Domino Alternative

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Steve F

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Feb 21, 2010
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I am about to make my first (and probably only) coffee table from a pair of 8/4 book matched walnut slabs and have a question about gluing the slabs together.  This project is the main reason I bought my TS55, Rotex 150, and ETS150 - to joint the edges, flatten the top, and finish the surface.

But I seem to missing a tool.  In a perfect world, I realize that I need a Domino to complete the job properly. But it's not a perfect world and a Domino's not in the budget right now.  I assume that I need something other than glue to keep the two halves connected to each other and was wondering if there is an inexpensive alternative.  I don't want to waste the money on a cheap mortiser, because I do want to be able to buy a Domino eventually.  Ideally, I would love to do this with hand tools or some inexpensive mortising jig.  I know that it will take a lot longer than with a Domino and that the alignment will not be as precise, but can't I just cut mortises into the edges and use hardwood domino-like tenon inserts? 

Thanks for the help.

Steve
 
You may want to take a look at Classic Joints with Power Tools.

+1 on the spline and a lap joint might be the way to go.  I assume from the question that you have a router.  If you have a good table or some sort of precision guide either of these joints will work.  As will the LV "floating tenons" will save some time; realize that using a simple router or even table will require some pretty fussy measurements and trial fit it does work.  I use Titebond III glue and have been happy with it.  Chamfer the motrise shoulders so you don't get squeeze out.

Overall If you can make the spline that will be easier.  A blind floating spline might be best but that depends on what you have.  You can use the LV tenons as a floating spline.  After all a floating spline is just a long tenon installed sideways.
 
Option A. Since you have been bitten by the festool bug, and intend to get a domino in the future, maybe if you are honest with your local dealer he will let you borrow a domino for the job and then return it? I am not suggesting anything unethical about buying it and returning it, but since you intend to buy one at some point perhaps he will let you demo it at home for a couple of days.

A spline would be my option B.

Option C. If your edges are properly true, you don't need any sort of tenon to go between the two halves. With strong clamping pressure and good glue coverage, the bond will be strong enough. After all this is a long-grain to long-grain bond. The domino in this situation would be more for alignment purposes than strength.

 
If the edges are straight, nothing else is needed -- edge -to-edge gluing provides more than enough strength.

Scot 
 
Scott nailed it.  No need for dominoes.  Just be sure the pieces are flat and square.  Place the clamps nicely lined up to avoid a twist.  Keep a big hammer and a caul to bang on if needed.  If its not going together accurately, loosen the clamps and fix it.
 
I use the domino for alignment puposes just like the plate joiners, it's the glue that does all the work...
 
Where in NJ do you live?  I have a domino and would bring it by for you to use if your close.
 
Steve F said:
I am about to make my first (and probably only) coffee table from a pair of 8/4 book matched walnut slabs and have a question about gluing the slabs together.
Click to expand...

It may not help you with this project, but have you thought about a pocket hole jig? When I first started as a hobbyist, I bought a Kreg K4 Pocket hole jig, and for 99 bucks, it has been excellent. It comes with a dust extraction port, which I  hook up to my CT; I also use a corded high speed drill. Someone with more knowledge (and sense!) than I have can tell you if this is acceptable for a finer piece like the one you are about to make. I have a Domino now, but I still like to use the pocket screws in lieu of clamps when it's not objectionable visually. Hope this helps, and good luck.
 
As was already proposed, just glue it.  It's long-grain to long-grain and doesn't need anything else.  Something else might help with alignment if you can't handle the slab alone.
 
I think the OP needs to find a buddy with a domino or a helpful dealer!  Looks like he's already has an offer...
 
zapdafish said:
I have been considering this as an alternative

bridgecity drilling jig
Click to expand...

This item is availble for PRE order.  That means you don't get it until they have enough orders to do a run.  They say delivery is expected in March 2011.  With BCTW, you may need to add a few months to that.  They make FANTASTIC tools, if you have the patience to wait for them.  I finally received my JMPv2, a few days shy of 1 year after ordering it and giving them a deposit.  But it is great, worth the wait!
 
A pocket hole jig is not going to help much, as it will not provide the clamping pressure needed for this application.  As others have said, the domino only helps with alignment in this type of joint, a good edge glue joint provides all the necessary strength.

Just make sure you have the clamps ready and a straightedge handy while clamping to check for flatness.  A rubber mallet is handy for alignment as well.
 
Wow!  Amazing feedback . . . and a very generous offer from vwdave.  I have seen the LV tenons before (I have the catalog memorized) but forgot about them. 

I was actually more worried about strength than alignment.  I need to do the final flattening after glue-up, so that should resolve any imperfect alignment.  It sounds like the consensus is that the Domino won't add strength, so I will probably just trust the TB III.

I never thought about using my Kreg jig for this because of the ugly holes.  But if they're on the underside, I could probably hide the holes with the base.

Kevin, I am concerned about your comment that the pocket screws won't provide enough clamping pressure.  Because I'm trying to salvage some of the edges, clamping is going to be a challenge.  I was hoping for something to help pull the two pieces together.

Much appreciated.  Thanks again,

Steve
 
my numbers could be way off but I believe even standard yellow construction glue has a holding power of something like 75 to 100 lbs per square inch. A well jointed edge to edge glue up should be fine. For more beef and essentially more glueing surface ad a spline, I'm sure it's stronger than Dominos anyway, not taking a jab at the Domino it's a fantastic tool, but there was a world of woodworking before them.
 
The edge to edge glue up is an OK way to go.  But it is much less than 1/2 the strenght of M&T (domino) or a spline.  I haven't tested strenght of a domino against a spline.  The domino and spline joints are stronger than hickory, the wood broke aside from the joint when under test.

As for biscuits they are so so for ply but don't add strenght.

As for screws and pocket hole they are not real good and don't last.  I just got a second job restoring a circa 1950± dresser and side table.  The screwes caused a lot of damage and I had to replace them with dowels. 
 
grobin said:
  But it is much less than 1/2 the strenght of M&T (domino) or a spline. 
Click to expand...

I am curious where you got this information from? 

As for the pocket screws, their clamping force is significantly less than what can be achieved with pipe clamps.  The strength of your glue up is going to be determined by the quality of your clamp job much more than any joinery made.

Unless you are keeping a natural edge I would keep your panels oversized then trim them to size once the glue dries.  I generally add 1/2" in width and at least 2" in length.
 
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