Domino 500 spacing question.

[Locks14]

How do you guys do multiple repeat plunges at exactly the same distance? I am making a series of 8' tall built in book cases and want to use 6mm dominos on the 18mm ply. I was hoping to put a domino every 6-8 inches.

On the 700 the pins enable me to make a plunge every few inches apart but there are no pins on the 500, and even if there were what if I wanted to do them say every six inches?

There doesn't seem to be an accessory that fits the bill to enable quick repeatable plunges at a set distance.

 

[chrisrosenb]

I believe the 498590 Domino Cross Stops do what you are wanting.

Domino Cross Stops

 

[Locks14]

Perfect!

The retailer I use who claim to stock the entire Festool range doesn't list these on their website. However, out of interest, these go to 8 1/16", what methods do people use for anything over 8"?

 

[SMJoinery]

Perfect!

The retailer I use who claim to stock the entire Festool range doesn't list these on their website. However, out of interest, these go to 8 1/16", what methods do people use for anything over 8"?

I'm old school and make a rod for this type of task. I prefer to plunge on a pencil line.

 

[Birdhunter]

I use pencil marks on both pieces to be joined. I cut narrow mortises one one side and wider mortises on the other piece. Exact and perfect positioning isn't necessary.

 

[bkharman]

I have don't this before:

Make a story stick to align the side of the Domino against. You will have to do a little math to cut it to the right length but you can do a through plunge and put a domino in to index off of. Just sand the ribs on the part you will be inserting in your workpiece. Will be a lot easier and quicker to move it in and out.

Works in a pinch to whatever distance you need!

Cheers. Bryan.

 

[Troutbum86]

Woodpecker came out with a their own version for long cross stops. http://www.woodpeck.com/ottdf500obs.html

 

[Stone Message]

Hi Lock

I know that you will really want a quick way to do this so you can get loads of boards done but I have found the Cross Stop allows too much error to creep in as you are always referencing from the last cut. I don't like using anything other than the narrow slot width and so I avoid the cross stop altogether.

A pain that it may be but the story stick and a routine of marking from it is the simplest method that will deliver the accuracy that
you need.

If I had a lot to do I would make a simple jig. I am on my laptop and cannot produce a drawing but...

Have a flat board the same length as your long pieces. It needs to be about 250 mm wide. Plant strips along the two long edges at least 4 mm thick and about 25 mm wide. These will raise the work piece up so that the Domino does not ground when making slots.

Get some blocks (say) 20 mm thick and (say) 40 mm long by 20 mm wide. Glue and screw the blocks down the centre of the board and in a dead straight line. You will use these blocks to reference the Domino against as you make the cuts. You need to mark one side of the board "A" and the other "B" and mark the reference side of each of those blocks so that all referencing is done from the same side. You will need an end stop at one end only against which your stock will be pushed.

The jig is used with your stock pressed up against the line of blocks and against the end stop. Dominos are cut by referencing against the correct side of the blocks. You will be cutting an "A" with your stock pushed in from one side and a "B" (matching pair) with the stock coming in from the other. Your stock needs to be supported at the non cutting side so that it is flat on the jig.

If your design requires some slots to be in the end grain and some in through the face of the MDF stock then you can vary the design to allow both methods from just one jig.

I am sorry that I cannot produce a diagram but I am on the wrong computer and not back at base until much later.

Peter

 

[Bohdan]

I don't use stops when the holes need to be over a long length. It is quicker and easier to put the two boards that you are going to connect together, and using a square draw a line across the joint where ever you think a domino is required. You then drill the slots as per the lines, you don't need to remember which way the boards go as you can't go wrong.

I do all of my holes on the narrow setting and find that the accuracy achieved is fine.

 

[Stone Message]

I managed to create a rough sketch of the jig suitable for end grain to face construction.

[attachimg=1]

Peter

 

[Wuffles]

I don't use stops when the holes need to be over a long length. It is quicker and easier to put the two boards that you are going to connect together, and using a square draw a line across the joint where ever you think a domino is required. You then drill the slots as per the lines, you don't need to remember which way the boards go as you can't go wrong.

I do all of my holes on the narrow setting and find that the accuracy achieved is fine.

Draw a line with a square? What are you, Australian Royalty?!  [eek]

Lucky if the naff line I draw manages to cross both parts and there isn't some head scratching going on moments after taking the two pieces apart again.

[smile]

 

[Stone Message]

Drawing the lines across both pieces is a good method but it means that for every joint the boards need to be brought together in the right spot and they also need to be kept as pairs from then on. I think Lock wants a production method that means he can just take his stock, one piece at a time, machine it and move on.

Peter

 

[Wuffles]

Drawing the lines across both pieces is a good method but it means that for every joint the boards need to be brought together in the right spot and they also need to be kept as pairs from then on. I think Lock wants a production method that means he can just take his stock, one piece at a time, machine it and move on.

Peter

I've use a story stick method before and it worked perfectly, problem (my problem) is I am often referencing against two different lengths and therefore need a datum to kick off with.

Don't ask me what I'm making. It's classified.

 

[Birdhunter]

If all the boards are the same length, the following method works for large lots of boards.

I mark one board with pencil marks at the desired spacing. I put an arrow on each pencil mark so I know the direction the mortise is to be drilled. This is master board A. I repeat the process with master board B. The pencil marks on both boards should line up. One half the remaining boards get their pencil marks (with directional arrows) from master board A and the other half from master board B. Each board gets an A or a B penciled on it.

All the A boards get a narrow mortise and all the B boards get a wider mortise.

This goes fast and produces no errors and the boards don't have to be isolated.

 

[Tayler_mann]

A good ruler and pencil works far better than the guides I have found. Measure out 200mm make a mark and so on down the mating boards. Another good rule is the woodpecker T-square or the incra. I can lay out and domino mark I need with those at a quick, precise and efficient manner.

It really all comes down to personal preference though.

 

[Stone Message]

I think that if you have a whole library to do (or whatever secret project Lock is working on) then it might be better to have a mass production approach - I would use a jig so that no measuring is required.

Peter

 

[grbmds]

How do you guys do multiple repeat plunges at exactly the same distance? I am making a series of 8' tall built in book cases and want to use 6mm dominos on the 18mm ply. I was hoping to put a domino every 6-8 inches.

On the 700 the pins enable me to make a plunge every few inches apart but there are no pins on the 500, and even if there were what if I wanted to do them say every six inches?

There doesn't seem to be an accessory that fits the bill to enable quick repeatable plunges at a set distance.

Is there a reason you must have the Dominos spaced exactly the same distance apart? I have not found any reason to make sure the spacing is that accurate. As long as you mark the boards to be joined together and use the correct face or edge to make the plunges, it shouldn't matter if they are exactly the same distance apart unless you are doing through Dominos as part of the design. Maybe I'm just misunderstanding your question.