mm deep is just 25mm on each mating side; even adding 10mm to the final depth (30mm on each side) wouldn't be good enough for my kind of needs.
So max 65mm/70mm milling depth for the DF600...or else.
Edit: 70mm refers to the total depth.
luvmytoolz said:Given the DF700 can do 8-14mm slots from 0mm to 70mm deep depending on the cutter, the only thing missing is the ability to do 4, 5, and 6mm slots, so a Seneca adaptor would be the best option to cover all bases if you really wanted the option but didn't want to spring for 2 machines, a proper Festool adaptor would be good, but I think as they'd be cutting their own lunch that one's unlikely.
I missed that step. Thanks for the picture and info!!!ChuckS said:You can lock the paddles away with an Allen key. The user manual covers that step.
[attachimg=1]
smorgasbord said:Found this new video on YouTube:
If you can ignore the crude jokes, it actually presents a good case for which one to get.