Disappointment with Woodpeckers lift and table

agarwalsa

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Joined
Jan 10, 2010
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84
I wanted a second router table setup and after giving up on the hopes of seeing a CMS anytime soon (except at the Festool class) I did some research and bought a Incra LS17, Incra/Woodpeckers PRL v2 with a Milwaukee 5625-20 and a Woodpeckers 27x43 offset table which i recieved this week.  I have the Incra Ultra 16 and Jessem Rout-R-Lift as my previous setup.

I have always loved Festool, Incra and Lie-Nielsen stuff and it is always a joy getting one of these tools. Having read all the positive press about Woodpeckers I expected it to be in the same category but i am terribly disappointed.

The lift for the 5625 actually puts the router such that the switch and speed control face the back. Hello !! Upon calling Woodpeckers they suggested Milwaukee makes their routers that way although i thought the lift was made for the router not the router for the lift. I am not too fascinated by the thumbwheel adjustment either - as it seems it will take a lot of effort and time trying to push it up 4 full revolutions (1/4") - the older style PRL and the jessem which i have with  a crank seems like a breeze.

The table is not flat and the edge banding is already peeling off a new table!

I am not sure what to do. I believe the fine adjustment screw of the milwaukee can be removed so i could mount it the right way  but it requires taking of the motor cover plate and i am not sure if it is wise to do. When you spend $1000 on a router table setup you expect it to be flawless. I could return the lift and table and use the router mounted on a MDF board with the LS17 or look for better alternatives. Any suggestions?

 
Sorry to hear about your bad experience with the Woodpecker lift.  Which table did you get (the MDF or the new Phenolic)?

As far as the router goes, it is fairly easy to remove the adjustment screw, but you would only want to do that if the router is dedicated to the table.
All you need to do is remove the red outer cap, remove the brushes, seperate the case from the rotor (this lifts the black plastic plate from the rest of the router) and remove the screw, then reassemble.  Sounds harder than it really is.

You should contact Woodpeckers about your experience.  From what I've heard they will work with you to get it to your satisfaction.  Let us know how it turns out.

-Harry
 
JessEm's having a September clearance special on their imported phenolic top and other products.  Check out their site.
 
If you spend that much and are not happy return the stuff now. I would not hesitate if I was not happy.
 
What I really "liked" about the PRL lift, specifically built for the 5625, was that you have to use shims to have the bit centered relative to the top plate that it protrudes through.  A lift built for one specific type of router shouldn't need shims of any kind.
 
After years of going through Every lift you can think of I am resigned to the fact that KISS is best.

With this set up I can get to height and switch bits faster than any system devised. It may seem old school, but is the best. I would race anyone with this system and  beat them and still get the most accurate precise bit change and height(no lift). It's dustless with the attachment as well. I moved my large tables out of the shop and now just keep this little baby on hand. Unless I have a huge job this is my go to table.

Don't laugh, this is a fantastic KISS system. I would recommend it anyone:

http://www.oak-park.com/usa12.html

 
nickao said:
It's dustless with the attachment as well.

Um, I'm never embarrassed to ask the dumb question, so here goes:  what attachment?  Thanks in advance.

Regards,

John
 
2ooladdict said:
I wanted a second router table setup and after giving up on the hopes of seeing a CMS anytime soon (except at the Festool class) I did some research and bought a Incra LS17, Incra/Woodpeckers PRL v2 with a Milwaukee 5625-20 and a Woodpeckers 27x43 offset table which i recieved this week.  I have the Incra Ultra 16 and Jessem Rout-R-Lift as my previous setup.

I have always loved Festool, Incra and Lie-Nielsen stuff and it is always a joy getting one of these tools. Having read all the positive press about Woodpeckers I expected it to be in the same category but i am terribly disappointed.

The lift for the 5625 actually puts the router such that the switch and speed control face the back. Hello !! Upon calling Woodpeckers they suggested Milwaukee makes their routers that way although i thought the lift was made for the router not the router for the lift. I am not too fascinated by the thumbwheel adjustment either - as it seems it will take a lot of effort and time trying to push it up 4 full revolutions (1/4") - the older style PRL and the jessem which i have with  a crank seems like a breeze.

The table is not flat and the edge banding is already peeling off a new table!

I am not sure what to do. I believe the fine adjustment screw of the milwaukee can be removed so i could mount it the right way  but it requires taking of the motor cover plate and i am not sure if it is wise to do. When you spend $1000 on a router table setup you expect it to be flawless. I could return the lift and table and use the router mounted on a MDF board with the LS17 or look for better alternatives. Any suggestions?

Bummer... sorry to hear about your experience.  I was looking at that setp myself.  I want a really good router table setup and the thumbwheel seemed convenient.  I also read today that someone saw the new "Sidewinder" at a show and it wasn't working so well either (stiction), as it was difficult to adjust.  I liked my Cast Iron Bench Dog when I had it on the fence was my only complaint which is an easy remedy.  Did you happen to see the new bench dog table where the base is a metal cabinet with doors and storage and good dust collection box?  I'll keep looking.  [sad]
Chris...
 
Perhaps not of much interest to you at this point, but I chose the 3.23HP Triton combined with a Woodpecker's aluminum plate. Above-the-table bit changes and height adjustment eliminate the need for a router lift. And I saved a couple of hundred bucks in the process (versus buying a lift). BTW, the Triton has been a very pleasant surprise, because the dust control and noise level are excellent. If you have the opportunity to return your equipment, this is  route worth contemplating.

Good luck!
 
What I really "liked" about the PRL lift, specifically built for the 5625, was that you have to use shims to have the bit centered relative to the top plate that it protrudes through.  A lift built for one specific type of router shouldn't need shims of any kind.

Glad to know this as I was thinking of the older PRL which does not have the thumbwheel. It takes 7 to 8 pushes to move the thumbwheel one revolution (1/16") so about 30 pushes to move it a 1/4" and it is limited to +- 3/8".

Perhaps not of much interest to you at this point, but I chose the 3.23HP Triton combined with a Woodpecker's aluminum plate. Above-the-table bit changes and height adjustment eliminate the need for a router lift. And I saved a couple of hundred bucks in the process (versus buying a lift). BTW, the Triton has been a very pleasant surprise, because the dust control and noise level are excellent. If you have the opportunity to return your equipment, this is  route worth contemplating.

I had considered the Triton earlier but read that it cannot take 3 1/2" bits. The Milwaukee fixed base actually  comes with a built in lift but even they designed their base such that when you mount it to a table the switch and speed are at the back - one of the reasons why i thought a lift designed for this router will solve this problem.

As far as the router goes, it is fairly easy to remove the adjustment screw, but you would only want to do that if the router is dedicated to the table.
All you need to do is remove the red outer cap, remove the brushes, seperate the case from the rotor (this lifts the black plastic plate from the rest of the router) and remove the screw, then reassemble.  Sounds harder than it really is.

Thanks a lot for this information. I will use as a last resort. My router will be dedicated to the table as i have a 1010 (just love this one) and 1400 to use as handhelds.

Right now i think it may be best to just cut an opening for a plate in my Sawstop extension table and mount the Milwaukee although i am not sure if the extension will take the load without sagging. Has anyone done this?
 
John Stevens it's called the Vacu-plate system and is included for 20.00 in the extra package.

With the entire table it's called the BRT30001 Basic Router Table (with Vacu-plate system) as opposed to the BRT30002 Basic Router Table(with standard plate).

It can be purchased separately, but is only helpful with this system.
 
The minor problems I've had with Woodpeckers products have been remediated easily by a simple phone call. In my experience they back up their products very well, and have even paid for the international shipping to make corrections.
As far as the switch being in the wrong position, any well designed router table should employ an independent on/off switch (with the big red off button) mounted with easy access. Do yourself a big favor and go to the hardware store and buy one and wire it to a double outlet, this makes it easy to hook up an external dust collector if you don't have an integrated DC in your shop space. The only reason I can see why many manufacturers don't offer these standard is that they don't want people locking the main switches in the on position, but in my main router table, the motor (OF 2000+Routerraizer) stays under the table.
 
nickao said:
John Stevens it's called the Vacu-plate system and is included for 20.00 in the extra package.

With the entire table it's called the BRT30001 Basic Router Table (with Vacu-plate system) as opposed to the BRT30002 Basic Router Table(with standard plate).

It can be purchased separately, but is only helpful with this system.

Thanks, Nickao.

Regards,

John
 
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