Do I need a laminate trimmer?

andy5405

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May 14, 2011
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I've often thought about a laminate trimmer and have managed so far without one. My only real need is for kitchen worktops and I manage with a file. I do have a worktop job at the moment that will involve removing between 6-9 metres of factory edging which will all be replaced and edged on site.

I've done the usual thing and looked at loads of videos and different options online and I'm really none the wiser re making an informed purchase decision. The two things that concern me most are that I have read that even with a trimmer you still need to finish off with a file and that one slip can cause an awful lot of damage. When I trim these tops they will be installed and have a replacement value of £800-£1000 (plus a whole load of extra labour) so I really don't want to get it wrong.

I've looked at all the Festool offerings which are out of my price range at the moment apart from the OFK500. The Bosch, Dewalt and Makita trimmers all seem to get good reviews and are all much more affordable and maybe the direction I go in.

Any thoughts and would anyone attack the top edge of laminate trim on a super high gloss worktop with any form of laminate trimmer? Also would they be awkward to use on the bottom edge as you have to support the whole weight of the tool whilst keeping it accurately attached to the workpiece?  It is so hard to gauge what a new tool can do if you have no previous experience in a particular area.
 
Hi Andy,

As you know I do kitchens as well, I have a few laminate trimmers that I used to use in the factory but now I use the file method. Stick the laminate as close as you can to the top edge and file off the bottom and finish the top. I find this way quicker then using the trimmer. There is a lot of upkeep of a trimmer to keep it running smooth and the bearing free of glue. If the bearing sticks it will burn the laminate top.
 
Hi Andy,
    that's a questions I've been asking myself for a while. I do kitchens and use a file, like the last post I put edging close to top. Also if the edging is a lot wider than the worktop I trims its width with scissors.
  It will be interesting to see what others think. I don't know if I can justify the cost of a laminate trimmer( and space in van) compared to a file which I've had for years and does a good job.
  I would like to have a go with a trimmer to see if it saves time and does a better job.
 
i dont know anything about the file versus trimmer but if you do decide on a trimmer, i would go with a of1010 and the 90 degree piece that does the same thing. it would do the trimming and can be used for other things
 
I used to fabricate laminate tops and panels of various types years ago. Nowadays I'll do a small repair, endcaps or various things from time to time. Learning to use a laminate trimmer in the beginning with confidence was a bit scary. Obviously one wrong move and a sheet is crap. A few points from my experiences though.
- LT comes in very handy to trim close to the edge, then finish off with the file. I don't mind trimming tight depending on the material but final finish with a file makes a much nicer job.
- LT comes in handy for ripping multiple strips; my PC trimmer has a slide attachment for making rips
- LT works well and fast for going around curves, angles, etc.
- Get the smallest most comfortable trimmer you can find, doesn't need to be expensive. I have a Ryobi and a PC. The Ryobi is my go to trimmer. The PC is great but the Ryobi has always felt more comfortable in my hands. I feel confident trimming anything with it. That's the kind of tool you want.
- Get a trimmer with the holes for the edge guide rods. My Ryobi has threaded holes for rods. At one point I had made a 2x4x12" long stabilization piece. I drilled holes into the 2x for the rods to stick into and covered the bottom of the 2x with felt. Worked great for top trimming. 1 hand on the router, the other hand on the 2x holding the assembly flat to the top of the counter or panel. Worked well at eliminating the fear of angling the trimmer and nicking the laminate.
Hope that helps, Markus
 
Maybe methods are different in Europe versus North America, but I can't imagine someone here who does laminate countertops not using a laminate trimmer or a router with a laminate trimming bit.

For those who do them occasionally a router with a laminate flush cutting bit will work fine.  A laminate trimming machine is just a downscaled router with a smaller base and usually less features that allows you better balance on the front edge of the countertop and closer access to corners and obstructions.

I use a Porter Cable trimmer and prefer a bit that doesn't have a separate bearing - it is its own bearing.  I use liberal mounts of paste wax to protect the laminate.  That is an old school way of doing it.

Peter
 
If you can wait, get the MFK 700. I know its expensive but once you use it with the 1.5 offset base you will understand why I say wait. Setup properly and used in skilled hands, in my opinion, its the best router out there for edge trimming. Very low oops factor.

John
 
Peter Halle said:
I use a Porter Cable trimmer and prefer a bit that doesn't have a separate bearing - it is its own bearing.  I use liberal mounts of paste wax to protect the laminate.   That is an old school way of doing it.

Peter
We used Crisco and spray Pam!
 
They make a laminate trimming bit with a square bearing to minimize the risk of the round bit burning the surface of the edge you are routing.  I always think of ordering one a day or two after I start a laminate job

Jon
 
Jonhilgen said:
They make a laminate trimming bit with a square bearing to minimize the risk of the round bit burning the surface of the edge you are routing.  I always think of ordering one a day or two after I start a laminate job

Jon

The Eurobit.  Been there.  Done that.  Moved on.
 
Andy asks if he needs a laminate trimmer. Since I know nothing about the scope of Andy's business, how can I answer?

Since various brands of laminate became popular in the late 1940s I have made a lot of money using it. Over the past 60+ years I have used a whole lot of different approaches to trim laminate. Circa 1959 I used bits with bearings and a 1hp PC conventional router. Since then as trim routers came out I bought many.

By the time Festool introduced the MFK700 I was best known for solid hardwood edge banding. For that the MFK700 is marvelous so long as the banding is not overly thick. During the summer of 2010 I was building my new woodworking shop. For this I designed several work surfaces using laminate.

For me the MFK700 is the most effective laminate trimmer I have ever used.

Each of us needs to consider how often we do a specific task before we can logically decide if we need a specific tool. Trim routers often can be used for other tasks, but they might not be ideal. The same is true of using a 1 hp router for trimming. Holding one horizontally for a few hours usually causes the operator to find the money for a lighter trim router. I own several OF1010 but do not use them for horizontal trim routing. I also own several MFK700 and I never consider using then to drill adjustable shelf holes!
 
If you don't do laminate work, don't bother.  If you do, the MFK700 is the best there is,  and better on Formica used with the 0° base and the Amana no-file bit.  My DeWalt laminate trimmer has been relegated to trimming ceramic tile with a Roto-Zip bit. 

[smile]
 
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