Does this Festool accessory work well (Combination Angle Unit FS)??

This is a good accessory, but accuracy lies in +/- 0.5 degree. There are number of factors such as relatively small scale, too big pointer and tiny gap between angle guide and rail itself. This tool is extremely helpful for non-square angles (i.e. wainscoting panels on stairways or other sheet meterial angled cuts). It works very well when you have to transfer angle from "real place" to sheet material. In this case you don't work with numbers on scale and "measured" accuracy is not important. Festool has a video how transfer angles to sheet material with this tool. Check videos for TS-55/75 saw and/or guide rail. For precise square crosscuts I use 12" aluminum speed square.

Regards,
Victor
 
I have one, I never used it, and I never will, its garbage >:( stay away from this one!

Mirko
 
What about you, Matt?  Do you have one?

TP

Matthew Schenker said:
Mirko,
Please tell us how you really feel!
Hey, no one can accuse us of hiding honest opinions!!
Matthew
Click to expand...
 
Hey TP,

How 'bout at least giving the name of the accessory with the link so we don't have to click the link to find out what you're talking about?

Ned
 
Ok, fine. 

It's called a "Combination Angle Unit FS."

Wow -- tough crowd!

TP

Ned Young said:
Hey TP,

How 'bout at least giving the name of the accessory with the link so we don't have to click the link to find out what you're talking about?

Ned
Click to expand...
 
For rough work, especially with the shorter rails it works pretty good.  With the longer rails the stickiness of the rail makes using it very difficult.

I'm a stickler for square being square so I never use it for final cuts.
 
Toolpig said:
What about you, Matt?  Do you have one?

TP
Click to expand...

No, I don't have one of these, and I've never tried one.
I still use a combination square, checking various spots on the cut line.
Matthew
 
Yeah -- I wondered about the "stickiness" factor.  I think I'd only use it for relatively short cuts (4-feet or less). 

I just hate having to run around to the other side of the plywood sheet with my tape measure to line up the guide rail!  I'm just lazy that way.  ;D

TP

bill-e said:
For rough work, especially with the shorter rails it works pretty good.  With the longer rails the stickiness of the rail makes using it very difficult.

I'm a stickler for square being square so I never use it for final cuts.
Click to expand...
 
I looked at John's demo before I bought the >>>>>>.  I knew that a piece of sand paper would make it work just fine.  I have tried one thin piece up to a fairly thick piece as it has been folded and refolded.  As long as I use it for marking, i suppose it might work.  For me, I have not been able to figure a way for it to hold its angle with any sort of pressure against it.  I am presently contemplating the possibilty of putting a screw into it somewhere, but I am sure that will create enough distortion that it would not be accurate.  Speaking of accuracy, somebody else has commented of the inadequacy of lining it up accurately.  That's another tale of woe.  I so far have found no reason to revise my observation of JUNK.

Sorry Festool.  It is, so far, the only really bad deal i have had with you.  Some difficulties here and there, but they have always been worked out as I learned.  This angle guide thing (I don't have the catalogue in front of me, but by now, we all know what tool we are talking about) has me beat. 
Tinker
 
I have been using the angle guide quite a lot recently. The basic concept is good but the accuracy and, er repeatability are not. As mentioned the scale is small and the slightest knock, even nudging the guide into position, can put it out of setting. Providing care is taken it is good for the unusual angles and for 'rough' cutting. Last night I laid out six 2x4s side by side and flat on my cutting table. Using the angle guide and a cutting guide I gang-cut about 100 18" pieces. Accuracy to 1/8" for this  job was not important. However it was fast.
  Not mentioned is that you need to have a sufficiently long and straight edge to use as a reference for the guide. The unit needs to be redesigned with a more secure clamping mechanism, possibly with a screw fine adjustment, plus a positive attachment to the rail. I have done the latter (I think using an idea from WoodshopDemos) with a couple of 5/16" bolts and wing nuts. That means I can pick up the rail and guide as one piece thus getting over another aggravation. This fixing in position also allows me to set enough space at the beginning of the guide for the saw to sit and start.

SteveD
 
 
I hope Festool is listening and re-designs it.  It sounds like just what I need, but I don't want to drop $70-ish on a piece of doo-doo.

TP

SteveD said:
I have been using the angle guide quite a lot recently. The basic concept is good but the accuracy and, er repeatability are not. As mentioned the scale is small and the slightest knock, even nudging the guide into position, can put it out of setting. Providing care is taken it is good for the unusual angles and for 'rough' cutting. Last night I laid out six 2x4s side by side and flat on my cutting table. Using the angle guide and a cutting guide I gang-cut about 100 18" pieces. Accuracy to 1/8" for this  job was not important. However it was fast.
  Not mentioned is that you need to have a sufficiently long and straight edge to use as a reference for the guide. The unit needs to be redesigned with a more secure clamping mechanism, possibly with a screw fine adjustment, plus a positive attachment to the rail. I have done the latter (I think using an idea from WoodshopDemos) with a couple of 5/16" bolts and wing nuts. That means I can pick up the rail and guide as one piece thus getting over another aggravation. This fixing in position also allows me to set enough space at the beginning of the guide for the saw to sit and start.

SteveD
 
Click to expand...
 
I have one, and I use it in two ways:

1) (99% of the time) I have it squared with a machinists square, and fixed in that position. I rarely
un-fix it. Occasionally I use it at 45o (again, set to a 45o machinists square).

2) for better-than-rough-but-not-perfect angle cuts, i.e. accurate for a carpenter but not a
woodworker or designer making prototypes.

It's tough for any product with arms that short and scale that small to
be accurate.

If you want accuracy over longer distances, convert your angle measurements
to XYZ (length/width, height) distance measurements on the workpiece. That
will be much more accurate in most cases.
 
minimal said:
2) for better-than-rough-but-not-perfect angle cuts, i.e. accurate for a carpenter but not a
woodworker or designer making prototypes.
Click to expand...
That describes what I meant for "rough" in my response as well.
 
The thing works a little better if you stick a lock washer in it to help hold the angle under pressure.
Slight pressure, anyway.

 
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