Domino 500 joining question

JINRO

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Dec 8, 2021
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]Hi, quick question on Domino 500 for joining two different thickness woods together.
The thicker wood is 2x4. I am trying to make hole on 2 inch surface.
Domino plate height can be adjusted I can only go so much it allows.
Is there anyway I can increase plate height? Or is there any other way I can approach this task?

*I've included picture for better understanding.
[attachimg=2]
Thanks!
 

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You reference the machine off the outside of the joint. So set it to roughly half of your thinner material then make your plunges.
 
There is a solution to this, but it takes some "outside the box" thinking".
You need to make an "adapter block" that is cut at 45 degrees and double-stick tape it to the fence of the Domino. This will allow you to register the Domino from the long point of the miter instead of the short point.
 
I would not use Dominos. I would use a spline. I told the saw blade to 45 degrees, cut a slot through each end, insert a glued spline. I use this technique for boxes. It makes a very strong joint.
 
Birdhunter said:
I would not use Dominos. I would use a spline. I told the saw blade to 45 degrees, cut a slot through each end, insert a glued spline. I use this technique for boxes. It makes a very strong joint.

It does. That works just fine, there is the issue of seeing the spline, if that is a problem?
 
I either overlay a very thin strip of the same wood over the top to hide the spline or use a contrasting wood for the spline as an accent feature. I prefer the latter.
 
Crazyraceguy said:
There is a solution to this, but it takes some "outside the box" thinking".
You need to make an "adapter block" that is cut at 45 degrees and double-stick tape it to the fence of the Domino. This will allow you to register the Domino from the long point of the miter instead of the short point.

I almost tried this :) but bit seemed to get far away from the wood too, making it shallow hole. I'll try this method and see. Thanks! :)
 
I find that the thicker the mitered/beveled shim is, the better the registration it offers against the work (on the face side), and the more accurate the machine is held at 90* to the beveled edge. I made mine out of scrap about 20mm thick.
 

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ChuckS said:
I find that the thicker the mitered/beveled shim is, the better the registration it offers against the work (on the face side), and the more accurate the machine is held at 90* to the beveled edge. I made mine out of scrap about 20mm thick.

This is brilliant. I am going to try this too! Thanks! :)
 
ChuckS said:
I find that the thicker the mitered/beveled shim is, the better the registration it offers against the work (on the face side), and the more accurate the machine is held at 90* to the beveled edge. I made mine out of scrap about 20mm thick.

That is exactly what I was talking about, but didn't have a pic to show it. Thanks ChuckS
 
guybo posted a similar photo well ahead of me. I just wanted to point out the thickness of the shim being a factor.  [big grin]
 
Every time this comes up, I think "just use the fence attachment and work off of the long point".  It takes me a while to remember that the Zeta is the one with the fence face plate that has a 45-degree detent for working off of the long point, not the Domino...  [doh]
 
The other difficulty with dominos on the long edge of the miter are twofold:

1) plunge depth.  For this, I have some custom plastic clips a friend 3d printed for me that clip on one of the domino shafts.  They are of varying thicknesses so I can plunge to shallow depths.  Doing so will keep you from plunging all the way through your material.

2) cut dominos.  Short, custom domino lengths are easy with a miter box and Japanese hand saw.  Great for dominos in thinner stock as well.  You don't get much in the way of long-grain glue strength but the alignment assist more than makes up for it.

I love Chuck's shim... great idea!
 
fraz said:
The other difficulty with dominos on the long edge of the miter are twofold:

1) plunge depth.  For this, I have some custom plastic clips a friend 3d printed for me that clip on one of the domino shafts.  They are of varying thicknesses so I can plunge to shallow depths.  Doing so will keep you from plunging all the way through your material.

[member=68884]fraz[/member] can you provide more details and maybe a photo of those clips? I think I understand, but not certain. Would love the files as well.
 
ChuckS said:
Yes, a photo or two about those clips would be nice.

I have no access to any complimentary CNC service, and use the Traxxas pre-load spacers (TRA 3769) from RCBoyz.com as clips instead of pvc tubes.

A pack of 2 (16 spacers) is about $12 Cdn these days:https://www.bigboyswithcooltoys.ca/products/tra3769-spring-pre-load-spacers-1mm-4-2mm-2-4mm-2-8mm-2

Same idea as r/c shock collars (I'm lifelong r/c racer so I prolly have all kinds of that stuff in. box somewhere).  In r/c you use clips like this for a lot of adjustments such as caster and wheelbase (smaller clips).  Ironically the toy-grade cars use clip on collars like this while the race cars are all threaded shock shafts for fine-tuning ride height.  My buddy CADed some up and 3d printed from ABS filament.  Shafts are 14mm diameter and my go-to thickness stack is 3.63mm, 3.12mm, 4.67mm, 4.15mm, 4.15mm, so roughy 19.67mm for using 5mm dominos in 12mm.  Works killer.  I will say that while other clips may work perfectly... the fit and "snap" of these are amazing.  He is a professional machinist and mold maker for a living so he gets tolerances spot on.
 

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