DIY Kapex Trimming Attachment Ideas?
- Thread starter Axeyard
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Axeyard
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Anyway, this is what I got. Once the odd-shaped piece is made, the rest is easy. Just screw it onto the bottom of the extension arm (plywood, or any sacrificial wood) and add bells and whistles. All you really need is this piece to "lock" the arm to the Kapex.
Axeyard
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Clamp the Micro Stop to the extension. Line it up with the end of the board and clamp tightly. I used a Stop Clamp to do that, but there are many alternatives, and any clamp, or screws, will do. This is just the simplest method.
The Stop Clamp can be installed with the tightening screw on the top or on the bottom. Tidier on the bottom, but harder to reach. Just measure and mark your board, cut it a little longer, then micro-adjust until it's accurate and cut any matching boards to the same length.
The arm is very stable, in and out, especially with some weight on it, so repeat cuts are accurate. Use a height-adjustable roller mounted on an adjacent table [with roller removed] to support the extension. Everything can be stowed away in seconds, as I have very little working space available. Some right-to-left adhesive measuring tape -- maybe later. That's about it. I bet you folks can improve on this, as it's pretty basic.
The micro fence stop is a luxury feature! 
My mobile saw station shares a similar design, but executed differently:
- The wings are hooked to riser blocks that are screwed to the mobile base (a cabinet) instead of to the saw itself (ft1)
- Shop-made fence stops are used (ft2)
- The wings are supported by legs that are rested on the mobile base itself, avoiding any uneven floor issues (ft3).
When disassembled, all is left is just the saw on the castored cabinet.
My mobile saw station shares a similar design, but executed differently:
- The wings are hooked to riser blocks that are screwed to the mobile base (a cabinet) instead of to the saw itself (ft1)
- Shop-made fence stops are used (ft2)
- The wings are supported by legs that are rested on the mobile base itself, avoiding any uneven floor issues (ft3).
When disassembled, all is left is just the saw on the castored cabinet.
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Axeyard
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- Jan 11, 2010
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Well, after a couple of years of use, I've made some modifications.
I mounted the Micro Stop on a board, so that it can be moved closer to the blade for very short cuts.
The recessed tape is useful for preliminary set-ups. But mostly I'm creeping up on cuts: matching boards to something I've cut already, or fitting something into a pre-existing space, so the Micro Stop is an essential for me.
The Kapex groove is not exactly perpendicular to the "line of flow," so the extension arm will tend to skew backwards a little, making it tricky to install the tape so that it's in line with the Kapex fence.
The years go by... thanks for viewing anyway! Hope it's of some use to somebody.
[attachimg=1]
I mounted the Micro Stop on a board, so that it can be moved closer to the blade for very short cuts.
The recessed tape is useful for preliminary set-ups. But mostly I'm creeping up on cuts: matching boards to something I've cut already, or fitting something into a pre-existing space, so the Micro Stop is an essential for me.
The Kapex groove is not exactly perpendicular to the "line of flow," so the extension arm will tend to skew backwards a little, making it tricky to install the tape so that it's in line with the Kapex fence.
The years go by... thanks for viewing anyway! Hope it's of some use to somebody.
[attachimg=1]
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