Diving in Head First

[GoingMyWay]

I finally pulled the trigger and made my first Festool purchase(s).  I bought the CT26, TS55, and I had also ordered the ETS 150/5, but it was backordered.  I think I may have lucked out that it's backordered.  I was originally planning on buying the RO150 until I saw the price so I opted for the cheaper ETS 150/5.  After some more research and soul searching, I've come back to my original conclusion that I should buy the RO150.  I had always wanted an MFT/3, but thought I'd save my money and instead I made my own tracksaw cutting station using Peter Parfitt's UJK Par Guide Drilling System.

I haven't used the TS55 yet, but I am very impressed with how nice the Systainer is.  I have a bunch of various sized Bosch L-Boxxes just for random tool/part/supply storage, and the systainer just feels "nicer" to me.  I assembled the CT26 and turned it on to see what it's like.  What can I say?  It "sucks" - LOL.  The suction wasn't as strong as I thought would be, even at full suction.  I was pleasantly surprised by how quiet it is.  The size of the CT26 is probably bigger than I'd like, but from my research it seems like it's the best all around dust extractor compared to the CT Sys, Midi, or Mini.

I plan on making end grain cutting boards with my new Festool tools.  Yes, I know it would be much easier with a table saw, planer, drum sander, and who knows what other tools, but I am hellbent on making an end grain cutting board using only a CT26, TS55, RO150, and my homemade tracksaw cutting station.

-David

 

[peter halle]

Welcome to the FOG!

You did jump in headfirst.  We can be an enthusiastic bunch here so if you have questions, or need advice or help be prepared that you much get a lot!  [big grin]

Many of our members here have your tools and use them either professionally or semi-professionally or as a hobbyist.  In the olden days the term - operators are standing by - would have been used in this situation.  We are here to assist if desired.

Peter

 

[live4ever]

Congrats!  Nice set of tools...

I think attempting to make a custom MFT is a good idea for a lot of folks.  The money just seems better spent elsewhere and you can get something that is better suited to your needs for a fraction of the cost.  And thanks to Peter's awesome system, getting an accurate top is easier than ever.  Make sure to take a look at various designs that are out there for custom MFTs.  Example, if you need portability, take a look at how Dan Pattison (MPT) or Timothy Wilmots (MFTC) have tackled that in their designs. 

I like the RO150 but for end-grain cutting boards, it wouldn't be my first choice for a handheld sander.  You want to be able to level and flatten and even a handheld belt sander (non-Festool) would be better.  Ideal would of course be access to a drum sander.  You could get a good Makita or Porter-Cable belt sander and the ETS150/5 for the price of the RO150.  I just don't see the RO as the ideal hand sander for end-grain cutting boards that might need a fair bit of leveling.  Still going to suggest finding someone with a drum sander as the best option...

 

[Birdhunter]

My headlong dive into Festool was at a Festool event at Highland Woodworking in Atlanta. Two MFTs, TS55, Domino500 set, Midi, CSX, and a RO125. Never looked back. Gave all my DeWalt stuff to a beginner woodworking friend. Bunch of other Festool purchases since. Good stuff.

 

[Holmz]

... I had also ordered the ETS 150/5, but it was backordered.  I think I may have lucked out that it's backordered.  I was originally planning on buying the RO150 until I saw the price so I opted for the cheaper ETS 150/5.  After some more research and soul searching, I've come back to my original conclusion that I should buy the RO150...

You have 30 days to return it in the US. It may be better to get both the RO and if the ETS is really an ETC/EC 150/5 then I doubt you would return that one...

 

[ear3]

Congrats, good luck and welcome to the FOG.

Not sure if you have a chance to test drive any of the sanders at a local dealer, but if you're still wavering on the sander, you might also consider looking at the ETS/EC 150/5.  I understand that for the end grain cutting boards you want something pretty aggressive, and while the ETS-EC 150/5 doesn't equal the Rotex when the latter is in gear driven mode, it still packs a pretty big punch, and in fact, comparing them apples to apples when they are operating in Random Orbit mode, the ETS-EC 150/5 actually has a faster removal rate than the RO150.  For general purpose sanding, the low profile, balance and speed of the ETS-EC 150/5 makes it, IMHO, the best overall sander made by Festool.  But you certainly can't go wrong with the Rotex, as it will serve you well as a general purpose sander from low grit to finish, and if you have tasks that will involve a lot of stripping or removal, it may be the one you need most.

 

[Wooden nickel]

Welcome,
I know you will enjoy this group.
They are active and you get responses wicked fast.
Always helpful.
I think the ones that are not professionals and as you said "jump in", tend to start with the idea of one project in mind.
But I assure you, if you have the passion as most of us do here you imagination and creativity will challenge your skills and put them to test on you work bench.
You will be pumping out tons of projects and again- this is a great group to guide you along the way.
Also ask for constructive criticism.

 

[GoingMyWay]

I like the RO150 but for end-grain cutting boards, it wouldn't be my first choice for a handheld sander.  You want to be able to level and flatten and even a handheld belt sander (non-Festool) would be better.  Ideal would of course be access to a drum sander.  You could get a good Makita or Porter-Cable belt sander and the ETS150/5 for the price of the RO150.  I just don't see the RO as the ideal hand sander for end-grain cutting boards that might need a fair bit of leveling.  Still going to suggest finding someone with a drum sander as the best option...

I do also have a Bosch router.  I have watched videos on YouTube showing how to make a sled that can be used to plane/flatten boards, but to me that process looks rather slow and tedious.  I think I may be greatly overestimating my ability to get my glue-ups fairly flat and even - hence my thinking I'll just need a "light sand" to smooth things out.

 

[GoingMyWay]

You have 30 days to return it in the US. It may be better to get both the RO and if the ETS is really an ETC/EC 150/5 then I doubt you would return that one...

The only problem I have with the 30 day return policy is that I ordered online and I'd hate the idea of having to pay the return shipping.  I have no idea how much it would cost to ship back, but sending something that heavy can't be that cheap.  In a perfect world I'd get both, but I'm really looking for "one sander to rule them all" or perhaps what realistically would be called "unobtainium."

 

[peter halle]

A few years ago I took time to do some personal woodworking.  I ended up making end grain cutting boards.  I gave them all away except for the one below.  Please note that this one is a personal size board made from scraps and intentionally cut off-kilter to play with one's eyes.

I ended up using a router sled with my OF1400 for the initial leveling and then finished off with my ETS150 working from very coarse to fine grits.  I did use a hard pad.

Peter

[attachimg=1]

 

[GoingMyWay]

That's a nice looking cutting board Peter.  I feel like a lot of people make cutting boards to use up the smaller scrap pieces of wood they have from other projects.  I on the other hand am buying would solely to make cutting boards.

Do you think the router sled made the finishing process faster/easier as opposed to just sanding?

 

[peter halle]

That's a nice looking cutting board Peter.  I feel like a lot of people make cutting boards to use up the smaller scrap pieces of wood they have from other projects.  I on the other hand am buying would solely to make cutting boards.

Do you think the router sled made the finishing process faster/easier as opposed to just sanding?

Absolutely in my case.  I was able to glue up without the worry about absolute flatness on one side and then ended up with parallel top and bottom sides.

Peter

 

[live4ever]

The only problem I have with the 30 day return policy is that I ordered online and I'd hate the idea of having to pay the return shipping.  I have no idea how much it would cost to ship back, but sending something that heavy can't be that cheap.  In a perfect world I'd get both, but I'm really looking for "one sander to rule them all" or perhaps what realistically would be called "unobtainium."

One sander to rule them all?  Clearly you don't understand Festool's approach just yet...  [eek]

Router sled is a good bet.  Your biggest problem will be cutting strips of perfectly consistent width with the tracksaw.  Trust me it's no fun trying to sand that flat! 

 

[GoingMyWay]

Absolutely in my case.  I was able to glue up without the worry about absolute flatness on one side and then ended up with parallel top and bottom sides.

Maybe I should reconsider making a router sled.  I'll need to find a relatively simple design - some of the plans I saw used plexiglass, which I don't have and I don't really want to buy.  Do you happen to remember where you got your plans?

 

[GoingMyWay]

One sander to rule them all?  Clearly you don't understand Festool's approach just yet...  [eek]

Router sled is a good bet.  Your biggest problem will be cutting strips of perfectly consistent width with the tracksaw.  Trust me it's no fun trying to sand that flat!

Yeah, I guess my cheapskate/simple approach contradicts Festool's approach.  I just realized that using cheapskate and Festool in the same sentence is probably an oxymoron.

Hmm consistent widths is going to be a problem??  I had planned to setup some kind of stop block on my custom made tracksaw cutting station.  I haven't actually thought about how it will really work - I only have the very rough high level vision of a stop of some kind in my head.  I saw a cutting board video on YouTube where they were using the waste side to make the strips because they were cutting narrow stock.

 

[peter halle]

Absolutely in my case.  I was able to glue up without the worry about absolute flatness on one side and then ended up with parallel top and bottom sides.

Maybe I should reconsider making a router sled.  I'll need to find a relatively simple design - some of the plans I saw used plexiglass, which I don't have and I don't really want to buy.  Do you happen to remember where you got your plans?

Mine was made out of scrap.  The sled itself was just a scrap of plywood with a hole drilled in it.  Mounted the router to that.  The base that held the workpiece was scrap plywood.  The runners were scraps of uni-strut screwed down.  The clamps were opposing wedges tightened and screwed down.

Nothing elegant but it worked.

Peter

 

[GoingMyWay]

Mine was made out of scrap.  The sled itself was just a scrap of plywood with a hole drilled in it.  Mounted the router to that.  The base that held the workpiece was scrap plywood.  The runners were scraps of uni-strut screwed down.  The clamps were opposing wedges tightened and screwed down.

Nothing elegant but it worked.

I see, I think I'm overthinking/over complicating the design of the sled.  I guess the key thing is that the runners or guides are exact matches that are parallel to each other.

 

[Sparktrician]

Mine was made out of scrap.  The sled itself was just a scrap of plywood with a hole drilled in it.  Mounted the router to that.  The base that held the workpiece was scrap plywood.  The runners were scraps of uni-strut screwed down.  The clamps were opposing wedges tightened and screwed down.

Nothing elegant but it worked.

I see, I think I'm overthinking/over complicating the design of the sled.  I guess the key thing is that the runners or guides are exact matches that are parallel to each other.

You might want to look through issue #222 of Fine Woodworking for an article by Nick Offerman on his design for a router sled.  You can see a photo of it here. 

 

[live4ever]

Yeah, I guess my cheapskate/simple approach contradicts Festool's approach.  I just realized that using cheapskate and Festool in the same sentence is probably an oxymoron.

Hmm consistent widths is going to be a problem??  I had planned to setup some kind of stop block on my custom made tracksaw cutting station.  I haven't actually thought about how it will really work - I only have the very rough high level vision of a stop of some kind in my head.  I saw a cutting board video on YouTube where they were using the waste side to make the strips because they were cutting narrow stock.

We are all cheapskates here.  It's just that Festool makes a lot of nice machines, and if you are trying to get one of them to do what others do even better, you're depriving yourself of the pleasure that comes from having the best tool for the job.  At least that's how they've warped my brain into thinking.  LOL.  But in all seriousness, while the RO is a really amazing and versatile sander, it's not a great finish sander compared to other sanders in Festool's lineup (ETS, ETS-ECs, RTS/DTS...).  And in woodworking, most of what you do is finish sand.  So I don't see the RO as the only sander I'd like to own.  Just my opinion of course.  It still might be the first sander for you, but it ain't gonna be your last.  [scared]

Consistent widths is no problem in theory, but it's inherently going to be less perfect than say, a tablesaw with a good fence.  On a cutting board, even one hundredth of an inch difference strip to strip will give you something that needs to be routered or sanded out.  The approach should work fine as long as you have a way to deal with any unevenness you end up with - in your case the router sled.  Or a buddy with a drum sander.  Yes, you'd be able to slowly even out the board with the Rotex, but your result is likely to be smooth but a little wavier than the dead-nuts flat you'll get with other approaches.

I don't know if this is a one-off or few-off project for you or if you plan on making a lot of these, but usually folks that make lots of cutting boards end up with a drum sander for good reason.  Oh, did I mention we're really good at spending your money here?

 

[GoingMyWay]

You might want to look through issue #222 of Fine Woodworking for an article by Nick Offerman on his design for a router sled.  You can see a photo of it here.

Thanks for that reference.  I just watched the Fine Woodworking's Tour Video of his workshop.  His big router sled is quite impressive.