Dining Room

Another reason I love track saws. .

Panel needed scribed on a taper 1/2" to sit flush to the wall and to the doors:

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30 degree back bevel:

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Perfect fit off the saw:

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Matt
 
This filler strip is holding me up.

After primer:

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Raised ridges/grain/veneer lift

Sanded down:

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I put a coat of BIN shellac white on, sanded that, and put another coat of primer on:

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It's much better but it's still there:

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I can feel the raised portions even though they're slight.

Guy I talk to who does this stuff professionally said to cut out the veneer around that area because there's a void underneath and bondo it. Any other options? I'm ready to break out my router and remove the top veneer in that area. This is driving my nuts.

Matt
 
What about piercing them and inject some superglue and then press down?

Should only need a light touch up then, and the benefit is you don't need to cut through and bondo the resulting hole?
 
luvmytoolz said:
What about piercing them and inject some superglue and then press down?

Should only need a light touch up then, and the benefit is you don't need to cut through and bondo the resulting hole?

That would probably work. I just want to move on and well. .here we go:

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After it cures I'll sand it down and hit the entire face with shellac sealcoat and re-prime.
 
DynaGlide said:
luvmytoolz said:
What about piercing them and inject some superglue and then press down?

Should only need a light touch up then, and the benefit is you don't need to cut through and bondo the resulting hole?

That would probably work. I just want to move on and well. .here we go:

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After it cures I'll sand it down and hit the entire face with shellac sealcoat and re-prime.

Good old Rock Hard. Some things just work, pinnacle of evolution.

Project looks great Matt, you are in the home stretch.

RMW
 
Richard/RMW said:
Good old Rock Hard. Some things just work, pinnacle of evolution.

Project looks great Matt, you are in the home stretch.

RMW

Thanks Richard. I've used it sparingly in the past when painting cabinet drawer fronts. It hasn't caused issue. Stuff has been around forever.
 
neilc said:
Looking great!  I think the scribes will look fine given the extra compensation you built in. 

Any visitors that go into the room with a tape measure should be kicked to the curb!

Amen! I have said that so many times.
As you guys know, I usually build huge objects that have to be disassembled for transport. It is always done with the assumption that the floor is not only level, but flat too, and the walls perpendicular to it.
This is never the case, most of the time, none of them are. Things have to be adjusted/scribed, or covered with trim of some kind.

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] veneer bubbles are always a pain. I think your approach of just going for it is great. You can mess around with trying to glue it down, but it might fail again later, assuming it sticks in the first try.
Rock Hard is fine. It is a suitable filler for places that are too big for spackle and it doesn't have the offensive odor of Bondo. I don't mind it, used the stuff for years, but most folks find it off-putting, just like Silicone.

Looks great, can't wait to see the pics of the completed project.
 
Crazyraceguy said:
neilc said:
Looking great!  I think the scribes will look fine given the extra compensation you built in. 

Any visitors that go into the room with a tape measure should be kicked to the curb!

Amen! I have said that so many times.
As you guys know, I usually build huge objects that have to be disassembled for transport. It is always done with the assumption that the floor is not only level, but flat too, and the walls perpendicular to it.
This is never the case, most of the time, none of them are. Things have to be adjusted/scribed, or covered with trim of some kind.

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] veneer bubbles are always a pain. I think your approach of just going for it is great. You can mess around with trying to glue it down, but it might fail again later, assuming it sticks in the first try.
Rock Hard is fine. It is a suitable filler for places that are too big for spackle and it doesn't have the offensive odor of Bondo. I don't mind it, used the stuff for years, but most folks find it off-putting, just like Silicone.

Looks great, can't wait to see the pics of the completed project.

Thank you. I had the same feelings about the glue. Bondo or Rock Hard seems more bullet proof. If somethings janky just cut it out and replace.

I would love to be done. I just don't have time to dedicate to this.
 
DynaGlide said:
I would love to be done. I just don't have time to dedicate to this.

I know how that goes. The TV stand I started 6-7 months ago, is still sitting there in pieces. It's for me, not a huge priority, especially in the summer heat. I'm just not motivated to put in the time, after a hot day.
 
DynaGlide said:
Richard/RMW said:
Good old Rock Hard. Some things just work, pinnacle of evolution.

Project looks great Matt, you are in the home stretch.

RMW

Thanks Richard. I've used it sparingly in the past when painting cabinet drawer fronts. It hasn't caused issue. Stuff has been around forever.

Not to mention it lasts forever. My can is at least 20 years old, seems to get used by the teaspoon-full at a time.

RMW
 
DynaGlide said:
I used the 32mm holes to install Blum under mounts then clamped my stretchers to those before stapling and screwing. So easy.

Matt

Drawer slides then Stretcher....  [blink]  totally blew my mind.

Work flow adjusted.

Cheers,
Dan
 
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I hate finishing. It's so time intensive and stressful. Last night I was doing a top coat and hit just the edge of one of my doors when my spray stand fell over. Luckily I was able to recover with minimal damage. Just a dinged corner and I could wipe/sand off the wet top coat. What hadn't occurred to me at the time was that my spray stand is threaded on the pole and I was spinning my parts counter clockwise. Welp you know what happens if you keep doing that.

I have 2 coats primer, 1 coat of Gallery series on the backs and edges of almost all the parts. I ran out before getting to the glass doors and decided to quit while I was ahead. I've found there's a delicate balance between how long you can go with the HVLP gun before things start to gum up and you should at a minimum flush it or what I prefer to do is just strip it and clean between refills. It avoids issues.

One of the reasons I have mixed feelings about the 2QT pot I bought. It is more convenient but the last time I used it by the time I got through the 2QT the gun was the most gummed up I've ever seen it. It was in the 90s that day and I'm sure that had something to do with it. I haven't used it since and have gone back to my 3M PPS cups.

Matt
 
I have followed this thread but I can't help re-iterating how cool your bench is.  I followed that thread and a lot of it was just incredible.  For a regular guy to make something like that, well, it is just amazing to me.  Excellent job.
 
Rick Herrick said:
I have followed this thread but I can't help re-iterating how cool your bench is.  I followed that thread and a lot of it was just incredible.  For a regular guy to make something like that, well, it is just amazing to me.  Excellent job.

Thank you [member=72312]Rick Herrick[/member] . I can't believe it myself most days. I love that bench and use it all the time. It's still funny to think back on. I ran out and bought a bunch of maple and had no idea what I was getting into. 6 months later I had bought a jointer and finished the bench. Kinda crazy to think about.

Matt
 
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Almost there. .so much time sunk into this room. To do list: glass for upper doors. Hardware for doors/drawers. Crown molding.
 
Yeah, really, really nice! Great journey, can’t wait to see the final picture, it’s gonna be stunning!

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
Crazyraceguy said:
It just keeps getting better and better.

six-point socket II said:
Yeah, really, really nice! Great journey, can’t wait to see the final picture, it’s gonna be stunning!

Kind regards,
Oliver

neilc said:
Looks fantastic!  What time is dinner?!

Thanks guys. I had to take a break from this project. I'm pretty sick of working on it! I got all the hardware and trim on. First and second round of caulking done I need to tape off the joint between the wallpaper and the trim and do the last row. Then prime. Then paint. And I think that's mostly it? Once I get the 4th piece of door glass in I'm waiting on a replacement.

The crown turned out nice. If I had a do-over I would feather in some drywall compound to even the ceiling in the middle between the cabinets. The ceiling slopes 1/4" in that short distance from the wall to the front of the cabinets and it shows as a ramped angle because the first crown buildup is perfectly level to the cabinets and the crown on top is not. Oh well! Live and learn. Pre-assembly on the outside miters was the way to go here. Butt joints on other ends and I had to do two double copes to make it work. This is the second time I've done crown and I hate it every time. The reveal is more than I wanted between the base and the crown but I must've messed up somewhere. I intended for a 5" gap between top of upper cabinets and ceiling but it's closer to 7".

I'm going to attempt to top coat the crown with SW Gallery in a higher sheen for a color match to the cabinets. It's what I sprayed them with. The SW rep couldn't match the Gallery I sprayed in their Emerald Urethane line. I'm a little nervous about this because it's marketed as a spray only product but according to his rep some of the customers brush it anyway. I did a scrap piece and it looks good but I wonder about doing an entire wall.

Fingers crossed I'm done this week. .I hope.

Matt

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Big projects can definitely get old, before the end. It sure came out great though.
I don't know if I had mentioned it before, but I really like the drawer at the bottom of the upper units.
 
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