Domino DF500 imperial mod better than Seneca domiplate?

[Gerald Yang]

First I do not have a domino but considering getting one. kinda doing the research now.
from all you guys mentioned Seneca domiplate for imperial lumber like 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch boards is a great option, but I do not feel I need such a big plate to fix this simple problem.
And I found this video, what do you guys think? looks like I can just 3d print this gauge from any 3d print shop around and make the domino imperial. maybe cost CAD$10 max.
=9s&ab_channel=ToolCurve

 

[4nthony]

First I do not have a domino but considering getting one. kinda doing the research now.
from all you guys mentioned Seneca domiplate for imperial lumber like 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch boards is a great option, but I do not feel I need such a big plate to fix this simple problem.
And I found this video, what do you guys think? looks like I can just 3d print this gauge from any 3d print shop around and make the domino imperial. maybe cost CAD$10 max.
=9s&ab_channel=ToolCurve

The problem isn't imperial vs. metric. The Domiplate will prevent what's known as fence drift by adding an immoveable fence set to a predefined depth to the Domino.

The Toolcurve part is just a new board thickness gauge that uses imperial measurements rather than metric. It doesn't address the issue of fence drift.

They both use imperial measurements, but they are very different products. You can also get metric Domiplates.


This video is from 2011 and features the original version of the Domiplate, but usage is the same.

 

[Birdhunter]

You have received excellent advice above. I bought an aftermarket Imperial height stop, used it a couple of themes and went back to metric.

The Domiplate is an excellent product, but I seldom use it. I find its best feature is that I get a more solid grip. Its worst feature is that I have to use the Domino upside down.

What I find is that solid wood and plywood are seldom exactly true to nominal thickness. It is not necessary to place the mortise exactly in the center of the board. Close to center is very often good enough. What is critical is to always work of the same reference surface and to have the Domino fence snugly tightened.

I suggest buying the Domino, watch a lot of usage videos, practice on scrap, and then see if you need accessories. I also suggest you buy the tenon and cutter assortment kit. It is a real bargain. An extra 4mm cutter is a smart buy. These little cutters are the most likely to bread.

 

[xedos]

Gosh , I’ve never experienced “fence drift” on my domino ever.  Or my biscuit joiner for that matter.

Yours is defective , mis-adjusted, or your technique is flawed. 

 

[Birdhunter]

I’m a very experienced user of the Domino machines. That means I have made every possible mistake.

If you don’t snug the fence tightened enough, the fence can move. This can happen if the handle on the fence tightener needs to be repositioned.

The effect is that the mortises “march” downward over the length of the board. Very embarrassing. Fortunately, glueing tenons into the bad mortises fixes the error. I have a collection of halftenons to go into the wider bad mortises.

 

[4nthony]

Gosh , I’ve never experienced “fence drift” on my domino ever.  Or my biscuit joiner for that matter.

Yours is defective , mis-adjusted, or your technique is flawed.

As is also the case with washing machines, just because you're not experiencing a certain behavior doesn't mean that behavior does not exist.

 

[ChuckM]

Fence drift did happen, but only to the earlier machines, and has been fixed when Festool released the later units, one of which xedos probably owns (and so do I).

It may still happen as Birdhunter pointed out if the individual user doesn't lock the fence properly. But it is no longer a problem due to the machine itself (other than those older ones), it'd be a user error.

The domiplates may be of appeal to those who build things exclusively with 1/2", 3/4", etc. ply, but not so much to an average user building with lumber materials of all kinds of thicknesses. I don't have the gadget, and it'd be extra work for me to switch between using the machine upright as designed for one project, and upside down for another. By sticking to one way of using the machine, I develop familiarity and efficiency.

 

[rubber_ducky]

Fence drift did happen, but only to the earlier machines, and has been fixed when Festool released the later units, one of which xedos probably owns (and so do I).

It may still happen as Birdhunter pointed out if the individual user doesn't lock the fence properly. But it is no longer a problem due to the machine itself (other than those older ones), it'd be a user error.

The domiplates may be of appeal to those who build things exclusively with 1/2", 3/4", etc. ply, but not so much to an average user building with lumber materials of all kinds of thicknesses. I don't have the gadget, and it'd be extra work for me to switch between using the machine upright as designed for one project, and upside down for another. By sticking to one way of using the machine, I develop familiarity and efficiency.

As an owner of an older df500 (pins not paddles) I can’t help but wonder what early units means. Any idea how the issue was fixed? I imagine with a replacement locking lever.

I have experienced drift, but I don’t use the machine often enough to confidently say it wasn’t due to operator error

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ChuckM]

The fence drift or creep seemed to be a discussion item in the early years:

https://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?pretty;board=festool-tool-problems;topic=domino-design-flaw.0

I have no idea if it was a problem specific to certain DF500 with pins.

If a tightened locking lever doesn't seem to provide enough purchase, the screw can be backed out, and the lever re-positioned.

 

[cpw]

The domiplate is helpful not just for centering, or fence drift; but for being able to have a good reference edge in either 90 degree position; I find it much nicer than the included support bracket for those operations.  If you're not using plywood, then it isn't helpful, but for carcass construction it is a great accessory.  Without the domi-plate, I tend to try using the base of the machine and it's 10mm offset if possible to align the machine.  It is very precise, has no drift; and you can put things in the middle of a board as long as you have an appropriate stop clamped in place.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

The domiplate is helpful not just for centering, or fence drift; but for being able to have a good reference edge in either 90 degree position; I find it much nicer than the included support bracket for those operations.  If you're not using plywood, then it isn't helpful, but for carcass construction it is a great accessory.  Without the domi-plate, I tend to try using the base of the machine and it's 10mm offset if possible to align the machine.  It is very precise, has no drift; and you can put things in the middle of a board as long as you have an appropriate stop clamped in place.

I do the same thing (reference off of the base) whenever possible.
I don't have a Domi-plate and don't see the need.
The Self-Centering guide that seems to have never re-appeared? would be nice though