Domino DF500 Accuracy/Alignment Issues

I've ripped 2 strips 4" wide and about 4' long.  This is the last of the excess material I've laying around and don't want to waste it in case I need to exchange for another Domino and test it.  That said, should I crosscut these to the longer sections like I was doing or just make little 4" x 6" blocks with 1 domino?
 
Since you’re experiencing the same issues with the 500 that you encountered with the 700 machine there is most likely some operator error. If you could make a video of what you do someone might spot something you could correct and then get good results.

Until you get comfortable using the machine only use work pieces that are big enough that you can secure them to the workbench independent of the machine. Hold the machine in place on the workpiece by applying pressure to the fence with one hand after pushing the front of the tool snug against the work while balancing the machine with the other hand. Then plunge slowly.

The fence (or Seneca plate) should always be registered to the top of the work so you can see that the surface is clean and debris free.

There is a small issue with the fence. It’s secured by only one post and often the mortise is slightly out of parallel with the wood surface. That is a problem when only one Domino is used. Simply use a minimum of two Dominos and the two pieces of wood will be coplanar and flush.
 
Bugsysiegals said:
I've ripped 2 strips 4" wide and about 4' long.  This is the last of the excess material I've laying around and don't want to waste it in case I need to exchange for another Domino and test it.  That said, should I crosscut these to the longer sections like I was doing or just make little 4" x 6" blocks with 1 domino?

Leave them long. Put the two strips together and strike two marks across both pieces a few apart. Make the mortises and put two Dominos in and push the strips together.
 
I've cut 4 pairs of boards and should have time to test the Domino again.  Would you recommend I plunge horizontally with the material over the edge of the MFT/3, vertically with the material clamped to the MFT/3 (perhaps can help to rule out horizontal movement of the DF 500), or a mix of both?

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I'd do the tests in the same way or ways that I'd use to cut the mortises in the future. If you plan to use different methods, then test them in those different methods.
 
I didn’t see this in the posts and it might be obvious, so don’t offense. Verify that you are assembling the joint with reference faces - on the same side if joining two pieces horizontally such as when you glue up boards edge to edge to result in a wider board and
- the reference faces assembled correctly as mortised for butt joints or face frames.

The only alignment I have ever had with my Domino have been my fault through not holding the Domino without movement while plunging, accidentally raising or lowering the back end while plunging, referencing the base rather than the fence, or inadvertently cutting the slots using the wrong reference face on one board or assembling the boards using the wrong reference side on one board.

I have made these mistakes at least once each and have made one of them more than once on a day when I wasn’t concentrating or just being a little impatient.
 
Thanks and yes I’ve made lines across the faces I’m joining, plunging those lines with the cursor aligned to them, and assembling back together the same way ... no offense taken ... you can’t tel what somebody’s doing on the other side of the internet.

I’ve made a video of me setting up and plunging the first set of boards which I’m uploading and will share shortly ... one side is near perfect while the other is slightly off ... hopefully you can see if I’m doing anything improperly and if not I’ll move onto some more tests with the results.
 
Here's photo's of the boards before the test where you can see one end is near perfect and the other with wood "hang nail" is slightly out of flush.

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Here's the video of me using the Domino DF 500.  BEWARE: Please turn down the volume when I'm plunging so you don't blow out your eardrum ... This is straight off my GoPro Hero 7 and I'm not sure how to edit video ... what do you use for editing video's to lower volume during these spots in the video?

Festool Domino DF500 Accuracy Test

I've used a piece of paper on my screen at the base of the Domino as a visual reference guide to see how much the Domino is moving during the plunge.  Do you agree with my analysis?

Plunge #1 - This plunge seems to have only a minor vertical change throughout the cut.
Plunge #2 - This plunge seems to have a minor vertical lift at the beginning with more near the end and some drop on the release.
Plunge #3 - This plunge seems to have only a minor vertical change throughout the cut.
Plunge #4 - This plunge seems to have only a minor vertical change throughout the cut.

Besides plunge #2, is the vertical movement acceptable or do I need to have even less vertical movement on # 1,3, and 4? 

Besides being more aware of my need to continue holding firm after plunging, is there any technique for releasing which has least chance to move vertically and create misalignment? 

Besides thinking my Domino is a cordless tool, do you have any other critique to improve for test #2?

And finally, here's the result ... even with the movement seen above, the end which was perfect before the test remains the same and the one with the hang nail of wood is still the same ... I thought it would bring it flush but perhaps is from the vertical movement ... nonetheless, it's probably fixable with a light sanding so I'd consider acceptable and will hopefully improve as I learn to hold more steady ...

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A weird thought, but are you moving from your shoulder/arm or from your hip?  If you are in fact lifting, you might try letting your body move a little more with the plunge and see if that helps. If you're experimenting, it might be worth trying.
 
At 5:33 (your last cut -- #4), you were not using the paddle to register your stock as you did in other cuts!
 
ChuckM said:
At 5:33 (your last cut -- #4), you were not using the paddle to register your stock as you did in other cuts!

I did not use the paddles on any plunges as they’re misaligned.  I’m using the plastic cursor which needs slight adjustment also but is much closer than the paddles.  That said, the reference lines were close to the edge and the pin was just on the edge of the wood so it probably looked like I was using it ... good eye!!
 
mrFinpgh said:
A weird thought, but are you moving from your shoulder/arm or from your hip?  If you are in fact lifting, you might try letting your body move a little more with the plunge and see if that helps. If you're experimenting, it might be worth trying.

I’m using my wrist and pushing from my elbow/shoulder I guess but not my hips.
 
If it was me, I’d return the tool for a new one. My very first cut with the 500 was perfectly aligned vertically and horizontally. Given the cost of a Domino it should be perfect out of the box. When I bought the 700XL the fence was out of alignment. I returned it within 30 days and the new one yielded a perfect cut the first time. My point  is that the Domino should not present the problems you’re having. If you have problems with the second one it’s most likely your technique.
 
I know you checked pieces for square with each other did/could you do this with a true square on a flat reference table like a table saw?

Do you have a dial indicator on a base that you could measure the offset of the surfaces?

I've been using a track saw and table saw for many years and found especially if you don't use use the tools every day you need to make test cuts to make sure the cuts are square.
 
Mike Goetzke said:
I know you checked pieces for square with each other did/could you do this with a true square on a flat reference table like a table saw?

Do you have a dial indicator on a base that you could measure the offset of the surfaces?

I've been using a track saw and table saw for many years and found especially if you don't use use the tools every day you need to make test cuts to make sure the cuts are square.

I assume when you say checking for square you’re referring to my analysis of whether the pieces are flush after joining?  If so, I do have a magnetic dial indicator and can set the pieces on the table saw and use it. Let me know if you meant something else ...
 
Suggestion -- One last check (I think you've done enough test cuts):

Lock the fence somewhere in the middle at right angle, check if the bottom side of the fence is parallel to the base of the machine. If it's, something could be wrong of the cutting action itself. Send the machine to Festool for investigation.
 
I would send it in to be checked.

The whole idea of the Domino is that it is quick and simple to use.

You should be able to just set the height and depth then plunge away without even thinking about it.

I would guess the fact that you are struggling with it means there is something wrong with it.
 
I assumed it’s the machine but as somebody else pointed out, since I had the same issue with my DF 700, that it’s likely me ... based on the video, and the slight movement I have, is it me?
 
Practical Advice - Return the tool and get a replacement.  Even if it could be racked up to operator usage, after trying for a couple of weeks to work this out you will never have faith in your edition of this tool.

Not dissing you at all.  Just passing on my observations after watching the forum from a different point of view of many.

Peter
 
Don't know if this will help but you could try a different grip on the Domino.

I have always used mine by holding it around the handle much closer to the front then most people recommend, I wrap my hand around the handle and push with the side of my thumb and forefinger against where the handle stops and the motor housing starts. Feels to me that is how it's designed to be used.

Always used it like this and never had a problem. It was on this site where I first saw people talking about pushing from the very back, when I try that I generally get some vertical movement.
 
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