Dining room chair construction using the Domino

[BillN]

I am about to enter uncharted territory for me - dining room chairs as a gift. This is what I bring to the table besides rookie enthusiasm: 1) a good model - my own chairs that I bought years ago; 2) I've read quite a bit about making chairs; 3) I've watched some videos; 4)I bought a set of plans that are similar to my model.

I intend to make a prototype out of poplar or dimensional lumber first.  Aside from the curved rear legs that I think I may be able to handle, the problem, as you might imagine, are those #$@% angles. The rear legs cant inward at about 4 degrees to allow the back to splay out. The rails running from front to back angle both out (to allow for the seat to be wider at the front) and also slightly downward running to the back.  To eliminate some pain I am not having to scoop out seats - they will be upholstered. I have a Domino machine, but the top fence is all but useless in this situation because there won't be much material for it to rest on in the case of the front or rear leg and it appears that the front to back rails may require a compound angle. Using the table saw and one of those magnetic angle finders I made some wedges at several different slight angles (4, 6 and 9 degrees). I then clamped a piece of scrap to my table using the wedges to tilt the scrap and then plunged the Domino in using the table as a flat reference point. This did indeed get me a slightly angled mortise and I think I can probably make accurate repetitive mortises this way. However, I'm not sure I can cut a mortise that is angled in two directions using this method. Any ideas? Maybe I can angle the Domino in by clamping two rails to my table for the domino to reference from in the same manner one uses rails at an angle to make molding on the tablesaw. Has anyone tried this approach?

I am also looking into something like a Super FMT jig since it apparently is built to do compound angles for chairs. By the time the sawdust settles on the acquisiton for the jig and related accessories I can say goodbye to $600 or more. (However, nice looking chairs can easily run $200-$300 each so maybe this is one of those "but honey I'm actually SAVING money!" - I know, pretty lame.) Is the Super FMT or something similar the answer? Does anyone have experience with chairs? I have seen some nice home brew M&T jigs for the router, but I don't recall that they had the compound angle capacity. I remember seeing someone using wedges and and a vise as part of an M&T home brew to get the angles, but I don't think I'm up to that level.

 

[tigger]

Firstly  [welcome]

Now, about those chairs.....

What I did for my first time chair build was to get some 30mm MDF. (it's easy to cut, thickness, router etc) I then took all my ideas, much like yours, and started to play. You will find that after a few cock-ups, the domino can be used for every joint you require. You will also learn how much support pieces you need and where.
It's a bit difficult for me to explain the process in writing, but just use your ideas and the MDF and start cutting the angles you think will work and how the pieces will fit together.
After much  [dead horse] , you will have a completed chair. Use this "proto-type" and your intended lumber to build your chairs by simply copying.
NOW,... There are a lot of resources that can help and tell you "how to", but, being the type of person I am, I prefered to go this longer route because it gives me the opporunity to learn in a practicle sense.
I don't think there is a chair I can't make, and I know the best way to make it. 8 Yrs after making my first chair, it's still as good as the day I made it.

I realise this may not be what you wanted to hear, but I promise that you will impress yourself with what you will accomplish.

Good luck

 

[chrisrosenb]

Here is a link to some chairs I made using the Domino.
I had purchased a Leigh FMT for this job, but after making test cuts with both, I decided the Domino was simpler & quicker.

Domino Chairs

 

[BillN]

Thanks guys.  At least I feel confident that the Domino can do the job.  It seems to me that when I get to gluing that epoxy may be the way to go as opposed to Titebond. Do you have any opinions on that sticky problem.  [wink]

 

[chrisrosenb]

I used Titebond glue on the chairs I built.

 

[Tezzer]

I used Titebond glue on the chairs I built.

Same here, but i use epoxy on the corner blocks. Probably dont need it, but its for peace of mind when you are selling them to other people.

Domino is awesome for chairs.  ;D

 

[BillN]

Thanks for the input on the glue question.

I think I may have come up with a solution to the angle problem. Suppose I cut a pice of MDF or plywood in a trapezoid shape and use those holes on the bottom of the Domino to attach it. The angled side of the trapezoid would stick out in front of the base fence in a slight angle. As I push the Domino up to the workpiece the slightly angled bottom attachment would guide the face of the Domino into the workpiece at the correct angle. I could also stick a piece of PS sandpaper on the leading edge of the trapezoid to give it some tooth to stay in place as I contact the workpiece. Does that sound workable? Also, where in the FOG have users tended to discuss these issues?

Thanks for any help.

Bill

 

[jvsteenb]

Regarding the glueing question:

It depends. Epoxy is very strong, but so is Titebond III for instance.  But eventually, a joint will fail - at the glueline, or elsewhere.

The main reason many heirloom furniture pieces are still in good shape when taken care of properly, is the use of hide-glue.
It's certainly strong enough, but won't last for ages - eventually the constant movement of the wood due to moisture swings and normal use will loosen some joints.
Then again, IF a joint fails, it's almost always the glueline that fails, and its imminently repairable.
So if you want to make a piece of furniture that can stand the test of time and will be serviceable in the future, use solid wood and  a PVA glue, or better still, a hide-glue or bone-glue.

Epoxy-, resorcinol-, phenolic- or urethane-based glues  (all very valuable glues for a wide range of purposes!) can't do that for you.

Just a thought.

Regards,

Job