Disc TV console

[Hetzenauer]

Hello FOG fans,

First of all I would like to thank everyone for their kind and motivating words on our first posted project, the split table.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=6084.0

Along with pictures of that particular table came the TV console sitting behind it.

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As promised I will share the building process of the TV console as detailed as possible. But not after I told you some about us. We live in the Netherlands. I am 33 years old, my girlfriend is 28 years of age (put it here without her consent... ). Oh, and we have 2 cats that love to be around when we work on a project.
Although I have been slowly collecting more and more festools since 8 years now, we started making furniture about 10 months ago. For me woodworking is just a great hobby and I consider myself a novice compared to some of you guys. My girlfriend is an interior designer by profession. Usually she comes up with an idea and together we keep adjusting until we are satisfied with the result. Before actually building we have the complete project worked out on the computer (using AutoCad). Almost every detail of the building process is documented that way. This eliminates some of the potential errors beforehand.

As some of you probably noticed in the split table project, our living room is like an extension of my tiny shop. (This is one of the main advantages having your wife participate in the project). This is my shop just to give you an impression. (Dimensions: L 12 feet, W 6 feet, H 9 feet).

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OK, enough, over to the Disc TV console project:

We started out with a few sheets of 1 inch and 3/4 inch MDF. First we ripped the plates using the ATF55 and guiderail. Then, using the MFT3 and ATF55 we crosscut all parts to final dimensions. The complete front panel was left in one piece and not cut any further until later.

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Then we made four slits in the backpanel for the wires to go through and for ventilation. I used a 35 mm Euro-hinge boring bit and the PS 200 jigsaw to do it.

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After that I made the 32mm shelf pins using a jig with the OF1010 and a 5 mm spiral bit.

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These were most of the router bits we used in this project.

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Our most used tool by far was the Domino. We used screws only for the hinges. I believe we used about 100 5x30 mm domino's.

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Here you get an idea of how things are working out. This pic shows the console lying with the front down.

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[Hetzenauer]

Of course not all went smooth. Here my girlfriend points out where I messed up. One of the domino holes was misplaced and I thought using brute force was the way to correct this... :'(
Smashed out a piece of the back panel, fortunately not the front. I was able to repair this later on.

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Then I rounded the edge of the front panel (which was still in one piece) on all sides using a 19 mm round over bit. Since I would not be surprised to find out MDF is the asbestos of the 21st century, I used a dust mask and routed out in the open. Since I wanted a real smooth edge, and I only got one chance to do it right,  I used both the guiderail and an edge guide with the OF1010. It also prevented me from tilting at the end of the workpiece.

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After we made the drawers out of 1/2 inch MDF and installed the full extension pull-out system, this is what it looked like. (quiz: now where did those glasses go?  :)

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I did not inform you guys on the hinges yet. We used Blum hinges and pull-out systems. These are normally used in kitchens, but can be applied on furniture as well. Blum is an Austrian company and has over 50 years of experience. Even though I am not connected whatsoever, in my opinion their products are the Festools among hinges and drawer systems. Check out their website for more details:

http://www.blum.com/us/en/01/index.php

We used 4x 120 degrees Euro Clip hinges and 2 sets of full extension, concealed drawer runner Tandem pull-out systems. Both the hinges and pull-out systems have so called Blumotion technique (see website).

Ok, back to the TV console. Once we had all parts cut, dominoed, sanded and rounded over the edges of the front panel, we could focus on what we thought was the hardest part: routing the circles for the stainless steel front inlays. However, using the MFS 400 and circle routing insert it was quite easy. With the OF1010 and a 12 mm straight bit we were able to make very accurate circles.

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We first tried on a piece of scrap MDF. The discs are 100% stainless steel and custom made. (4 mm in thickness and cut by laser).

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Then, finally, we cut the front panel into the 4 front pieces using the ATF 55 with guiderail.

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The next pictures speak for themselves. Just to give you an idea. Painting btw was a hell of job...
(The wheels under the console it were moved inwards later on)

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[Hetzenauer]

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For attachment of the drawer fronts to the drawers (the two pull-out ones in the middle) we did not use glue. Instead we used front adjustment brackets provided by Blum (nr 295.1000) Two of these per front enabled us to still have some room for movement (about 2-3 mm in all directions, e.a. up, down, left and right) while being attached. This way I could prevent the painstaking job of having to alignment of the fronts with the glue drying on me.
I routed the holes for the adjustment brackets using a 20 mm Euro-hinge router bit.

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Finally, I glued the steel disc inlays into the circles.

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At last, we placed a 4 mm glass top (AGC, Matelac, silver gray) on it. It did not require glue and has not moved ever since. Btw, the complete console is held together just by domino's. We decided not to glue so we could take it apart. This might come in handy when moving in the future.

Well, this was the end result:

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I hope I did not go into too much detail. If so do not hesitate to tell me, I will be more to the point in the future.

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Super job, Jacobus (and lady friend)!  And a well-documented photo essay, too.

I have a few questions I hope you will answer:

1)  What types and brands of paints were used?  Were primer coats required under the color coats?  (I have not worked with MDF, only solid wood and plywood in the past, and used only clear finish coatings directly upon the wood or over stain coatings.)
2)  How did you apply the paints?  The final finish coats appear to be very smooth and even.
3)  When routing the recesses into which the stainless steel disk portions are glued, did you stepwise decrease the radius setting of the MFS to work inward from the outer circle first cut?  Please further describe your technique.  I have an MFS 400/700, but have not used it for routing circles.
4)  For the Domino tenon that cracked the back piece, was the mortice on the mating part not deep enough, or were the mortices simply somewhat misaligned?  I have had a similar experience working with plywood panels when I made the mistake of inserting the loose tenon first into the face of the panel (corresponding to your back panel) rather than first fully seating the tenon into the end of the panel (paralled to the plane of such panel) to be joined to the back panel.
5)  I am not at all familiar with the glass material you used for the top.  What is the meaning of AGC?  Is that the manufacturer?  What is Matelac?  Is that the manufacturer's description of the type of glass or a coating on the glass to provide specific color and appearance characteristics?

Dave R.

 

[sw1211]

No such thing as too much detail, the more information and pictures the better. Thanks for your efforts in posting this project. Great work, you and your girlfriend have a great sense of style.  Can't wait to see your next project.

 

[Ken Slemmer]

Jacobus and Girl Friend, 

Like the effort in documenting the project details.  Makes the reader following the project involved and waiting for the next step in the project.

Keep it up...

   

 

[itshurm]

Ah, splendid job Jacobus and Judith!
And to all of you out there:  ..... I am very proud of the couple since the are my son and daughter-in-law!
I was surprised to see so much quality mastership on this site. I'll surf around frequently to enjoy all the projects.... and to vote for the projects of Jacobus P of course....

 

[Jimhart]

Very nice. Now I'm in trouble. My wife saw it and said "I really like modern design." Guess I'll have to get a few books on the subject. any ideas?

 

[honeydoman]

nice work!  I use the blum hindges all. the time for cab doors,  they work great and are easy to adjust to make the fit perfect.

thanks for posting all the detail pics.  we all learn a trick or 2.

 

[Hetzenauer]

1)  What types and brands of paints were used?  Were primer coats required under the color coats?  (I have not worked with MDF, only solid wood and plywood in the past, and used only clear finish coatings directly upon the wood or over stain coatings.)

Dave, we used 1 coat of primer (Sikkens Onol,  primer/undercoat,  NN.01.45) since MDF is a really thirsty product. Then we applied at least 5 coats of finish paint (mustardgreen on the outside: Sigma coatings, semi-gloss, color: NCS 2060-Y, and grey paint for the inside: custom made at our local paint store, not a well known brand, color NCS 8000).

2)  How did you apply the paints?  The final finish coats appear to be very smooth and even.

We did not use a spray station. The trick is not to use the paint right out of the can. We diluted it with turpentine until the paint got really thin (I do that just by looking at the paint and by feeling the resistance it produces when stirred. Probably up to around 30% turpentine, 70% paint) This way the paint will simply spread into a thin film once applied, like if it was sprayed. We applied the paint with a roller (with rounded edges to prevent stripes at the edge). Using a roller enables you to work fast which is required for the paint to fuse evenly. We sanded with p180 in between layers.

3)  When routing the recesses into which the stainless steel disk portions are glued, did you stepwise decrease the radius setting of the MFS to work inward from the outer circle first cut?  Please further describe your technique. 

Yes Dave, pretty much like you said. We first did some fine-tuning on a piece of scap MDF to get the diameter and depth just fine to fit the disc. And indeed, we worked inwards from the outside. Before you can use the MFS you first have to make a center hole 8 mm in diameter to fit the pin of the MFS. I would advice not to use a regular drill for this since the hole must exactly perpendicular to the workpiece. Therefore I used the router with a 8 mm bit to make that center hole.

4)  For the Domino tenon that cracked the back piece, was the mortice on the mating part not deep enough, or were the mortices simply somewhat misaligned?

I misaligned the opposite domino hole. So from now on, whenever I experience  too much resistence trying to fuse a board with dominos, I double check my holes for alignment and depth.

5)  I am not at all familiar with the glass material you used for the top.  What is the meaning of AGC?  Is that the manufacturer?  What is Matelac?  Is that the manufacturer's description of the type of glass or a coating on the glass to provide specific color and appearance characteristics?

Sorry Dave for the confusion here. I hope this link will clarify:
http://www.yourglass.com/agc-flatglass-europe/matelac/opaque/glazing/acide/silver-grey/grey.html

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Thanks, again, Jacobus and Judith for sharing many details of your fine project.  The additional information is much appreciated.

Jimhart,  may I suggest you hire Judith to help create the design your wife wants you to build?  With the internet, and drawing software, many things are possible!

itshurm, welcome to FOG and congratulations on your fine son and daughter in law.

Dave R.

 

[splinter]

Hello Jacobus

I love the TV console and particularly the handle detail but am curious as to how you open the doors or draws as the finger hole does not go right through..
Doesn't your fingernail scratch the painted surface?

Splinter

 

[Hetzenauer]

I love the TV console and particularly the handle detail but am curious as to how you open the doors or draws as the finger hole does not go right through..
Doesn't your fingernail scratch the painted surface?

Hi Splinter, glad you like the design! I chose not to make the fingersholes go right through since it would expose the inside of the console too much. You can however still use the discs to open the console because the metal slightly overlaps the fingerholes by approximately 5 mm. This leaves enough room for a finger to hook behind the metal and open the drawer. So far I have not seen any paint getting scratched, but its dark, so it will not show that soon either. 
Added a picture to clarify:

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