Does a commerical domino glue applicator exist?

[Mettes]

Most of the time I don't put glue on the domino's. I use it mostly to built cabines and only glue the panels, the domino's are only for allignement.

When I do glue my domino's I put glue on the domino, not in the mortise. You push all the glue down and so it has little effect when you put it in the holes.
When you put glue on your domino and you drive it in the hole, the markings that are presse in the domino will retain enough glue to be effective. That is what these "arrows" are for.
When you use dowels they work the other way around. Here you put glue in the hole and when you drive in the dowel the groves make sure there remains glue on the walls or that the glue can be pushed back up.

I think that 's the reason why Festool hasn' t come out witha glue bottle. This would promote an incorrect way of applying glue.

I use a gluebot, hold the domino lengthwise between my dumb an index finger, put a dap of glue on one side and use an other domino to even it out. Then rotate the second domino and again use it to spread out. Then rotate the first and rub it against the other.
Works pretty fast, one glue spuese, two glued domino's.

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.

Another option is Titebond III.  I contacted the people at Titebond on a complex gluing project and that's what they recommended to use for a longer open time.

Mike A.

I do not use Titebond III, because it has similar open time as white glue (10 minutes), but is twice as expensive. Old brown glue or Titebond liquid hide glue is known to have some 30 minutes of open time. For large projects, I prefer white glue because old brown glue needs to be kept warm.

In my latest glue-up, I used white glue, solicited my wife's help, and it took some 45 minutes by the time I cleaned up. (When I dry fit, I did it by myself, but that was because I could spend all the time I wanted until the case was squared up, without worrying about the glue factor).

If I had used a rabbet for the back panel as usual instead of panel grooves all around, I could have clamped up the carcass, and then dealt with the back in phase two.

 

[ChuckM]

Snip

I think that 's the reason why Festool hasn' t come out witha glue bottle. This would promote an incorrect way of applying glue.

I use a gluebot, hold the domino lengthwise between my dumb an index finger, put a dap of glue on one side and use an other domino to even it out. Then rotate the second domino and again use it to spread out. Then rotate the first and rub it against the other.
Works pretty fast, one glue spuese, two glued domino's.

I would give it try next time with your one glue spread two dominoes approach.  [thumbs up]

This is what the DF manual says about gluing:

Tips for Applying Glue
There are many different ways to apply glue to joints; however, how you apply glue can have an impact on the quality of the joint or the ease of assembly.
► For a longer glue open-time on complex assemblies, apply the glue generously to the workpieces. The thicker the glue, the longer the time it will take to skin over (see image below). Excess glue can be cleaned off after completion.
Instruction Manual 19
► Apply glue to the workpiece face and the mortise slots before inserting the tenons into the slots.
► When applying glue for the tenons, you can either apply glue into the mortise slots, spread a thin layer across the Domino tenons, or both.
► When the tenon is the primary structure holding the joint together, you should apply the glue at least to the tenon (or both). The Domino tenons have small glue pockets and ridges that will hold glue as the tenon slides into the mortise slot.
► When applying glue to the mortise slot, take care not to use too much glue, as there is not enough space for the excess glue to squeeze out past the tenon.

It does seem from the above that applying glue to the tenons alone may work, though getting glue to both the mortises and tenons is never wrong.

I would put glue to the tenons only next time. Most of the times, I use dominos for structural joinery, not for alignment.

 

[mike_aa]

Snip.

Another option is Titebond III.  I contacted the people at Titebond on a complex gluing project and that's what they recommended to use for a longer open time.

Mike A.

I do not use Titebond III, because it has similar open time as white glue (10 minutes), but is twice as expensive. Old brown glue or Titebond liquid hide glue is known to have some 30 minutes of open time. For large projects, I prefer white glue because old brown glue needs to be kept warm.

In my latest glue-up, I used white glue, solicited my wife's help, and it took some 45 minutes by the time I cleaned up. (When I dry fit, I did it by myself, but that was because I could spend all the time I wanted until the case was squared up, without worrying about the glue factor).

If I had used a rabbet for the back panel as usual instead of panel grooves all around, I could have clamped up the carcass, and then dealt with the back in phase two.

[member=57948]ChuckM[/member]  I'm not sure what brand white glue you are referring to, but according to the Titebond company, Titebond III has both a longer open time and assembly time than their white glue.  I've listed the numbers and links to their website data below.

Titebond White Glue - Open Assembly Time: 5 minutes (70°F./50%RH), Total Assembly Time: 10-15 minutes (70°F./50%RH)
Titebond III - Open Assembly Time: 8-10 minutes (70°F./50%RH), Total Assembly Time: 20-25 minutes (70°F./50%RH)

IIRC, they also said that thinning the glue (I think about 5 percent) with water would also help extend the open time.  If white glue works for you and gives you enough time to do what you want and you don't need the waterproof qualities of Titebond III, then it makes sense to "stick" with the white glue.  I just thought that Titebond III is another option to consider.

Mike A.

 

[ChuckM]

I was referring to Elmer's white glue, not Titenond's:https://www.wwgoa.com/article/measuring-wood-glue-assembly-time/

I also use LV glue (15 mins), but ran out of it before my last job:http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=45104&cat=1,110,42965,45104

 

[mike_aa]

[member=57948]ChuckM[/member]  Interesting article.  Thanks for posting the link.

Mike A.